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2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150s
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Not usually - it just looks tacky. The preventive trick when jacking/hoisting is to use the hard pads just inboard of the pinch weld slot.

On some models the lower plastic rocker trim is affected.

Looking at the pictures again and going back through the thread my advice would be to forget this car and continue searching and search in the Southeast/Southwest - NOT in the rust belt. Be careful of the current crop of flood salvage cars.
 

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2011 DTS
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14 Posts
Not usually - it just looks tacky. The preventive trick when jacking/hoisting is to use the hard pads just inboard of the pinch weld slot.

On some models the lower plastic rocker trim is affected.

Looking at the pictures again and going back through the thread my advice would be to forget this car and continue searching and search in the Southeast/Southwest - NOT in the rust belt. Be careful of the current crop of flood salvage cars.
Agreed, on both points. Does look bad, and yes, your best bet may be to keep looking.
 

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2006 DTS perf
2006 DTS Performance Lux III
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1,741 Posts
Your first choice: 2006 DTS Performance, I've noticed something familiar to me; the trailing edges of both front fenders bend out near the base. This is likely due to the pinch weld being crushed when someone jacked the car up. It happened to mine at a tire shop during a re-balance. The pinch weld runs below the rocker panel trim, from behind the front wheel to the back wheel on both sides. If you get on your hands and knees and look under the rocker panel you should see it; doesn't look like the rears got crushed. A body shop can fix it but could be pricey, I was quoted $2,000.00 to fix mine. Haven't done it yet.
Use a flat head screw driver and carefully pry open the pinch weld enough to get plyers on it and bend them back to as close to straight as possible. The fenders go back into place. If bare metal or rust treat and paint.
 

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2006 DTS
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38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Use a flat head screw driver and carefully pry open the pinch weld enough to get plyers on it and bend them back to as close to straight as possible. The fenders go back into place. If bare metal or rust treat and paint.
Thanks for the info, I will do this.

UPDATE: If anyone wants to know I ended up buying it. Car passed the inspection pretty well, except for a small power steering leak. The mechanic said he couldn't find the exact spot but he wouldn't think it's a big deal. I'll search for it and if I can't find it I'll have a mechanic fix it for me. No rust, needs brakes in the front soon and rotors, also tires aren't great. Everything else was fine, tested engine and transmission and said it drove real nice at highway speeds too.

I used the power steering leak to get the price down to $4000 out the door for it. Really excited because I've always wanted a DTS performance and could never find one!
 

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2007 DTS (Base: 1SB)
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68 Posts
Thanks for the info, I will do this.

UPDATE: If anyone wants to know I ended up buying it. Car passed the inspection pretty well, except for a small power steering leak. The mechanic said he couldn't find the exact spot but he wouldn't think it's a big deal. I'll search for it and if I can't find it I'll have a mechanic fix it for me. No rust, needs brakes in the front soon and rotors, also tires aren't great. Everything else was fine, tested engine and transmission and said it drove real nice at highway speeds too.

I used the power steering leak to get the price down to $4000 out the door for it. Really excited because I've always wanted a DTS performance and could never find one!
I’m happy for you and welcome to the DTS club. Being a newbie myself, This forum has already saved me $$$ in the short time I’ve been on here.
 

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2008 DTS
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1,422 Posts
Thanks for the info, I will do this.

UPDATE: If anyone wants to know I ended up buying it. Car passed the inspection pretty well, except for a small power steering leak. The mechanic said he couldn't find the exact spot but he wouldn't think it's a big deal. I'll search for it and if I can't find it I'll have a mechanic fix it for me. No rust, needs brakes in the front soon and rotors, also tires aren't great. Everything else was fine, tested engine and transmission and said it drove real nice at highway speeds too.

I used the power steering leak to get the price down to $4000 out the door for it. Really excited because I've always wanted a DTS performance and could never find one!
Welcome to the club, I hope you enjoy yours like I've enjoyed mine. They're really nice cars to drive.
 

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2011 DTS Premium
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135 Posts
Thanks for the info, I will do this.

UPDATE: If anyone wants to know I ended up buying it. Car passed the inspection pretty well, except for a small power steering leak. The mechanic said he couldn't find the exact spot but he wouldn't think it's a big deal. I'll search for it and if I can't find it I'll have a mechanic fix it for me. No rust, needs brakes in the front soon and rotors, also tires aren't great. Everything else was fine, tested engine and transmission and said it drove real nice at highway speeds too.

I used the power steering leak to get the price down to $4000 out the door for it. Really excited because I've always wanted a DTS performance and could never find one!
Awesome! Was the magnetic suspension still present and not replaced with passive equipment?
 

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2008 DTS Platinum. gone: 04 Deville, 76 Eldo conv, 74 Fltwd
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475 Posts
BWI does make replacement MRC shocks, but those don't look like auto level control shocks to me. Those have a rubber skirting around the middle (it might be there but out of the picture). Do you hear the buzzing of the compressor's test run after you start the engine? You might look up the part numbers to see what you have.

When MRC struts go bad, the fluid either oozes out or the shock/strut becomes very stiff, enough to ruin the ride.
 

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BWI does make replacement MRC shocks, but those don't look like auto level control shocks to me. Those have a rubber skirting around the middle (it might be there but out of the picture). Do you hear the buzzing of the compressor's test run after you start the engine? You might look up the part numbers to see what you have.

When MRC struts go bad, the fluid either oozes out or the shock/strut becomes very stiff, enough to ruin the ride.
That’s an auto level shock. That is the bottom of the air bladder at the top of it.
 

