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Discussion Starter #1
Planning on replacing the stock BOSE sub with an aftermarket sub and amplifier. So far I've only been able to find a Kicker Comp 07C104 10" 4-ohm subwoofer from Crutchfield http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2067C104/Kicker-Comp-07C104.html?tp=111 Looks like this one should fit in the rear shelf nicely. Great sale price on this sub right now too. The RMS rating is a bit lower than I would like but anything should be better then the BOSE sub. Any other recommendation on a 10" free air sub that will fit on the rear shelf? Perhaps one that can handle a bit more power. I've never used a free air sub before so I'm hoping this will give the sound system a bit of bass improvement.
 

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Thanks for the response. How much material of the ID did you have to remove and was your method of removal? I looked at your stats and saw another member had a similar question regarding your set-up. If you don't mind, I'll send you an E-mail and I would like to see your pics and wiring diagram as well. Particularly interested on how you spliced into the power wiring going to the fuse boxes under the rear seat for amp power. This should save me time on running wire all the way to the battery. I'll be using the DavidNavone LOC as well so hopefully the amp install should be a breeze. Just gotta find a 12v accessory trigger somewhere near the trunk so I don't have to mess with pulling the head unit.
 

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Well damn. Can't find the Infinity 1040W sub any where. It's been discontinued. Looks like I'll have to do settle with the Kicker Comp for now.
 

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You'll want a summing device instead of a regular LOC.. Try the JL Audio Cleansweep or the MTX RE-Q (or the Q5; get the Q5 if you ever plan to replace the door speakers). When you turn up the volume, both the head unit and the Bose amp mess with the sub channel. You don't want that in an aftermarket setup.
 

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I have a LOC and it works fine. I have a remote gain for the subwoofer amp so I can adjust sub volume wherever I like.
 

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Well damn. Can't find the Infinity 1040W sub any where. It's been discontinued. Looks like I'll have to do settle with the Kicker Comp for now.
I have a 10" Kicker Comp sitting in my attic in the box. If you want it I could let it go very cheap plus shipping. I will warn you though that I pulled it out of my wife's expedition after about 2 weeks because it suuucked. It was in a small box so maybe free air it would do better but I was not impressed.
 

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I have a JL Audio W6V2 in place of the factory sub. It is not open air though. It's in a box that bolts right up to the rear decklid. Sounds great. If you decide to go closed enclosure, it's a great sub to choose. I have 500 watts going to it through a JL amp, all through the factory nav unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You'll want a summing device instead of a regular LOC.. Try the JL Audio Cleansweep or the MTX RE-Q (or the Q5; get the Q5 if you ever plan to replace the door speakers). When you turn up the volume, both the head unit and the Bose amp mess with the sub channel. You don't want that in an aftermarket setup.
Thanks for the advice. I didn't even think about the head unit and Bose amp messing with the sub channel especially since I was planning to just tap the LOC to the two wires going into the Bose sub. Didn't really want to make a big investment on the sub set-up so the Cleansweep will not be in the budget. I think an amp with a remote gain control should be tolerable.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have a 10" Kicker Comp sitting in my attic in the box. If you want it I could let it go very cheap plus shipping. I will warn you though that I pulled it out of my wife's expedition after about 2 weeks because it suuucked. It was in a small box so maybe free air it would do better but I was not impressed.
I plan on stopping by a couple local shops that will let me listen how a freeair sub sounds like. I am a bit worried that the Kicker Comp may not be the best to use but I am just looking for a little improvement for now. At least I can get the amp installed and upgrade the sub if it sucks that bad. I may get back at you when I decide to buy. PM me your selling price anyway.
 

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I have a JL Audio W6V2 in place of the factory sub. It is not open air though. It's in a box that bolts right up to the rear decklid. Sounds great. If you decide to go closed enclosure, it's a great sub to choose. I have 500 watts going to it through a JL amp, all through the factory nav unit.
Do you have any pics of your set-up? Interested to see the size of the enclosure and how it's bolted up to the rear decklid.
 

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I have a JL Audio W6V2 in place of the factory sub. It is not open air though. It's in a box that bolts right up to the rear decklid. Sounds great. If you decide to go closed enclosure, it's a great sub to choose. I have 500 watts going to it through a JL amp, all through the factory nav unit.
damn, i was second inline for this system.:crybaby: we need a Jersey meet so i can hear that thing bump:bighead:
 

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Do you have any pics of your set-up? Interested to see the size of the enclosure and how it's bolted up to the rear decklid.

I don't have pictures of it up yet. The box hangs down just a few inches. You can see it from the rear when you open the trunk. Same reason I'm trying to practically give the factory Bose sub away I yanked out in its place. I'll take a few pics of the box/amp when I get a chance. Only pain in the ass is the cutting thats involved to fit a 10 inch sub into an 8 inch sub spot :helpless:


damn, i was second inline for this system.:crybaby: we need a Jersey meet so i can hear that thing bump:bighead:

The guy I bought it off of (Russel) in central Jersey said there was another Jersey guy real interested in his setup too. Guess I must have gotten in contact with him JUST before you did :rolleyes:. Sorry man! But yeah, when we all get together you can check it out. It sounds infinitely better than that Bose sub and is one of my favorite mods thus far :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Did some research on the MTX RE-Q. For $129 that's actually an affordable summing device. Thinking about using it instead of the DavidNavone LOC. Any one else using the RE-Q? I was looking at the install sheet and wondering if I can just wire in the sub +/- inputs and not the left/right inputs since I only need to use it for my sub amp. Here's the sheet. http://www.reqsound.com/manual/MKC002562_re-Q_Installation_sheet.pdf
 

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Are you planning on using an amp to power it? I was told the sub will fry the factory amp :hmm:
 

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so if go with the REQ, not Q5, I can utilize just the sub part of the device?? add a separate sub amp and whatever sub i can fit in the deck?? keep the factory amp running door speakers for now. sounds too easy
 

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so if go with the REQ, not Q5, I can utilize just the sub part of the device?? add a separate sub amp and whatever sub i can fit in the deck?? keep the factory amp running door speakers for now. sounds too easy
Yes, but if you ever want to replace the door speakers I'd go with the Q5. It's only a few bucks more and will make life much easier when do you replace those door speakers.
 
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