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Discussion Starter #1
Hey people Once more the Cleansweep Setup and I need some help well im kinda stuck. so be a pal and help me :highfive: pretty much my probelm is how to power the clean sweep and how to feed my sub singnal to the cleansweep, oO and i sent a PM to FlyFlip420 and i read "Nerd needs help from the Geeks" from RobertCTS, and i read the FlyFlip420 faq on CTS faqs but i got stuck sorry guys :thepan:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hmm about the pillars i dont know if i was clear they are the one on the front where the stock tweeter are so i install my nw ones. any pic of how to remove those like where re the pins and so on!! it would be apreciated. Im going to do the whole set up starting this coming weekend ill post pics and stuff( i think i will have to become a supporter :highfive:) but ill will post everiting i do from start to finish it might be helpful for others
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I sent you a PM back....The door pillars are easy to remove and their is a detailed writeup in the FAQ :D I forgot to write that in the PM.....Sorry if it was vague, fire more questions if you have em....
Well i do have more questions im not really afraid of wiring cuz i think is the fun part you ither messed everything UP or make it Work (thats the fun part btw :lildevil:) yes the only thing that makes me wondder if i would get full signal like mid high and lows from the connections coming from the outputs if the OEM amp to feed the cleansweep but my questina about that is that you get FR, FL, RR, RL, but how do i feed the low to the cleansweep or is not necesary?
 

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You dont need to feed the low...the rears are full frequency.. you will feed those to the cleansweep...then the cleansweep will do all the work for you and send it to your amps....Did you check the FAQ for the pillars?? I love wiring too but this one pissed me off....buy the summing device from JL or a dealer
 

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Like Flyflip said.................your going to need some type of summing device to go before the CleanSweep or your not going to get a true 20-20,000 signal. JL actually makes one now that's less than $100.00 or Audio control has a piece. Why aren't you getting your signal at the Bose amp in the trunk ???? This is the easiest place to tap it at and there's room for the sweep back there. I had the CleanSweep and the R/F 360.1...........both worked well with the 360.1 giving me more control. I eventually pulled it and replaced my factory NAV with and Alpine IVA-W205. Best thing I ever did was getting rid of the factory NAV and Bose amp. Car sounds like it should now. Good luck.

Are you replacing all the speakers and new amps or just adding a sub ????

Shane
 

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On a relative note: How much does the Cleansweep itself, cost? =)
 

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You had a cleansweep and a 360 installed without upgrading the stock speakers?? Why would you do that?? Why waste the money on a cleansweep or 360 if your not upgrading all of the speakers and using an external amp?? YOu didnt fully use either of them and thats why your sound didnt change much......THe stock Bose system compared to even a cheap aftermarket setup is garbage and should have been replaced...I didnt even think you could do that without replacing all of the speakers

Not sure on the pricing of the cleansweep nowadays....but it should have come down by now...check ebay...
 

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Fly,

I started out with the Cleansweep first going to two JL amps (300/4 and 500/1) and replaced all speakers with JL components. It sounded ok but at that time I didn't have anything to sum the signal out of the Bose amp. Sold the CleanSweep and bought the 360.1 since it auto summed, cleaned up the signal and had EQ controls. It was much better but I still didn't like getting the signal out of the Bose amp and manipulating it. For a while I actually tapped the signal before the Bose amp (you lose volume control and all audio control functions) and tied it into the 360.1. **Note: PAC is about 6 months away from having a device that taps the signal before the Bose amp and will allow you to add aftermarket amps and keep the factory HU** Sounded a lot better but I lost audio controls and Nav voice controls. Replacing the head unit for me was the only viable option. Now I have full use of the on-star (which I don't use) and a fantastic signal since I'm going from the IVA-W205 to a 701 processor and then to JL 450/4 and 500/1.

There also "IS NOT" a full spectrum frequency coming out of the BOSE amp.
I thought as many that the rear speakers were full range but they are not. We had a spectrum analyzer on that speaker pair and they have a serious roll off around 80 hrtz. The only way to get "close" to a full range signal is to tie the front, rear and sub outputs into a summing device.

I know the stereo like the back of my hand in this car now. I've had my "V" close to four years now and have had multiple types of equipment in it. I'm finally done except for having the stereo tuned and the cover piece done for the enclosure in the trunk. I will tell you this.....the factory speaker locations in the car suck as far as on axis response. We had to do some serious time delay with my Alpine processor to get everything sounding okay. Still needs some tweaking but this is one of the best systems I have heard in a while. I've been doing car audio about 20 years now and have heard just about everything.

Shane
 

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Basically mine looks like this. I'm having everything painted to match though since all the "V" interior trim is black. The "black" Metra mounting kit doesn't match very well. Texture is off and color is off. One of my friends who is a "professional installer" is attaching the three pieces (A/C trim-Metra kit-A/C trim surround) together and then paint matching to the rest of the trim. It should look almost factory.