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2008 DTS
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180 Posts
A dealership close to me has a great deal on a 2006 DTS Performance model (I don't think your every day car buyer appreciates this like I do, I love the quicker engine and transmission.) It has a better deal than anywhere else, but the dealership has a bunch of 2 star reviews from people claiming the vehicles broke down driving home and such. The car looks fine in the photos, no rust. Front Cadillac badge is gone on the grille? But it is loaded, exactly what I want and that's why I'm tempted. Performance edition, Bose stereo, adaptive cruise control, navigation, heated/cooled/massage seats. I have searched and there isn't another one in 500 miles.

It has 112k miles on it and the Dealer is asking $4995. I figured I could probably offer $4500 cash and walk out with it, but what am I getting into potentially? Carfax shows no accidents, 3 owners, driven in Kansas I believe. Previous owner had it since 62k miles.

Some things I have noticed: Front Cadillac grille badge gone (how I saw the adaptive cruise control.) Drivers seat carpet looks peeled out from the center? Seats are in meh shape. Potentially the driver's side front door and gas cap look to be off center a bit? Might be the car, but the photo sort of looks like it. I'm tempted, because otherwise I'm purchasing a 2007 with 104k for $5350 (without massage seats, ACC, bose stereo, and navigation, and performance engine.) Is this worth the risk? Or is this a dead car patched up for a sale most likely?

Images: View attachment 604719 View attachment 604720 View attachment 604721 View attachment 604722 View attachment 604723
My 08 's carpet is the same way. I would check the struts, and look at the oil pan gasket area on a lift before offering nickel on that car. Mine has been a money pit from day one. 7000 to fix the oil leak which basically had to remove the engine to do at the dealer. Among other stuff ,the latest being wheel bearings and front brakes after the brakes were done roughly 2 years ago. The driver seat on mine is also slightly worn like the one in the pic .Oh and see if the heated and cooled seats actually work. The wires Caddy used were thin as hell and had a tendency to burn out. Had to replace that stuff on mine too. The module is under the passenger seat.
 

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Caveat Emptor. Flood car? Hire a second-opinion inspection mechanic. Cheap term insurance.

If the car has night vision there's probably no grille emblem.
Find a trusted Cadillac dealership and have them inspect this car I might cost you a few buck but could potentially save you thousands down the road.
 

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2010 dts
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37 Posts
Ok so you bought it! Hope it serves you well, I love my DTS. I don't love the dealer that serviced it and won't deal with him again hope you find a good one.
That being said, I have had mostly minor issues with mine (2010) around 140k miles..
Other than that, I recently had the steering system lose fluid which quickly escalated into a major leak. The return line was leaking, it runs from the right side of the car down to the rack across the rack and towards the front of the rack. I looked at it and knew I wanted no part of changing it. The line has two solid sections connected with a flex section. Took two mechanics (ones I trust) two hours to remove and replace it.
Then I just had a front signal light go out. Major headache, not fooling here. It can be changed without removing all of the items the manual says but it is still not an easy job. Almost like they built the front end around the headlight assemblies!
Again, I love my DTS. The headlight issue made me think twice about Cadillac engineering however. I am considering that my next vehicle will be bought based on reliability first and amenities second. Probably not a Cadillac the ways things are looking, and yes this is because of the front turn signal being so difficult to change.
 

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My 08 's carpet is the same way. I would check the struts, and look at the oil pan gasket area on a lift before offering nickel on that car. Mine has been a money pit from day one. 7000 to fix the oil leak which basically had to remove the engine to do at the dealer. Among other stuff ,the latest being wheel bearings and front brakes after the brakes were done roughly 2 years ago. The driver seat on mine is also slightly worn like the one in the pic .Oh and see if the heated and cooled seats actually work. The wires Caddy used were thin as hell and had a tendency to burn out. Had to replace that stuff on mine too. The module is under the passenger seat.
Find a trusted Cadillac dealership and have them inspect this car I might cost you a few buck but could potentially save you thousands down the road.
The OP already purchased the car. Post #44.
 

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1955 FWD 60S ~ 1987 Brougham D'Elegance ~ 1996 Fleetwood Brougham
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A thought on those wheels. This in ever appearance appears to be a Performance model for 06. Those wheels are from a newer Premium model. It could be the person trading this car for a newer one didn't like the wheels so made a deal to swap the Performance wheels from this to the new purchase.
 

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2019 MB CLS 450, 2019 Volvo V90CC
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I didn't know those wheels were still available in 2008, only 2006-7. They're so much nicer than my gaudy Platinum wheels.
For that matter, I thought the Performance engine/transaxle/suspension were available only on the Platinum from 2008 on.
Maybe from 2009 and on. My 2008 dark cherry was a Performance model. Looked great with the chrome wheels.
 

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06' STS-V,13' XTS
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Maybe from 2009 and on. My 2008 dark cherry was a Performance model. Looked great with the chrome wheels.
Keep in mind, that due to Covid, dealers are not allowed at the auction. They are buying vehicles blind, they do not know what they have until it is delivered.
 

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68 DVC, 96 FLTWD Brgm, 11 CTS Premium (two)
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Look on the driver's door for the original tire size. It will VERY CLEARLY state 17 or 18 inch wheels. If the tire size does not match the door panel, then the wheels are NOT original.

These is NO SUCH THING as a better performance engine on these cars. They ahh had the same de-tuned NorthStar (about 275HP), whereas my 2009 STS Platinum has a 320HP / 330 Torque RWD engine.

That fuel door is a mess. The driver's door does not look much better. The carper on the driver side needs top be replaced.
 
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