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2007 DTS Performance 52k
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Good Evening everyone,

Going to replace my rear shocks this weekend. Purchased Monroe Ma822 as everyone seems to like them. However, I have the magnetic suspension currently. I know without using some sort of resistor in the plug, I will get a dash message. My Question: Where is the plug for the rear shocks on a DTS? I saw a video of the strut removal procedure. Showing there is a plug in the trunk that goes into the top of the strut. Is this the only plug for the strut? Or is there another one hiding on the outside somewhere? Also, what is the best resistor to get to fool the computer?

Seen a lot of people talking about the older style deville dts, but not the 06+ newer.

Thanks for the help as always!
 

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Administrator
2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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The suspension data cable has a jack that plugs into the top tip of the shock rod. You need to cut the 2-wire cable - leaving enough at the jack to attach it again later - if someone wants to restore the suspension to stock. The resistor jumps the 2 wires in the harness together. Insulate well.

The resistor used is about a 3 Ohm, 5 or 10 Watt power unit. (MRC requires more current than the old CVRSS systems)

You should really replace all 4 corners - front struts and rear shocks - with passive units, otherwise you'll have a severe suspension control imbalance.

Here's your MRC shock - the blue protective cap is for the electrical connection.

DTS MRC shock.jpg


Because you will have seriously degraded the suspension performance you should so inform a prospective buyer or trade-in effort - your car will no longer be a "DTS" Performance. Your original MRC suspension uses inputs from roll, pitch, yaw, desired turn radius, actual turn radius, engine power, vehicle speed, gear selection, ambient temperature, braking effort, other stuff. You will defeat all that control.
 

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2006 DTS perf
2006 DTS Performance Lux III
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1,040 Posts
The suspension data cable has a jack that plugs into the top tip of the shock rod. You need to cut the 2-wire cable - leaving enough at the jack to attach it again later - if someone wants to restore the suspension to stock. The resistor jumps the 2 wires in the harness together. Insulate well.

The resistor used is about a 3 Ohm, 5 or 10 Watt power unit. (MRC requires more current than the old CVRSS systems)

You should really replace all 4 corners - front struts and rear shocks - with passive units, otherwise you'll have a severe suspension control imbalance.

Here's your MRC shock - the blue protective cap is for the electrical connection.

View attachment 578101

Because you will have seriously degraded the suspension performance you should so inform a prospective buyer or trade-in effort - your car will no longer be a "DTS" Performance. Your original MRC suspension uses inputs from roll, pitch, yaw, desired turn radius, actual turn radius, engine power, vehicle speed, gear selection, ambient temperature, braking effort, other stuff. You will defeat all that control.
I agree. I installed all oem suspension components to keep the magnetic ride stock on my Performance. The price for the parts have come down a lot.
 

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2007 DTS Performance 52k
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81 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I agree with you both. If money was no object I would replace with oem. But realistically, the car needs a half case reseal, mechanic stated about 20hrs. (At CT labor rates of $105), not including parts. Water pump is leaking. (again), as well as the oil filter adapter (again). I definitely don't mean to neglect the car, (kept up with fluid changes, belts, hoses, etc.) Thousands in receipts the last couple of years. But since I only drive it a few miles once a week or so now, I can't justify $600.00+ for rear shocks right now.

I know the right rear shock is leaking but not completely blown. (Compressor kicks on every 20 minutes or so when at a stop light). Never have any rear seat passengers in the car, or weight in the trunk. (Car also doesn't sag) Front struts are original but not leaking and are not clunking.

I did not know about all the electronic communication between all four corners. Am I better off leaving the struts alone, given how little I drive it? The rear shocks I can handle myself, the fronts I would need the mechanic to do as I don't want to mess with the springs.

As always thanks for the opinions.
 

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2011 DTS Base
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75 Posts
rval2, I understand your logic. I have a threshold amount of money I'll spend on used car repairs before I put it on the chopping block. I would say that if this is a car you don't absolutely rely on then your logic is sound. But if you're a 1 car family and the repair costs exceed your threshold it might be time to look for another car. Car problems don't get better (or cheaper) by themselves.
 
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