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Discussion Starter #1
Well, lost brakes, almost crashed into another vehicle. This car has not been ever driven in a snow, lines looked solid and, nevertheless, I see brake fluid dripping under left rear passenger door.
Has anybody had a good luck with prefabricated kits for 1995 Fleetwood Brougham? Any reliable source? I am pressed for time. I need to fix it within a couple of days. No lift, just a jack. Thank you!
 

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Super Moderator 2011 CTS SportWagon
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Re: Rear break line blew up.

Super normal for these cars that have seen any road salt. Every single one I've owned broke that line. This is a tough job to do without a lift, but you could pull it off. I did one one my back, all the other ones since on a lift. Just cut out the bad section, flare, add unions, and put in a pre-flared section. Available at any parts store.

You need:
mini tubing cutter
brake flare tool
section of preflare
brake fluid
buddy to help you bleed (and hope those bleeders crack open or you're replacing wheel cylinders, too)
 

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Re: Rear break line blew up.

I had it happen on my '91 Fleetwood coupe about a month ago. A shop fabricated and installed the new rear line (just one line for both rear wheels) for me and I paid $185.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Re: Rear break line blew up.

The line blew up right by the fuel filter. I am afraid I will have to plug the rear lines at the hydraulic modulator with a ball from a ball bearing and use only the front ones for a while. I'll replace the bad sections (so far two) as soon as I have a chance. I am in the middle of a trip I cannot postpone anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: Rear break line blew up.

What are the fitting threads for rear brake lines at the hydraulic modulator? One is 10 mm , the other is 12 mm, as for threads , they both seem to be 10 mm. Am I correct? Are they indeed metric?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: Rear break line blew up.

Yep, 10 mm x 1 mm and 12 mm x 1 mm. A 6 mm ball from a ball bearing sealed the both exits for rear brake lines, so no more break fluid loss. There is a wet spot in front (not under) master cylinder , though. Maybe overfilled the reservoir? But it is a few inches away from master cylinder. Another mystery. Of course, I am reluctant to drive with only front ones. Have done it many years ago with my other Caddy and the front lines blew up shortly. Now, that was bad.
 

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Check with Inlinetube. They may sell the complete brake line set. I bought a set for my '90 Fleetwood. I don't recall what I paid. I found the set on eBay sold by Inlinetube. Their website has a catalog but I don't know how up to date it is. Email or phone them and ask. Seems like what I bought are stainless steel or have nickel alloy added to detour corrosion. Piecemeal replacement cost too much so just replace them all to be safe would be my advice.

https://www.inlinetube.com/
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Upon closer inspection, there are several suspicious spots so the both rear brake lines should be replaced between two green lines in the picture. It is just easier to cut and flare the lines in those spots.
1. Do I really need all those bents, or I can do something more streamlined and attach it to the frame with cable ties or copper wire?
2. Is this brake line a right choice for the job? It says SAE flare nuts, but does not say what thread they are. Are these right unions (3/8" -24) for the nuts?
3. All flares should be double flares, correct? IMG_20190513_201331.jpg
 

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Huf

You need to fix the brakes correctly, putting in little pieces here and there doesn't cut it. That's rinky dinky. I had the same thing done on my 96 FW last year, front to back, both sides --------$321. My car only had 70K and never used in the winter.

I don't get why you're spending all this time to figure out how to not do it correctly. I'm also guessing your're still driving it around, a week later.

Think Smart!

Tom
 

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You need to do the proper amount of bends to make the lines fit properly and not rub anything. If there are multiple areas that look bad you're better off replacing the whole line from fitting to fitting.
If you need to drive the car and it's becoming an issue trying to figure out the fix play it safe and get a shop to do it.
 

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Every Cadillac I've ever owned lost brake lines from time to time. I had them transported to the mechanic. Car was back on the road the next day. It's not worth putting yourself and other motorists at risk with faulty brakes.

BTW my dad's Cads lost brake lines when I was a kid. Just something that happens.
 

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Anything about the brake lines that causes a soft pedal, even right after a complete brake job?
My mechanic says it's normal, but I have to drive with my head in the steering wheel to get my foot close enough for all that travel.
I've not seen any drips on the garage floor. When RediCadi said it's normal to lose brakes on a Caddie, I had to jump in...
 

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Anything about the brake lines that causes a soft pedal, even right after a complete brake job?
My mechanic says it's normal, but I have to drive with my head in the steering wheel to get my foot close enough for all that travel.
I've not seen any drips on the garage floor. When RediCadi said it's normal to lose brakes on a Caddie, I had to jump in...
You need a new mechanic.
 

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If you're sure there's no leak they could need bleeding or rear brakes aren't adjusted properly.
The Midas guy said they were 'comfort brakes' and the pedal travel was normal.
This was over 3 years ago and they are still the same -- no worse.
The car stops fine. If the pedal is pushed hard enough and fast enough, the anti-locks come on.
At idle, the car wants to creep forward unless the pedal is really pushed down hard with both feet.
I chalk that up to the V4P torque converter, but that's just a guess. Idle speed is normal.
 

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The Midas guy said they were 'comfort brakes' and the pedal travel was normal.
This was over 3 years ago and they are still the same -- no worse.
The car stops fine. If the pedal is pushed hard enough and fast enough, the anti-locks come on.
At idle, the car wants to creep forward unless the pedal is really pushed down hard with both feet.
I chalk that up to the V4P torque converter, but that's just a guess. Idle speed is normal.
100% NOT normal. Your brakes are not working properly. I suspect air in the system, or a bad master. Even with the rears not working at all, the front discs will hold at idle in drive with a very light touch.
 
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