[scanssystems]

Hello everybody!
Please, don't be mad at me by saying about similar threads. I looked lots of them but still have questions. Sorry.
My rear suspension makes me feel like I'm driving a dump truck: each hole, each bumps, each road crack I can FEEL and HEAR by shaken back of the car interior, wheels and stuff in the trunk. Front one is superior. But back one.. I own that Cad for 4years/40k miles and have same picture: as I just described earlier PLUS my rear wheel clearance way higher than front, so the car like front tilted, also I have weird buzzing in the rear section of the car. As far as I found out this is a pump for shocks and it is actually doesn't make any difference in the car. So, it can be bad shocks or lines. Am I right? But still, back right of the car is not acceptable in any way.
What should I do? What will you suggest? I found so many choices! (Monroe vs AC Delco) so I don't know what should I pick! Some stuff called "conversion kit" - what the hell is that and for?..
How to put the pump back to life... and do I need it?

So far I found these:

http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-90007-Rear-Strut-Assembly/dp/B0047DDB70/ref=au_pf_ss_3?ie=UTF8&Make=Cadillac%7C46&Model=DeVille%7C406&Year=2001%7C2001&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive - conversion kit

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-504-547-Shock-Absorber/dp/B0012PTAJY/ref=au_pf_ss_3?ie=UTF8&Make=Cadillac%7C46&Model=DeVille%7C406&Year=2001%7C2001&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive - I see it very popular

http://www.amazon.com/Gabriel-49228-Hijackers-Air-Shocks/dp/B000DINHMW - some Gabriel stuff which appears to be the same as AC Delco according to reviews...

http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-MA822-Max-Air-Shock-Absorber/dp/B000C55T7W/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Make=Cadillac%7C46&Model=DeVille%7C406&Year=2001%7C2001&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive - some one mentioned these in one of the threads


I need very smooth ride. 98% of time I drive alone in the car w/o luggage.

So, please, help me and thank you for your time!

 

[SGWORLDWIDE]

Here we go again :stirpot:

 

[scanssystems]

Help! :bigroll:

 

[basscatt]

Hello everybody!
Please, don't be mad at me by saying about similar threads. I looked lots of them but still have questions. Sorry.
My rear suspension makes me feel like I'm driving a dump truck: each hole, each bumps, each road crack I can FEEL and HEAR by shaken back of the car interior, wheels and stuff in the trunk. Front one is superior. But back one.. I own that Cad for 4years/40k miles and have same picture: as I just described earlier PLUS my rear wheel clearance way higher than front, so the car like front tilted, also I have weird buzzing in the rear section of the car. As far as I found out this is a pump for shocks and it is actually doesn't make any difference in the car. So, it can be bad shocks or lines. Am I right? But still, back right of the car is not acceptable in any way.
What should I do? What will you suggest? I found so many choices! (Monroe vs AC Delco) so I don't know what should I pick! Some stuff called "conversion kit" - what the hell is that and for?..
How to put the pump back to life... and do I need it?

So far I found these:

http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-90007-Rear-Strut-Assembly/dp/B0047DDB70/ref=au_pf_ss_3?ie=UTF8&Make=Cadillac%7C46&Model=DeVille%7C406&Year=2001%7C2001&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive - conversion kit

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-504-5...r=2001|2001&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive - I see it very popular

http://www.amazon.com/Gabriel-49228-Hijackers-Air-Shocks/dp/B000DINHMW - some Gabriel stuff which appears to be the same as AC Delco according to reviews...

http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-MA822-...r=2001|2001&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive - some one mentioned these in one of the threads


I need very smooth ride. 98% of time I drive alone in the car w/o luggage.

So, please, help me and thank you for your time!

----------------
OK - FIRST - forget the dumb poll -
if you need new rear shocks - the Monroe MA822 is the best one -
BUT THAT IS NOT THE PROBLEM -
---------------------
I would be willing to bet money that the exhaust valve -
part of the air compressor assembly - is stuck closed -

that is why the rear of the car is sitting too high -
and it is also the reason the car rides so hard in the back -

fix/replace the air compressor - and the problem will be solved -

check for codes - I expect to see a code related to the exhaust valve -

----------

Here we go again :stirpot:

----------------
no - actually he has a legit question/problem -
but it's NOT the rear shocks -

carefully read his post again -
look for and understand the symptoms -

THEN form your diagnosis and offer a cure -

 

[scanssystems]

Thank you basscatt!
No codes for exhaust valve - never showed up during my 4 years. Is it not repairable? Just replaceable? It buzzes..

----------

Any idea about full name or item number?
You said repair... Did you mean take it apart?

 

[MoistCabbage]

This doesn't have to be a poll.

If I'm understanding you correctly, the rear of the car is HIGHER than the front, correct? In that case, the problem is TOO MUCH air in the ELC system, not a leak.

