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2011 Escalade ESV Premium
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Discussion Starter #1
I had the dealer install this 140-8992-D. I can't seem to decelerate slowly anymore. Can anyone see any problem?!?!?!?

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2010 Premium w/ ALL options + 2004 Pontiac GTO LS6 "Beast"
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1,196 Posts
Yup. You trusted the dealer to touch, let alone work on your vehicle. BIG problem!
 

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2008 Escalade
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311 Posts
I'm guessing this was sarcasm to show off your new wilwood calipers? Big difference in stopping power from factory size?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm guessing this was sarcasm to show off your new wilwood calipers? Big difference in stopping power from factory size?
I don't know about sarcasm. I was going for humor. But yes, the 16" kit is a phenomenal upgrade from stock. Very smooth controlled feeling and very much improved stopping distance. Flawless product.
 

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2009 AWD Escalade Ultra Luxury Raven Black
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I'm sure those stop really nice, how much Is that kit? I'm getting ready to install Raybestos advanced tech rotors and pads, w/ new powerstop red calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I paid $2330 for the kit (calipers rotors, pads), flex lines, 6 bottles of 600F fluid, tax and shipping inclusive.
 

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2008 Escalade
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Yeah sarcasm wasn't the right word, but I was picking up what you were laying down. I like the look of the bbk's and everyone says they work well. I just can't fork over that much for quicker stopping time. Maybe if I raced...

Those look good though. I'd either go black like you or red on the caliper.
 

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My suggestion to anyone looking to improve on braking without spending the big bucks for the looks of a BBK is to upgrade your lines to SS, and flush your entire system with some Motul fluid.
If you still desire more braking, check out the +1 kits with slotted/drilled rotors - Well under $1k.

I have all of the above and my braking is great. Sure the BBK will (should) perform better, but is the extra few feet of braking worth $2300? The BBKs are better suited for track experiences where normal systems will induce brake fade.

But hey, if you have the money to burn, they do *look* nice :D
 

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2009 AWD Escalade Ultra Luxury Raven Black
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Yep, will be replacing all my lines with Goodrich SS. I did pick up Motul 600 brake fluid as well, hopefully this helps out some.
 

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Did you do research on the Motul fluid K9? A lot of their fluids are more geared toward track use and require more frequent flushes. They have 2-3 that are more DD friendly. I know the 5.1 is, I don't recall the others.
 

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I did and didn't... I picked up Motul 660 which does seem more designed for track use. However, I'm not sure why it would need to replaced sooner than anything else? The reason I was attracted to it, was the higher WET boiling point. But, if it needs to be changed constantly, maybe I should exchange it.
 

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Brake fluid attracts moisture. Even in the air from your reservoir. Start heating up and cooling down the fluid from braking and it will accumulate more moisture. Moisture (water) compresses under force. Brake fluid does not and is the reason it is used. You want the force applied to your brakes' pistons, not water/moisture. This is the single reason why just changing your fluid helps your brake system. It doesn't work magic, just enables the system to work the way it was designed.

I'd google it and see what the general consensus is. I did and went with the 5.1 as it had the longest periods between flushes. Most vehicles *should* be flushed every 2 years, and the 5.1 is good for that under normal DD driving. The others I looked at needed to be done every year or sooner. Not that big a deal, but you need to make an informed decision. Brakes are the most important safety feature on your truck ;)
 

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2010 CTS-V sedan
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it is fairly obvious that the ROI that you get out of fresh, good brake fluid and stainless lines is at the opposite end of the spectrum from quality big ass rotors and 6 piston calipers.

Nice brakes man!! Looking forward to seeing the next upgrades.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Brake fluid attracts moisture. Even in the air from your reservoir. Start heating up and cooling down the fluid from braking and it will accumulate more moisture. Moisture (water) compresses under force. Brake fluid does not and is the reason it is used. You want the force applied to your brakes' pistons, not water/moisture. This is the single reason why just changing your fluid helps your brake system. It doesn't work magic, just enables the system to work the way it was designed.

