I have the standards and like them a lot but I hear the upgrade ones are nice too. Let us know what you find out
R1 Concept Rotors
Anyone know the difference between R1 concept's new Premium Rotors and their regular cross drilled rotors? I can get the Premium rotors with brak pads for $349 plus shipping (listd on ebay for $445), the regular cross drilled rotors would set me back $255 plus shippping, so roughly a $100 difference. Anyone know if the Premiums are actually better, or does it just have some black color and costs $100 more?????
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I picked the UUC rotors from Lindsay Cadillac. I felt more comfortable with the transaction with Luke.
I have the R1s and they are awesome!!!!!
I agree....I have had the R1's and I am more than impressed with them.
They have no problems stopping the 20's on a dime!
They have no problems stopping the 20's on a dime!
Imagine how quick they would stop 17" or 18"!! 20's can't get it done!I agree....I have had the R1's and I am more than impressed with them.
They have no problems stopping the 20's on a dime!
what size rotors did you pick up? looking at rotors real soon.I agree....I have had the R1's and I am more than impressed with them.
They have no problems stopping the 20's on a dime!
He was asking about R1....I picked the UUC rotors from Lindsay Cadillac. I felt more comfortable with the transaction with Luke.
Anyway, I had no problem with the install, look, feel, or braking power with my standard R1 rotors. So even if you go with the upgraded version I think youre going to be happy. Ive had mine on for about 8 months now and think they are great. No warping etc.
I went with the premium rotors just for the heck of it. I was looking at the UUC but it would have been a price difference of about $250, which could be put to better use. I'll let everyone know how they are!
After searching high and low, I think I found a thread where you guys might be able to help me.
I'm also looking into the R1 rotors and I just need to know.... do I get the "sport" rotors or the "standard" rotors.
When I bought my CTS I was told it was the sport version and it did have the 17" sport wheels on it, so does this mean that I need the "sport" rotors?
I hope someone can finally answer my question so I can get these rotors ordered up.
Thanks in advance.
I'm also looking into the R1 rotors and I just need to know.... do I get the "sport" rotors or the "standard" rotors.
When I bought my CTS I was told it was the sport version and it did have the 17" sport wheels on it, so does this mean that I need the "sport" rotors?
I hope someone can finally answer my question so I can get these rotors ordered up.
Thanks in advance.
I've had the R1 (regular d/s) rotors on for a while now also. No problems at all with them - look & work great. There are a number of us with R1, and I'm yet to hear of anyone who is dissatisfied. At the price I don't think you can go wrong.
There is a chance that any rotor can go bad no matter how much you pay for it (as Robert can attest). Since none of the manufacturers provide a decent length warranty, IMO it is not worth spending more.
-GT
There is a chance that any rotor can go bad no matter how much you pay for it (as Robert can attest). Since none of the manufacturers provide a decent length warranty, IMO it is not worth spending more.
-GT
I read something yesterday about the "slotted" rotors which I found interesting.
The "slots" are designed for race vehicles. In a race application, the brake pads will glaze from the extreme braking conditions. The slots are designed to "slice" the glaze off, thus allowing the pads to work as normal. The "drilled" holes are designed to keep the rotors cooler by allowing heat to disapate. The holes also allow the "gases" that build up between a normal rotor and pad to escape through th holes. These gases are what cause "brake fade", it's not necessarily that they are fading, it's just that they are getting so hot that gases build up and cause a little cushion so to speak, not allowing the brake pad to contact the rotor in the correct way.
Now... in normal driving conditions, the "slots" will apparently slice away your brake pads a lot quicker than a standard rotor or a drilled rotor. This got me thinking, that realistically, I probably would just wanted a good drilled rotor and not one with the slots in it.
I just read about this above information yesterday and thought I'd share it with anyone who is considering a slotted / drilled rotor. I think I'm in the market for just a drilled rotor now.
The "slots" are designed for race vehicles. In a race application, the brake pads will glaze from the extreme braking conditions. The slots are designed to "slice" the glaze off, thus allowing the pads to work as normal. The "drilled" holes are designed to keep the rotors cooler by allowing heat to disapate. The holes also allow the "gases" that build up between a normal rotor and pad to escape through th holes. These gases are what cause "brake fade", it's not necessarily that they are fading, it's just that they are getting so hot that gases build up and cause a little cushion so to speak, not allowing the brake pad to contact the rotor in the correct way.
Now... in normal driving conditions, the "slots" will apparently slice away your brake pads a lot quicker than a standard rotor or a drilled rotor. This got me thinking, that realistically, I probably would just wanted a good drilled rotor and not one with the slots in it.
I just read about this above information yesterday and thought I'd share it with anyone who is considering a slotted / drilled rotor. I think I'm in the market for just a drilled rotor now.
I got over 100,000 kms (that's about 62,000 miles) from my original pads/rotors. I think I paid about $300 inc. shipping for a full set of R1 rotors & pads all around and installed them myself in about 1.5 hours (could do it faster next time).
So if they wear 25% faster (just a number I'm throwing out) and I only get 75,000 kms, am I worried?
-GT
So if they wear 25% faster (just a number I'm throwing out) and I only get 75,000 kms, am I worried?
-GT
Hey guys I was looking to upgrade to this set up too,i found these on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CADI...ryZ33564QQihZ012QQitemZ220161353936QQtcZphoto
what pads are yaul using and how is the dust build up on the rims?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CADI...ryZ33564QQihZ012QQitemZ220161353936QQtcZphoto
what pads are yaul using and how is the dust build up on the rims?
That is true. However the difference is minimun buddy. You are not going to notice much difference in brake pad life when comparing slotted rotors vs blank rotors. Only if you are on a track racing your vehicle is when you notice the brake pad life has decreased more than the other.I read something yesterday about the "slotted" rotors which I found interesting.
The "slots" are designed for race vehicles. In a race application, the brake pads will glaze from the extreme braking conditions. The slots are designed to "slice" the glaze off, thus allowing the pads to work as normal. The "drilled" holes are designed to keep the rotors cooler by allowing heat to disapate. The holes also allow the "gases" that build up between a normal rotor and pad to escape through th holes. These gases are what cause "brake fade", it's not necessarily that they are fading, it's just that they are getting so hot that gases build up and cause a little cushion so to speak, not allowing the brake pad to contact the rotor in the correct way.
Now... in normal driving conditions, the "slots" will apparently slice away your brake pads a lot quicker than a standard rotor or a drilled rotor. This got me thinking, that realistically, I probably would just wanted a good drilled rotor and not one with the slots in it.
I just read about this above information yesterday and thought I'd share it with anyone who is considering a slotted / drilled rotor. I think I'm in the market for just a drilled rotor now.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
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