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Hi group,...my '94 Eldo has been sitting in the driveway for 2 years (and yes I wash it regularly) so it doesn't look abandoned. I was coming home from a wild night 2 years ago and was pushing the N* partiularly hard and when I got in to town I could hear a "knock" at idle. (yikes!! new motor time),..well as it sat running in the driveway,..a new noise developed, a lighter thrashing sound that seemed to come out of the "top end". It really sounded like parts were being dragged through the timing chain and rapping against the valve covers!! (no kidding) Well after conferring with some members ,it was determined that the obvious "diagnostic" approach" would be to drain the oil,..look for contamination, I did this and it is clean. pull off the oil filter and cut it apart and look in the folds for babbit material (I did this,....... some material,..but not as bad as expected) I recently (yesterday) decided to inspect the valve train for damage and if possible fix it,..put in fresh oil and see if the noise goes away. I got the front cover off everything looks perfect and am halfway to getting the back one off and and figured I'd pull off the complete intake also.I was thinking as I went,.."how will I ever get all these hoses and wires back where they go"??? When I got to the phase where you take out the two front "carriage" bolts and the two "torque strut bolts and lower the engine,..I thought "hell I might as well take out the whole FWD unit in one piece as it would be much easier to work on. I am a pipe weldor with all the equipment so I think I could fab. a stand high enough to hold up the "body" to allow the unit to lower and roll out. I do have the two Cadillac factory manuals for my Eldo,..I reall didn't see a procedure for dropping out the "carriage" anyone who took the time to read all this "thank you very much",..and please advise next move. Randall Peterson AKA ojaieldo
 

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90 Eldo -SOLD-, 98 ETC -SOLD-, 86 XR4Ti Track Car, 07 Ranger
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Easiest/cheapest way to drop it is to get a good engine hoist, build a low profile dolly that will sit under the front subframe for support, undo the subframe connectors and providing everything else like suspension, electrical, coolant, etc has been disconnected use the engine hoist to jack the front of the car up and over the engine/trans/subframe and slide it out. You can get much lower if you remove wheels/suspensions/hubs/driveshafts otherwise you're going to be lifting your front end to the moon :)

Better alternative is a side hoist (one that looks like a giant forklift and picks up between ur tires, all you'd have to do is support the front subframe and pick the car up, though unless you have several $K laying around this probably won't be your best bet...

I assume you're going to do a teardown/inspection first to see where the problem lies? If you engine is junk due to say chewing up a valve/damaging cylinder, rings, wall, crank you might try a local wrecker for a used longblock and then rebuild that, if you have the tools/know how you can probably do a fully rebuilt/timeserted N* for $1500...
 

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Thankyou RAZE,...I like your solution,....Where the heck would I safely attatch my hoist to the "body without hurting it? If the motor is indeed unuseable I would hope to get one of those E- motors for $2700.00 from Wisconsin with the retro kit to go with the "94 OBD1 system". I've monitored this group for a long time ,...I sure appreciate you responding as I'm sure I will have more queastions.
 

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If the motor is indeed unuseable I would hope to get one of those E- motors for $2700.00 from Wisconsin with the retro kit to go with the "94 OBD1 system".
If you are talking about Custom Innovations, better do a search.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the reality check Ranger,...I guess the altrnative would be the PROMAR engine,...do you know if they can retro a '94? or,...if anyone in So.Cal specializes in N*'s? they must,....everything ELSE in the world can be found here.
 

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Thankyou RAZE,...I like your solution,....Where the heck would I safely attatch my hoist to the "body without hurting it? If the motor is indeed unuseable I would hope to get one of those E- motors for $2700.00 from Wisconsin with the retro kit to go with the "94 OBD1 system". I've monitored this group for a long time ,...I sure appreciate you responding as I'm sure I will have more queastions.
First thing, take the radiator, AC condensor, and headlights out, it will give you a ton more room to work.

I wrapped a chain around the bottom radiator support beam. It held fine for lifting my 98 SLS.

I just used an H frame and a come along to lift the body off.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you JC316,....I will do that,...I was afraid if I tried lifting the body in the wrong place,.I might tweek it. Unless someone has a better design,.I plan to make a dolly out of 11/2" square tubing with casters on 4 corners with a "jack stand" head in 4 appropriate spots so I will have adjustment lowering and re-installing the carriage,..does this sound reasonable? anyone ???? I said 11/2" tubing because I always tend to overengineer everything. Randall,AKA ojaieldo
 

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The body is pretty easy to lift. With the car down drop the cradle onto something. I used a floor jack front and rear. People have used moving dolly's and homemade dolly's. Raise the body with an engine hoist lifting the radiator support. I used a length of 4x4 to insure it would not bend.If you lift in the center it won't tweak. You will have to build a pair of tall jackstands to hold the body while you roll the engine out.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forum...cussion/5052-n-head-gasket-repair-part-i.html


Regarding the noises...how is the oil pressure? The valvetrain makes a horrible racket if it runs dry and because it has a limited flow it takes awhile to pump up. The oil pump is on the crank behind the balancer. If the balance loosens you loose oil pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well,....hmmmm,.....good question zonie77,. There is no actual pressure indicator on my '94 etc and no codes were coming up while it was running,..so how would I know if it was low?.
 

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Hello group,....thanks again for all your good advice,...one question though,...I was asked if my oil pressure was good when my engine was "rattleing",..well, my '94 ETC doesn't have a "pressure gauge" and no "engine" codes came up while it was running,.so how would I know the oil pressure? is there a sequence to press that will tell your oil pressure?

thankyou again Randall AKA ojaieldo
 

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Ditto on the message. It might still be an easy thing to check by getting a gauge and mounting it into the oil sender hole. Or make sure the balancer bolt is tight. It should be 250 ft lbs (someone correct me if I'm wrong). That means reallllllllllllllly tight.

just something to check before you do all that work and spend all that money.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks again ZONIE77,....I will check that bolt,...I'm going to drop the "cradle" out at any rate, as I'm mostly unhooked just from the dismantling and I would want to detail everything before i put it back
 
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