I'd google it and see what the general consensus is. I did and went with the 5.1 as it had the longest periods between flushes. Most vehicles *should* be flushed every 2 years, and the 5.1 is good for that under normal DD driving. The others I looked at needed to be done every year or sooner. Not that big a deal, but you need to make an informed decision. Brakes are the most important safety feature on your truck ;)
If you'd like to make an even more informed decision, water doesn't significantly compress any more than brake fluid. The reason water is a terrible brake fluid is because it BOILS at 212F. You don't hurt anything at all by running HT brake fluid. You just waste your money if you buy a fluid with a boiling point higher than you need. It also becomes completely evident that anyone who would compare some SS lines and a fluid upgrade in context with a big brake kit upgrade has never operated a vehicle with a big brake kit. There is no comparison, period. You don't just shave a few feet off your braking distance, you get consistent braking after repeated aggressive use. You can try and rationalize saving a few bucks all you like, but there is no substitute for 16" rotors for maximum brake torque and huge surface area. It's not just *looks* it's physics.
 

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If you'd like to make an even more informed decision, water doesn't significantly compress any more than brake fluid. The reason water is a terrible brake fluid is because it BOILS at 212F. You don't hurt anything at all by running HT brake fluid. You just waste your money if you buy a fluid with a boiling point higher than you need. It also becomes completely evident that anyone who would compare some SS lines and a fluid upgrade in context with a big brake kit upgrade has never operated a vehicle with a big brake kit. There is no comparison, period. You don't just shave a few feet off your braking distance, you get consistent braking after repeated aggressive use. You can try and rationalize saving a few bucks all you like, but there is no substitute for 16" rotors for maximum brake torque and huge surface area. It's not just *looks* it's physics.
:bigroll:
Obviously you didn't stop to read my earlier post, #10 where I stated that BBKs are good at reducing brake fade. However on a DD vehicle brake fade should not be an issue. Unless you are doing frequent 100-0 sprints all day BBKs are not needed, and if you have any concern a +1 kit will save a ton of cash and get you where you need to be.
You stated that you just waste money if you buy a fluid with a higher boiling point than you need. Ok, with that same notion, the same can be applied to the cost of a BBK. Spending more than you need.
As I stated, for $2300 you are really only getting a few feet more stopping distance on a DD vehicle. Do you track your truck?
And for the record, I *have* used a few different big brake kits, as I have frequented the road course at VIR. I know exactly what brake fade feels like, and the "oh shit" feeling that comes with it.

As for water/brake fluid - water *is* more compressible than brake fluid. Water has oxygen in it, and that compresses. Not to mention the corrosive properties of water are bad for the lines and calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
:bigroll:
Obviously you didn't stop to read my earlier post, #10 where I stated that BBKs are good at reducing brake fade. However on a DD vehicle brake fade should not be an issue. Unless you are doing frequent 100-0 sprints all day BBKs are not needed, and if you have any concern a +1 kit will save a ton of cash and get you where you need to be.
You stated that you just waste money if you buy a fluid with a higher boiling point than you need. Ok, with that same notion, the same can be applied to the cost of a BBK. Spending more than you need.
As I stated, for $2300 you are really only getting a few feet more stopping distance on a DD vehicle. Do you track your truck?
And for the record, I *have* used a few different big brake kits, as I have frequented the road course at VIR. I know exactly what brake fade feels like, and the "oh shit" feeling that comes with it.

As for water/brake fluid - water *is* more compressible than brake fluid. Water has oxygen in it, and that compresses. Not to mention the corrosive properties of water are bad for the lines and calipers.
I am deeply humbled by your superior mastery of the physical sciences. I hang my head in shame and defeat. Clearly I was wrong to post such excess in this need-based forum for the Cadillac Escalade where fuel economy and utilitarian aspects of the vehicle are of the utmost importance. I am beyond grateful for your clarification of the record. I bow down and grovel before your racing skills and expert knowledge of performance driving. I apologize to all members of the forum for daring to share a photo of any egregious flaunting of performance parts that add no necessary performance improvements toward travel to the local supermarket or educational facilities for my children. You are right and I am wrong.
 

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Fellas fellas fellas... can't we all get along?? :)

I don't currently own a Caddy (although I have much want for the CTSV2), but I do run plus sized Baer brakes all the way around on my daily beater. I can't use the full braking power on street tires, but I greatly appreciate the lack of brake fade after repeated stops. I suppose it's relevant to distinguish between different people's driving styles. I tend to wear brakes out quickly, whereas my wife's SUV has over 80k miles on the factory brakes. She has never experienced brake fade, but I have- many times.
 
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