The ELC compressor exhaust valve may be faulty. Go to the top of the FWD Deville/Fleetwood page, and read the "sticky" thread on how to pull codes. List any codes you may find, AND THEIR DEFINITIONS, here (there's a link within the sticky with code definitions).

Oops, I was too slow.

 

[SGWORLDWIDE]

Hello everybody!
Please, don't be mad at me by saying about similar threads. I looked lots of them but still have questions. Sorry.
My rear suspension makes me feel like I'm driving a dump truck: each hole, each bumps, each road crack I can FEEL and HEAR by shaken back of the car interior, wheels and stuff in the trunk. Front one is superior. But back one.. I own that Cad for 4years/40k miles and have same picture: as I just described earlier PLUS my rear wheel clearance way higher than front, so the car like front tilted, also I have weird buzzing in the rear section of the car. As far as I found out this is a pump for shocks and it is actually doesn't make any difference in the car. So, it can be bad shocks or lines. Am I right? But still, back right of the car is not acceptable in any way.
What should I do? What will you suggest? I found so many choices! (Monroe vs AC Delco) so I don't know what should I pick! Some stuff called "conversion kit" - what the hell is that and for?..
How to put the pump back to life... and do I need it?

So far I found these:

http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-90007-Rear-Strut-Assembly/dp/B0047DDB70/ref=au_pf_ss_3?ie=UTF8&Make=Cadillac%7C46&Model=DeVille%7C406&Year=2001%7C2001&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive - conversion kit

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-504-547-Shock-Absorber/dp/B0012PTAJY/ref=au_pf_ss_3?ie=UTF8&Make=Cadillac%7C46&Model=DeVille%7C406&Year=2001%7C2001&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive - I see it very popular

http://www.amazon.com/Gabriel-49228-Hijackers-Air-Shocks/dp/B000DINHMW - some Gabriel stuff which appears to be the same as AC Delco according to reviews...

http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-MA822-Max-Air-Shock-Absorber/dp/B000C55T7W/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Make=Cadillac%7C46&Model=DeVille%7C406&Year=2001%7C2001&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive - some one mentioned these in one of the threads


I need very smooth ride. 98% of time I drive alone in the car w/o luggage.

So, please, help me and thank you for your time!

Okay first RELAX :thepan: lets make this as clear and simple as possable as its been gone over many times your DHS model deville uses regular passive shocks (Rear) and struts (Front) the (DTS model deville uses active and very expensive shocks and struts) thats what those (Conversion kits your refering to are for so dont worry its not for your car) the monroes are a great replacement choice, next that buzzing sound is a compressor that keeps the rear of the car level it is important to have it working or your rear end is going to look like its bottomed out, when u replace the rear shocks they need to be capable of using the compressor air lines as not all rear shocks are compatible, the monroe MA822 is corrrect for the rear of your car and will keep the rear level :thumbsup:

 

[MoistCabbage]

scanssystems, you need to know what the problem is before you can fix it. When is the last time you pulled your codes?

When do you hear the buzzing, and how long does it last? Any ELC related codes should disable the pump.

Okay lets make this as clear and simple as possable as its been gone over many times your DHS model deville uses regular passive shocks (Rear) and struts (Front) the (My DTS model deville uses active and very expensive shocks and struts) the monroes are a great replacement choice, next that buzzing sound is a compressor that keeps the rear of the car level its is important to have it working or your rear end is going to look like its bottomed out, when u replace the rear shocks they need to be capable of using the compressor air lines as not all rear shocks are compatible, the monroe MA822 is corrrect for the rear of your car and will keep the rear level :thumbsup:

The rear is stuck UP, there is NO LEAK, the problem is NOT leaking shock bladders.

 

[scanssystems]

I'm going to pull them tomorrow and will post WITH THEIR DEFINITIONS BECAUSE NOBODY REMEMBER THEM :thumbsup:

----------

Well, as far as I can see the ELC compressor is quite expensive thing.. maybe I should stick to conversion...

 

[MoistCabbage]

Well if YOU can memorize several thousand definitions by tomorrow, I'll be impressed...

 

[scanssystems]

MC, that was just a joke. :thumbsup:

 

[SGWORLDWIDE]

Its hard to tell what he wrote as it sound just like another shock replacement question, it would be helpful for him to measure how high the rear is up aswell, my car and others im sure somtimes have a staggered look where the front looks tilted from the rear pumping up, personally i like the look :bouncy: thats what im understanding his question is

----------

I'm going to pull them tomorrow and will post WITH THEIR DEFINITIONS BECAUSE NOBODY REMEMBER THEM :thumbsup:

----------

Well, as far as I can see the ELC compressor is quite expensive thing.. maybe I should stick to conversion...

$200 off the arnott website OEM overstock

 

[MoistCabbage]

Well, as far as I can see the ELC compressor is quite expensive thing.. maybe I should stick to conversion...

