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Hello,

I know this item has been discussed before but I wanted to see if I can get more insight on what may be the issue. My girlfriend has a 2008 CTS and she is having random dead batteries. This has been going on for quite awhile and honestly at first we thought it was the cold that was the culprit (which would also be a strange problem because not even when I lived in Wisconsin did I or anyone I knew have problems starting their car, we live in Indiana now) but the problem also happened a couple times when it was warmer out. When I do try to jump her car when it’s in this state and it fails the cd starts going through acting like it is changing discs a couple times and there is a clicking in the engine compartment.

please if anyone can asks questions I would be happy to answer regarding the vehicle if that will help give me and idea or at least narrow down what the problem is. After we do jump it and she drives itfor a bit to recharge or I let it run it will he fine for a couple days and sometimes weeks until it randomly dies again and puts us in a bind. Thank you for your help in advance.
 

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2011 CTS Sport Wagon
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How old is the battery? Did you get it tested?

Do you have anything plugged into the cigarette lighter 24/7? If I recall those were hot with the ignition off back in 2008.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have not tried to measure the drain. I think I recently got a volt meter so I am not 100% on using it completely. How do you go about checking the drain rate?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How old is the battery? Did you get it tested?

Do you have anything plugged into the cigarette lighter 24/7? If I recall those were hot with the ignition off back in 2008.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
My girlfriend said that she does not have anything plugged into the cigarette lighter, and she had the battery tested at the dealership and they said it was still good.
 

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08 CTS DI
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If you have remote start, pay close attention to the ignition switch. When this happened to me, I found the ignition switch had not been turned completely off (car immediately powered up when battery was charged and reinstalled). Also make sure your radio/screen is turning off when you open the door. I can see where an intermittent door actuator sensor like mine, could lead to this on a battery that is good enough to pass a test after being recharged, but not good enough to sustain the 10 minute run time-out after the ignition is turned off, should the radio be allowed to run that long. Speaking of batteries, what are the specs on yours, CCA? Have all of the occurrences been with the same battery?

If that's found to be okay, you'll need to follow Padgett's approach and investigate with a multimeter/amp probe. The trouble with that is you have an intermittent problem and will need an amp clamp like the one seen on the negative battery cable and a means to get an amp reading immediately after the car is shut down, with the trunk closed and all accessories off, in an effort to identify an unusually high current drain.

Make sure the battery posts are clean and the cable ends tight, because technically, the body control module (BCM) should cut all accessory power by the 10 minute mark, with the lighter socket being the possible exception as mentioned. A question was asked about the sunroof drains also. If you have one, it is something to look into.

An in depth scan with an advanced scan tool is in order also, as some problem codes are not alerted to by the engine light. Last, but not least, switch to battery voltage on the display before the car is started and note the voltage, then observe it for a time as you're driving to make sure it is charging above 13 volts at all times while the car is running, in the event you have an alternator that is fighting the "good fight" instead of just failing outright.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you have remote start, pay close attention to the ignition switch. When this happened to me, I found the ignition switch had not been turned completely off (car immediately powered up when battery was charged and reinstalled). Also make sure your radio/screen is turning off when you open the door. I can see where an intermittent door actuator sensor like mine, could lead to this on a battery that is good enough to pass a test after being recharged, but not good enough to sustain the 10 minute run time-out after the ignition is turned off, should the radio be allowed to run that long. Speaking of batteries, what are the specs on yours, CCA? Have all of the occurrences been with the same battery?

If that's found to be okay, you'll need to follow Padgett's approach and investigate with a multimeter/amp probe. The trouble with that is you have an intermittent problem and will need an amp clamp like the one seen on the negative battery cable and a means to get an amp reading immediately after the car is shut down, with the trunk closed and all accessories off, in an effort to identify an unusually high current drain.

Make sure the battery posts are clean and the cable ends tight, because technically, the body control module (BCM) should cut all accessory power by the 10 minute mark, with the lighter socket being the possible exception as mentioned. A question was asked about the sunroof drains also. If you have one, it is something to look into.

An in depth scan with an advanced scan tool is in order also, as some problem codes are not alerted to by the engine light. Last, but not least, switch to battery voltage on the display before the car is started and note the voltage, then observe it for a time as you're driving to make sure it is charging above 13 volts at all times while the car is running, in the event you have an alternator that is fighting the "good fight" instead of just failing outright.
Wow thank you so much for the in depth post! I really appreciate it. I will try some of these and get back about it.
 

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This could cause an issue? She did just mention today that there is water coming in where a sunglasses holder WOULD be, not directly where the sunroof is.
It can disable the car and is probably the most notorious issue with not just CTS models with a sunroof, but probably any GM car from 07 on with a sunroof, up to at least 2013 if the class-action lawsuit involving the SRX is any indication. There are a couple of good threads here addressing how to remedy the problem. The drain ends are manufactured with an obstruction that eventually results in them overflowing into the cabin area, where delicate components and sensitive wires can get wet and interrupt communications, disabling the car. Why such a problem was allowed to persist for so long is beyond my reasoning, except for suspecting something nefarious.

It can manifest in different ways, my first incident with it, was the passenger rear window rolling down at ignition on, following a hard rain and staying down until the affected area, usually the passenger front floor board and dash area, dried out. If you have water getting anywhere near the center dash, you better fix it fast.

Hopefully someone will weigh in with the appropriate link, I no longer have it.
 

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Go ahead, blame me. Everybody does. 🙄
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Yeah, look at that subject line, I would have never found it thinking inside the box with search entries. Serves me right for trying to make sense all the time. Thanks Long.
 

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Go ahead, blame me. Everybody does. 🙄
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Yeah, look at that subject line, I would have never found it thinking inside the box with search entries. Serves me right for trying to make sense all the time. Thanks Long.
I have posted and reposted this thread so many times it's engraved in my melon.
IMO, one of the most important threads at our disposal.
 
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