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If carefully extracted/drilled, it is possible to replace the bleeders.

Though, the caliper costs are so inexpensive on these cars its probably worth just buying and installing new calipers.
 

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Make sure there is no leaks. Clean off any fluid from past work / bleeding.
If not already check under wheel cylinder & dust boots for leakage.
Doesn't hurt to look for leaks in the back of the master, but it still could be dry and bad.

If the master was run empty then bleed the master cylinder first.
Then bleed the rears.

Which someone holding the brake pedal, make sure all 4 wheels are locked up and hold locked up.

I would bleed the fronts also. A cheat would be to crack the brake hose at the caliper.
It wouldn't get the fluid out of the caliper which is the most extreme temp area, but it's better then nothing.

Again if the ABS is not functioning I believe it could cause you bleeding problems.
And if the brake system was ran dry but still used, seals in the master / ABS seals could have been damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Yes, will replace the both calipers some day. The problem is not there. Will get a repair kit for the master and see what happens. Much easier and faster than replacing two front calipers. I do not have a helper and do not need one. )) Thank you for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Just want to show a convenient location to cut and double flare rear brake lines. Sorry for the quality of the picture, but it gives an idea about the location (you see the left shock), I hope. Will take a picture of the front junctions when I have a chance.
IMG_20190831_165551.jpg

IMG_20190513_201331.jpg
 

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You need to bleed all four. If the bleeders are broken on the front calipers, you need to replace the calipers. You will need to bleed the fronts anyways when/if you replace/rebuild the master. Stop trying to not bleed this properly. Take a step back, take our advice.

1. Replace front calipers. They are SOooooo inexpensive at any parts store.
2. Get a helper and bleed all four properly.
3. Evaluate and determine if problem is fixed (likely), or, if you need to check master (maybe).

You didn't drive it with no rear brakes for a couple months... right??
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
I want to thank everybody for advice. If it's indeed air (wherever in the system), the symptoms should not get worse. If they do, I will know the master cylinder needs my immediate attention. Do not get me wrong, I am not ignoring all good advice coming from you, I just have very limited resources nowadays (including time and health) so that convincing myself to do something that my gut feeling tells me will make no difference is very, very hard. Thanks again, gents! If I find out something worth posting, I'll do.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
UPDATE. After driving for a while, the softness is gone about 80%. I do not need to adjust my braking habits since the car stops just fine. The only way it could improve, as I see, the trapped air found eventually its way out of the master cylinder into the reservoir.
So, Jayoldschool was right - it never got into ABS unit despite the rear brake lines were disconnected from it briefly. I was right as well telling there was no way the air could get into front brake circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
The threads on the master cylinder ports are M 12x1 (rear lines) and M 11x1.5 for the front lines.
 
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