A new compressor can be bought for a little over $200. Conversion kits are not recommended.

Your stock coil springs are soft, to provide a comfortable ride. Because they're soft, any extra weight in the car will cause the rear to sag, and bottom out over larger bumps. That is the reason for the ELC system. It inflates the bladders integrated into the rear shocks, when needed, to maintain ride height.

A conversion kit, uses a stiffer, auxiliary coil spring in the shocks. This keeps the rear from sagging (though not completely), but also creates a harsher ride.

 

[scanssystems]

I see it now. Well, will keep it original in this case.
Back to ELC.. we're talking about replacement here... but what about repair? Any chances? May be it need clean up? Teared apart and "washed"?

 

[basscatt]

Thank you basscatt!
No codes for exhaust valve - never showed up during my 4 years. Is it not repairable? Just replaceable? It buzzes..

----------

Any idea about full name or item number?
You said repair... Did you mean take it apart?

-------------------------
the exhaust valve is an integral part of the compressor assembly -

you can't buy the exhaust valve -
but you may be able to take the compressor apart -
and clean/fix it yourself -

it would be much easier simply replacing it -
with either a new - rebuilt - or good used unit -
-----------------
there IS one other possibility - although a slim one -
the LEVEL CONTROL SWITCH could be defective -

View attachment 104979

it is fairly easy to test the switch -
it is located near the right rear wheel -

the switch is bolted to the frame -
there is a short rod that connects to the switch -
the other end connects to the control arm -

to test the switch -
with the car sitting on the ground -
reach in and pop off the rod - AT THE CONTROL ARM -

turn the ignition key ON - do not start the engine -

wait 2 full minutes -

now pull the rod DOWN - this simulated a very high rear end -
and should signal the exhaust valve in the compressor to open -
if it does work - you should hear air escaping - and the rear end should drop -

next push the rod UP -
this simulates a low rear end -
and should signal the compressor to start and raise the rear end -

try this and report your findings -

in the mean time -
you could remove one of the air lines - from one of the rear shocks -
that will allow the air to escape from the overinflated shocks -
then put the air line back on - DON'T LEAVE THE AIR LINE OFF -

this way the car will ride like it should until you fix the problem -

 

[scanssystems]

How can I do it on the ground with wheels on? How can I reach that rod if wheel covers everything? How can I pop off the arm if it is unreachable? I just can't imagine it with wheel on..

 

[basscatt]

Okay first RELAX :thepan: lets make this as clear and simple as possable as its been gone over many times your DHS model deville uses regular passive shocks (Rear) and struts (Front) the (DTS model deville uses active and very expensive shocks and struts) thats what those (Conversion kits your refering to are for so dont worry its not for your car) the monroes are a great replacement choice, next that buzzing sound is a compressor that keeps the rear of the car level it is important to have it working or your rear end is going to look like its bottomed out, when u replace the rear shocks they need to be capable of using the compressor air lines as not all rear shocks are compatible, the monroe MA822 is corrrect for the rear of your car and will keep the rear level :thumbsup:

----------------------------
DHS model deville uses regular passive shocks (Rear)
and struts (Front)
TRUE -

the (DTS model deville uses active and very expensive shocks and struts)
ALSO TRUE -

thats what those (Conversion kits your refering to are for
FALSE - the Monroe 90007 is a rear coil-over shock -
it uses a very stiff coil spring wrapped around the shock -
rather than the air bladder -

it's a poor solution to a completely blown ELC system -
------------------------------

you need to understand the problem -
before you can offer a solution -

here are the SYMPTOMS I picked up -

My rear suspension makes me feel like I'm driving a dump truck.......

PLUS my rear wheel clearance way higher than front,
so the car like front tilted..................

ANALYSIS
rides like a truck - ass end sits high -

DIAGNOSIS
the ONLY thing it can be - overinflated rear air shocks -

SOLUTION
defective level control switch - OR
stuck exhaust valve in compressor assembly -

----------

MC, that was just a joke. :thumbsup:

--------------------
YES - we understand - and it was a GOOD joke -:histeric:

----------

How can I do it on the ground with wheels on? How can I reach that rod if wheel covers everything? How can I pop off the arm if it is unreachable? I just can't imagine it with wheel on..

-------------------
I said it was FAIRLY EASY - not REALLY easy - :bouncy:

the bottom of the rod and where it attaches to the control arm -
are a ball-and-socket joint -
the end of the rod has the socket -
and there is a ball bolted to the control arm -

if you can't get to it laying on your back - under the car -
you might need to jack it up - remove the right rear wheel -
pop off the lower end of the rod -
put the wheel back on the car -
THEN conduct the test -

 

[Ranger]

I just installed a set of MA822's on my car. Easy direct fit and it rides like the factory shocks.

 

[scanssystems]

Basscatt! You will be surprised! I don't have that one! Just holes! AAA! What's going on?!

 

[Ranger]

I think you where on the wrong side.