Reassembled engine, no start, cam phaser clicking

Ditto on what Bill said above and props for your perseverance!

By next stupid question as I start putting back all the smaller bits: There is a tube nipple on the driver's side of the coolant outlet (just under the throttle body) I know a tube needs to go from there to somewhere, but I'm not spotting where that tube should be going. Can anyone let me know what that is supposed to be going to? (My guess is that tube is connected to the other end, but the open end isn't currently visible.)

SvdSinner said:

By next stupid question as I start putting back all the smaller bits: There is a tube nipple on the driver's side of the coolant outlet (just under the throttle body) I know a tube needs to go from there to somewhere, but I'm not spotting where that tube should be going. Can anyone let me know what that is supposed to be going to? (My guess is that tube is connected to the other end, but the open end isn't currently visible.)

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Glad to here you are making progress, keep us posted

SvdSinner said:

By next stupid question as I start putting back all the smaller bits: There is a tube nipple on the driver's side of the coolant outlet (just under the throttle body) I know a tube needs to go from there to somewhere, but I'm not spotting where that tube should be going. Can anyone let me know what that is supposed to be going to? (My guess is that tube is connected to the other end, but the open end isn't currently visible.)

Click to expand...

Found it. It tees into the same pipe that goes along the top of the radiator just to the side of the air cleaner. As expected, I had just tucked the end of it away so it looked like it was connected to something.

Still sounds pretty ugly. I think one of the belt pulleys (one of the tensioners or the idler pulley) must've had it's bearing seize up and sounds pretty awful. I apparently also broke one of the seals on the lower camshaft actuator and it is leaking oil there. (Sadly, I had an extra from the timing kit but I can't seem to find it.)

I have to stop for the night because the battery is dead. It was near the end of it's life, and while doing compression testing I stupidly left it overnight on my 100 amp charger, er, um, -maybe- twice . . . Nothing like overcharging a battery for hours and hours to kill the last 5-10% of life it had in it.

Looking at it again tonight, things got worse. Whatever is wrong with the engine isn't reviving.

Long said:

Ditto on what Bill said above and props for your perseverance!

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I don't know if I deserve props. The engine was running terribly. My guess was that one of the bearings dried up while it sat, or perhaps some grit got into something.
I bit the bullet on ordered an engine off of EBay that I am going to swap in.

SvdSinner said:

Looking at it again tonight, things got worse. Whatever is wrong with the engine isn't reviving.

I don't know if I deserve props. The engine was running terribly. My guess was that one of the bearings dried up while it sat, or perhaps some grit got into something.
I bit the bullet on ordered an engine off of EBay that I am going to swap in.

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Props just the same.
Perseverance takes many forms.

agreed...good luck with your car

Bill

The more I think about it, I think something internally caused excess friction. IOW, the original overheating event wasn't related to the timing components, but the excess friction of whatever let go inside the engine. (Blaming the timing components that I knew needed to be replaced seemed like a good assumption at the time. ) I plan on doing a tear-down on the old engine to find the cause, but my guess is that I will find some sort of a spun bearing. Maybe a rod bearing.
On that note, if anybody has any need for engine parts, let me know. I'll happily sell any of the good parts for the cost of shipping.
My other silver lining: I've always wanted to get into aluminum casting, and between the block and the aluminum heads, I'll have more high-quality aluminum to melt down and cast into something else than I could've ever wanted.