I had my gear replaced in the steering unit on the ATS-V. The service involved 2 full days and a part of another. They had to drop some of the suspension to access the gear. They did an alignment and provided me a great service loaner XT5 fully loaded. Beautiful car. I told them to check the fluid in the battery and the battery needed replacement under warranty. The car drives perfectly, just like it previously did. It's interesting that GM sent me a bulletin in the mail and stated they didn't know when the part would be available. They haven't contacted me to say the parts are available. I'm glad I reached out to my local dealer about this. If you haven't received a recall notice, it would be wise to contact your local dealer about this. If the part fails, the steering will be extremely heavy and may cause you to lose control; thus causing an accident. I would like to know if anybody else has had this done.
Recall on steering unit
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
I have an appointment Tuesday to have this done (And transmission looked at). I had to move it back to make sure I got a loaner, I'm glad I did after hearing how long it took yours! I didn't think it would be that involved. I'll post after its done...
While trying to look up more info on this, it looks like the recall only affects 2017 ATS models. But 2016 and 2017 CTS models.
Https://repairpal.com/recall/19V086000
Https://repairpal.com/recall/19V086000
That's interesting considering the recall says it doesn't affect 2016 models. And that doesn't sound similar to the amount of work OP head done to his.
Thats exactly what I received, 2016 ATS-V sedan and it mentioned replacing some bolts...
There are two different bulletins and two different rack issues.
TSB/recall #1 is that the motor can separate from rack due to bolt corrosion. TSB is to remove and replace the old bolts with new bolts, and then wax coat the new bolts and seam between the motor and rack, or replace the rack if any bolts have already broken and can't be removed.
TSB/recall #2 is that the electrical connector for the torque sensor on the rack can become intermittent or fail, leading to loss of power assist and an warning message on the dash. Sometimes a ignition cycle clears the problem for a bit since the connector can be intermittent. Fix is to replace the rack.
Both have breakouts by VIN # and not all cars are affected.
Not sure why it took the dealer 2 days to fix the OP's car unless they were really busy or didn't have all the parts on hand when they started the job; the TSB shows 2.8 hours labor time for a rack replacement on the V.
TSB/recall #1 is that the motor can separate from rack due to bolt corrosion. TSB is to remove and replace the old bolts with new bolts, and then wax coat the new bolts and seam between the motor and rack, or replace the rack if any bolts have already broken and can't be removed.
TSB/recall #2 is that the electrical connector for the torque sensor on the rack can become intermittent or fail, leading to loss of power assist and an warning message on the dash. Sometimes a ignition cycle clears the problem for a bit since the connector can be intermittent. Fix is to replace the rack.
Both have breakouts by VIN # and not all cars are affected.
Not sure why it took the dealer 2 days to fix the OP's car unless they were really busy or didn't have all the parts on hand when they started the job; the TSB shows 2.8 hours labor time for a rack replacement on the V.
'16 ATS-V MT6 Sedan, Alfas: '67 Duetto, '84 GTV6 3.5L 24v/Vette C5 project
Joined
·
550 Posts
'16 owner here and had the bolts replaced. Immediately noticed a 'clunking' sound coming from the front left suspension anytime encountering bumps. Scheduled a visit with the dealer within a couple weeks of this happening - and they 'found nothing'... concentrating on my aftermarket Renick anti-sway bar system - "no cluck when we remove that swaybar down link." Scheduled ANOTHER appointment after learning they had not removed the sheer stiffening plate... and they said 'that the inspection would be billed.' I had a track date coming up, and agreed... got the car back... they charged an hour's time... said 'tightened up all suspension and steering linkage bolts' and sure enough, the clunking was gone! Damn it! It was their work on the TSB that had caused the issue, as I had originally suspected. But I let it go, didn't call them on it... but may later on during a more hairy/controversial/expensive issue.
Right now, its just a tad bit of $$$ in the goodwill/favor bank.
Right now, its just a tad bit of $$$ in the goodwill/favor bank.
in order to build a good working relationship with a dealership it's important to let them ever win every now and then. As long as it's not too costly let them know that you're not just coming here to complain and analyze everything that they do.
Joined
·
170 Posts
They did the TSB on my car when it was in getting the coolant system filled and bled. I’ve noticed since I’ve gotten it back that the steering hasn’t felt as tight.
Also yesterday I started it up to back out for a wash really quick and there was no power assist for about 3 seconds. This has never happened before and it makes me wonder what’s changed.
I think all they did was change out bolts and put the wax on.
I’ll make an appt next week to have them check it. 2016 V
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also yesterday I started it up to back out for a wash really quick and there was no power assist for about 3 seconds. This has never happened before and it makes me wonder what’s changed.
I think all they did was change out bolts and put the wax on.
I’ll make an appt next week to have them check it. 2016 V
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Joined
·
170 Posts
I made an appointment for next week. I’m not sure if it’s the same thing as you but my steering definitely feels vague and not as tight. I’ve also just noticed that the lane keep assist isn’t as strong as it used to be.
That stuff coupled with the momentary loss of power when I started up last week makes me think something is up.
The only thing changed has been that bolt replacement/wax coating TSB.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My 2016 wasn't on either of the recalls either, although certain 2016's were subject to the recalls.
It's not a year by year recall-- it's a recall by affected VIN. Chances are there were multiple lot numbers of hardware and only a few bad lot numbers were affected, and they're looking up serial number traceability and issuing the recall only for those cars which received bad parts.
In an age of being able to easily barcode everything with traceability and data storage being as cheap as it is, it's much more cost effective to query the production and part history database and issue a recall only to the affected cars that received the bad parts, rather than issue a much more costly "blanket" recall that covers an entire production run when only some of the cars in that production run are affected.
Of course, this all assumes that the supplier didn't fudge their paperwork and traceability history...
It's mostly for the '17s, whether ATS or V. The CTSs are '16s and 17s. Mine is in the shop now, and they are waiting for parts.
My car has been in the shop for a week. They called and said it was ready. I asked about the recall, and they said they didn't do it because there isn't a remedy yet. I got my OnStar diagnostic report coincidently and checked the recall status, and it indeed states "remedy not yet available."
Since some people have had this done, I need a little help. My recall is listed as GM# N182182760, and NHTSA # 19V086, dated Feb 07, 2019. If this is the same as yours, does your paperwork give the codes for the repair? If so, I can try to get my car fixed while it's there. I suppose they may be rolling it out slowly, but that really makes no sense. If your recall has a different recall #, then I guess I'll just have to wait. Thanks in advance for anyone's help.
Since some people have had this done, I need a little help. My recall is listed as GM# N182182760, and NHTSA # 19V086, dated Feb 07, 2019. If this is the same as yours, does your paperwork give the codes for the repair? If so, I can try to get my car fixed while it's there. I suppose they may be rolling it out slowly, but that really makes no sense. If your recall has a different recall #, then I guess I'll just have to wait. Thanks in advance for anyone's help.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