Shane
 

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Okay, now i'm completely confused here. What is the point of the CleanSweep or the 360??? You shouldn't get it if you plan on using stock stereo equipment??
 

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Discussion Starter #15
On a relative note: How much does the Cleansweep itself, cost? =)
Well i bought mine a couple of months ago and it was about $350~ , and about the summing i mean it sucks that i had to pay $35X and for the clean sweep is not so much of big deal of price taking in count how much im spending here is about 140 on ebay (shipping included) so it would be like 500 just on clean sweep and summing signal :mad: (not that bad comparing what a new radio would be; nice radio btw), well i guess playing around with cables will be postpone until i get this suming diveice. but now my question would be is it really worth the 140 bucks? is the sound difference like AMAZING, or just in a graph level different, dont mean to offend nobody but i will not be going to competitions or anything like that... FlyFlip are you using a summing divice? if you dont how good your system sound?

about the pillars sorry i couldnt find it anywhere i saw the ones on the back but those are easy any links for the front ones

Oo one more thing where could be the best place to place the crosser of the tweeters? in the back by the cleansweep or in the doors?

Just to be clear I plan to get the signal after the OEM amp (non-bose) then feed it to the cleansweep to my aftermarket amp and from my new amp to my after market speakers. (simple as it sounds...)

and for people asking here the setup sitting on my dinner table

-Cleansweep :highfive: <<-- FlyFlip thinks is cool (i do too :p)
-Kicker ZX700.5 (5 chanel amp nice RMS watts; mono d amp [included on the amp] for the sub)
-1 pair of Infinity kappa 52.7i (for the back speakers A.K.A. RR and RL :p)
-1 pair of Infinity Kappa 50.7CS (for the front speakers A.K.A FR and FL)
-and a JL 10w3v2 sub ( i havent decided if it will go free-air or sealed, althoug i like the free air setup it looks stock and it helps to have space on the trunk)

like i said before i will try to post pic step by step of what i do.
FlypFly remeber the link for the front pillars :highfive:
 

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The 10w3v2 is going to sound like crap free air. VAS is to small. You only need .625 sealed so that would be a very small sealed enclosure that could go behind the back seat and fire through the ski pass. Your probably only talking about losing 6" of trunk space. The Kicker amp could mount under the deck lid. I've got a 12w6v2 sealed behind my back seat and didn't lose hardly and room at all. Both of my JL amps are mounted under the decklid.

The front pillars are easy to remove. Pull the ABS badge......screw behind it ......remove screw..........pillar slides right out.

Do you have factory NAV or just the regular sysyem with DIC ???? Some of the base CTS's don't have an external amp and have a full range signal going straight to the speakers. You wouldn't need the Cleansweep in that application.

Here is a pic of a 1.25 ft enclosure with amps under decklid in my car. Your enclosure would be half that size. Mine fires through the ski pass and I have "no rattles".

Shane
 

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No your not confused...the cleansweep is to keep the stock headunit and have it sound like an aftermarket system. I dont have the summing device, but wiring it was a nightmare, the summing device makes it alot easier and I wish I had it(it wasnt out when I got my cleansweep)....if you dont get the summing device, by the time you buy the PAC convertors and waste alot of time wiring it, you would wish you just bought the summing device. I have my crossovers mounted in the trunk right of the amp.....It goes signal to cleansweep, cleansweep to amp, amp to crossovers, then I tapped into the existing speaker wires that run up to the speakers and it goes to them so I didnt have to rewire them(altough it would sound better)

Your system is gonna sound stellar!!!


PLUS you will have an audio input for your MP3 to be hard wired...thats my favorite advantage
 

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Discussion Starter #18
yes the Mp3 aux is a plus. well im conviced im going to get the suming device like thay i wont have to get any pacs or naything like plus im installing it myself so im saving lots of money and ssmith100 you gave a good idea there i was thinking of making a custome floting box im not good at building but i was thinking of buying a made on and cutting here and there and put some screws here and there well is just an idea i would have to look in to it, now ratelyng is something else. i would have to see whats really rateling back there; and to your coment of the non-bose system without an amp mine sadly has one in the back of my trunk and there is something under my passenger seat aswell althout i dont know waht that is!? does any one know? ill star my proget fryday afternoon and i will probalby finish by sunday or next weekend! ;) look foward to my next post with the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I was wondering if the summing signal would let me use the fade option and to be able to use the EQ of the radio (althought they suck but is better than manuly set the EQ on the amp for certain songs)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Okay i was working on the wiring skeme i goint to do in the car but i wondering if the remote turn on for the amp shuld be conected to the one of the climate control but i came across a qustion you know when you turn your car off (remove the key from ignition) the radio will still play until you open the door but the climate control shuts off as soon as you turn the key will this happen to the Cleansweep-& amp as well? and if it does is there any way to make it work like the normal radio that wont shut off if you remove the key?????
 
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