[sstressfl]

40,000 miles, factory bumper to bumper warranty still good! My car would overheat while parked and idling. I discovered the radiator fan would not come on. Radiator fluid was low. I pulled plugs and found it was running very rich. I took it to the dealer, and this is what they found...

 

[Long]

Refreshing to see someone reporting a positive dealership experience!

 

[sstressfl]

Refreshing to see someone reporting a positive dealership experience!

They killed it! They are a new Caddy dealership, making a good name for themselves. I was told the owner has a Blackwing

 

[TwiceHorn]

CPO warranty? Or aftermarket?

 

[sstressfl]

CPO warranty? Or aftermarket?

The car was at a dealership for 3 years with 3000 miles on the odometer. Then sold “new” to a guy who drove it for 1 year (traded it for a Ford Explorer). Then I bought it with 17k on the odometer. Factory bumper to bumper warranty is still in effect. Plus the drivetrain. Maintenance. Pretty crazy.

 

[jayoldschool]

Remember, your warranty is from the "in service" date, not when the guy bought it "new".

 

[sstressfl]

Remember, your warranty is from the "in service" date, not when the guy bought it "new".

Yeah they got all that tied to the VIN. Even the local dealer seemed surprised that it was fully covered. Thankful for it!

 

[TwiceHorn]

It seems that "loaners," "demos," and some other "courtesy" vehicles can avoid an in-service date until actually sold into consumer use.

One of our local dealers used to provide cars to a PGA golf tournament. They were only driven over a week during the tourney. They'd have 100 or so miles on them, couldn't be sold as new, and were often a pretty decent deal.

 

[Etilley]

Thanks for posting! I was curious what this issue was. I don't know about you, but I always enjoy getting my car back after having it serviced. After I was hit several years ago in my CTS, I was given a Camry as a loaner. The Camry was over 13 years newer and I still preferred my car to it by a WIDE margin. Granted, the manual transmission in mine might have had a thing to do with it.

 

[jayoldschool]

It seems that "loaners," "demos," and some other "courtesy" vehicles can avoid an in-service date until actually sold into consumer use.

Only for so long. If they sit at the dealer long enough, the in service is forced on it.

 

[sstressfl]

Just an update on my ATS drivetrain noise and shudder. Trans is better. Rear end is making noise now (at least I think it’s the rear end). Under warranty so I dropped it off a few days ago. Here’s the update. Hope you’re all safe and in good health! Happy election results day(s)!

 

[SaveTheManuals]

I'll have to check out your rear diff video, because unless I was looking at mine incorrectly it looks like the fill bolt is barely above the drain bolt annnnd that confuses me. Seems like the fill would have to be on the top of the housing, but then it would also be harder to see/reach. I just don't understand how you can check the fill level via the fill bolt if it's that low. To my knowledge, the correct fill for the diff, is to actually fill it up, which I've read equates to about 1 quart. Anyway, like I said, I'll watch your video and learn something haha.

I hope they identify the issue on your car and get it fixed properly. In case you're interested to know, when I had my axle seals replaced at 44k miles, my dealer did what they told me was a "B&M Service" (guess B&M is the brand of fluid), that qualified me for a warranty on the diff since I got it in for service before a certain mileage. If it ever fails I will have $2000 of the total repair sum paid for, with me responsible for any remainder. But this may also mean I have to keep it serviced by them on a certain interval for the warranty to remain valid, I need to check that. They said there was an earlier mileage that if I had got it in by, I would be eligible for $4000 worth of coverage. Anyway something to possibly inquire about. Either way, hoping I never have to use that!

 

[rand49er]

Following.

 

[sstressfl]

I'll have to check out your rear diff video, because unless I was looking at mine incorrectly it looks like the fill bolt is barely above the drain bolt annnnd that confuses me. Seems like the fill would have to be on the top of the housing, but then it would also be harder to see/reach. I just don't understand how you can check the fill level via the fill bolt if it's that low. To my knowledge, the correct fill for the diff, is to actually fill it up, which I've read equates to about 1 quart. Anyway, like I said, I'll watch your video and learn something haha.

I hope they identify the issue on your car and get it fixed properly. In case you're interested to know, when I had my axle seals replaced at 44k miles, my dealer did what they told me was a "B&M Service" (guess B&M is the brand of fluid), that qualified me for a warranty on the diff since I got it in for service before a certain mileage. If it ever fails I will have $2000 of the total repair sum paid for, with me responsible for any remainder. But this may also mean I have to keep it serviced by them on a certain interval for the warranty to remain valid, I need to check that. They said there was an earlier mileage that if I had got it in by, I would be eligible for $4000 worth of coverage. Anyway something to possibly inquire about. Either way, hoping I never have to use that!

