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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The clear-coat is pealing on most of the side molding/cladding on our 2004 Escalade. We took it to a paint shop that is a recognized Lexus paint shop and also recommended by our insurance company. The best side of the car (drivers side), which wasn't peeling, was damaged by scraping a chainlink fence. That repair is being covred by our insurance. We decided to go ahead and have the rest of the cladding repainted so it would all match. The shop, who provides a lifetime warranty on the paint job, said that all the cladding had to be removed and painted for the warranty to be valid. If the cladding is painted in place they are concerned about the clear-coat peeling back from the edges. They had difficulty removing the insurance covered cladding. They tried to remove it with a razor blade to cut the adhesive and then resorted to applying heat. In the process all three cladding pieces (front door, rear door and quarter panel) were damaged beyond reuse. They are ordering replacemant pieces which the insurance authorized and will cover. They expect the same problem with the remaining cladding and provided replacement costs (left & right front fender $1,000 each, front passenger side door, rear passenger side door and passenger side quarter panel $2,000 total for all three cladding pieces - both doors and quarter panel). The original out of packet cost was $4,900 which also included the front and rear bumper covers, 3rd brake light, roof and right and left rear side vents. The replacement cost for the cladding will be around $4,000 which will more than double the out of pocket costs! It will turn out to be several hundred dollars more than $10,000 as it dosen't include painting the new cladding!!!!!

Finally here's the question. Are they going about removing the cladding the wrong way and destroying them in the process? I've painted several cars in the past but never had to deal with plastic/rubber cladding. There has to be a better way to do it. I'm just not sure they know what they're doing. Could they use piano wire to slice through the adhesive which I suspect is tape adhesive? I suspect they are getting the cladding from Cadillac with full Cadillac pricing.

I'm considering getting the cladding from an aftermarket source and having a different paint shop paint and install them. OR just having the existing cladding painted in place on the car.

Any help/thoughts are appreciated!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
After some thought I realized the ridiculously high priced parts were probably straight from Cadillac. The parts were in effect being “resold” to me at what we use to call “net price”. The paint shop would have gotten them for what use to be called “list” price. In any event I would have been charged double of what the paint shop paid. From past experience list was frequently 1/2 of what the net price is.
There was no incentive to remove the cladding carefully so they could be reinstalled when they could make an extra quick $2,000 - $3,000 (parts and painting charges) by putting new ones on. If that is what their line of thought was it backfired on them. I truly hope I am completely wrong. I try to think the best of people but in this case my instinct tells me otherwise.
I will be searching for new cladding parts and having the work done elsewhere or maybe having the new shop paint the original cladding in place.
 

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This is the metal panels that are mounted on the bottom half of the doors, correct? I don't see any reason for them to remove this cladding. If they prep/tape the area properly and then buff it later, shouldn't be able to tell the vehicle was repaired in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Those pieces are actually rubber/plastic and cover the bottom portion of the doors. They’re a lot like the bumper covers. The shop is one that specializes in painting Lexes cars. They offer a lifetime warranty on paint and labor. They claim the reason they need to come off is so the whole edge and backside of the panels get covered with clear coat. This they say prevents peel back of the clear coat.

The shop finally got the replacement panels for the left side (covered by the insurance claim) however they arrived damaged and unusable from Cadillac. They’ve been reordered. So maybe next week we may see the Escalade. I’m still planning on using a different shop for the right side. They’ll be painted in place on the vehicle.
 

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Looking at mine, there is a fingernail sized gap all around that panel. I'm no bodywork expert, but I would think it's a great line to prevent any type of issues with blending or clear coat issues.

Here's the backside of a used panel. Doesn't look like any clear goes on the back of any of the panels. Assuming that is factory paint, it looks like the vehicle is painted after those panels are attached at the factory, as you can see the line of spray from the paint guns on part of the sides of the panel. But maybe in order for the shop to warranty their work, they have to do what they describe.



At the end of the day, it's your money, but I think you are getting ripped off by that shop. I'd shop around for the part you have to pay for out of pocket.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Paint



I agree with you but the insurance company is paying for the panels that were damaged. I’ve painted several cars and understand their logic but they’re offering a lifetime warranty. The three panels they damaged in order to remove them are covered under an insurance claim so I’m not out of any money. The other panels needing paint/clear coat comes out of pocket as it should. Those panels have not been worked on at all so they’re not needing replacement. They will be taken care of at another shop and painted in place on the vehicle.
 

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Is this an Escalade EXT?
If so, the clips that hold the cladding on break and you just replace the clips.
I haven't had to deal with that, but an Avalanche friend of mine had to when he had all his cladding rhino lined.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Realmsteel I don’t know what happened to my reply post. I posted one but I don’t see it. It is an Escalade. Not a Chevy. The cladding is different. The top edge is held on with adhesive strips not clips. I saw what you were talking about in the GM shop manual for Chevys.
 
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