It specs 1 liter. Make sure you don't overfill it or you'll be replacing your seals in no time The rule with any rear end is to fill it until you see the fluid spill out of the fill hole. That's how you know you're done.

And btw, any dealership can create their own programs and incentives. The one you described sounds likes a good one, but you're probably right that it ensures that they "own" the maintenance of your car. But that's ok as long as they truly honor their agreement with you. And I hope you never have to use it as well

To date this Cadillac dealership has been amazing. And their warranty work ties back to Cadillac corporate. Caddy makes the final call on whether or not they are willing to pay for it. I am praying that the parts they replace (if necessary) don't fail again in the same way once I'm out of warranty. My experience with cars tells me that there are always a % of failures. Many on this forum have not had the same issues and continue to drive for many many worry free miles. Sometimes you win. Sometimes you lose. And if you read the forums for ANY car on the market today.... it's usually filled with people like me sharing their troubles. It doesn't mean it's a bad car. It just means that mass production is mass production and subject to a certain % of failures. What matters to me mostly is how the manufacturer treats its warranty issues. And so far, Cadillac is winning me over.

 

[jeffbazell1]

Just an update on my ATS drivetrain noise and shudder. Trans is better. Rear end is making noise now (at least I think it’s the rear end). Under warranty so I dropped it off a few days ago. Here’s the update. Hope you’re all safe and in good health! Happy election results day(s)!

I meant to ask you, have you ever changed the front diff? I tried but couldn't budge the fill plug. I'll try again with a breaker bar.

 

[jeffbazell1]

Just an update on my ATS drivetrain noise and shudder. Trans is better. Rear end is making noise now (at least I think it’s the rear end). Under warranty so I dropped it off a few days ago. Here’s the update. Hope you’re all safe and in good health! Happy election results day(s)!

I admire the fact that you refuse to settle. A car this expensive should run as close to perfect as possible. When something doesn't 'sound' right, and you trust your instincts, then yes, it needs to be fixed. Sometimes it's the nature of the beast that things are noisy but these ATS's were designed with meticulous specs and something as mechanical as a differential should be the least of our concerns. It should run right.

 

[rsingl]

Jeff,
Try again after driving when the diff is warm which may help break it loose. If you can get an impact on it, that will probably work better than than a breaker bar at persuading it to break loose.

It was probably tightened too much initially. I have purchased three GMC pickups with 6.6L Turbo diesel engines and each one has required my large set of filter wrench pliers to break loose the factory oil filter because they are put on ridiculously tight. It does run up to 120 PSI oil pressure but it doesn't need to be put on by King Kong at the assembly plant. One of my colleagues found that his dealership changed the oil twice but left the original filter (with its original factory paint mark) in place because they couldn't budge it and didn't bother to tell him, he found out when another dealership changed the oil while he was traveling and wanted to know why the oil hadn't been changed since new with 18,000 miles on the pickup. They recognized the factory filter

Rodger

 

[jeffbazell1]

Jeff,
Try again after driving when the diff is warm which may help break it loose. If you can get an impact on it, that will probably work better than than a breaker bar at persuading it to break loose.

It was probably tightened too much initially. I have purchased three GMC pickups with 6.6L Turbo diesel engines and each one has required my large set of filter wrench pliers to break loose the factory oil filter because they are put on ridiculously tight. It does run up to 120 PSI oil pressure but it doesn't need to be put on by King Kong at the assembly plant. One of my colleagues found that his dealership changed the oil twice but left the original filter (with its original factory paint mark) in place because they couldn't budge it and didn't bother to tell him, he found out when another dealership changed the oil while he was traveling and wanted to know why the oil hadn't been changed since new with 18,000 miles on the pickup. They recognized the factory filter

Rodger

Don't you love it when King Kong does the work? Seems like 'kids' under 25 trying to prove how strong they are, or just plain ignorance. No need to tighten so much.

 

[sstressfl]

I meant to ask you, have you ever changed the front diff? I tried but couldn't budge the fill plug. I'll try again with a breaker bar.

I have not but it looks a little awkward. Will plan on it in the Spring perhaps.

 

[Buffmaloney]

Just an update on my ATS drivetrain noise and shudder. Trans is better. Rear end is making noise now (at least I think it’s the rear end). Under warranty so I dropped it off a few days ago. Here’s the update. Hope you’re all safe and in good health! Happy election results day(s)!

I have a 2013 3.6 Performance with just over 112,000 miles. The rear diff is making that same noise. Having trouble finding someone that can fix it. The local dealer doesn't show parts available. Makes no sense. As it is now, the car is just sitting in the driveway.