[neurotictim]

Hey guys, I've been lurking but haven't had anything interesting to post for a while.

I finally got around to adding subs to my ride. If you aren't aware, I'm kind of an audio guy, lol. My CTS had around $8k in audio, competing in SQ classes. This time I went much simpler, with a far lower budget, just adding subs.

Anyway, I'm running a pair of Digital Designs 600 series 12s in a 4" aero ported box, on a Digital Designs M1c amp hooked in parallel with an Xstatic Batcap Power Pack (for the heavier draw situations). Input is coming from a Audiocontrol LCi2 that has been tapped into the rear door speakers, which converts line level to sub outputs as a Line Output Converter. The port fires up into the cabin through the OEM sub cutout.

I'll post pics when I get the chance, but first a question:

Can anyone identify/have a pic of the actual subwoofer amp? I understand that it's on the back deck somewhere, ostensibly attached to the OEM sub. The issue is that the OEM sub had been removed by a previous owner, and we (the shop I took the car with, who are also friends of mine) had to dig around for a while just to find a usable signal for the LOC. I don't feel like the back door speakers are the best for snagging signal; the LCi2 is all the way up and I'm just not getting the output I should - I think the signal is too low for the LOC to really put out a solid signal. Gain on the amp is matched to the input signal, and what's coming out of the LOC is considerably less than the 9ish volts it's supposed to output.

Alternatively, are the door subs self-contained as well? If there is an amp I can tap off of for them, they should provide enough voltage for a solid signal source.

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[PORGUY]

Hey guys, I've been lurking but haven't had anything interesting to post for a while.

I finally got around to adding subs to my ride. If you aren't aware, I'm kind of an audio guy, lol. My CTS had around $8k in audio, competing in SQ classes. This time I went much simpler, with a far lower budget, just adding subs.

Anyway, I'm running a pair of Digital Designs 600 series 12s in a 4" aero ported box, on a Digital Designs M1c amp hooked in parallel with an Xstatic Batcap Power Pack (for the heavier draw situations). Input is coming from a Audiocontrol LCi2 that has been tapped into the rear door speakers, which converts line level to sub outputs as a Line Output Converter. The port fires up into the cabin through the OEM sub cutout.

I'll post pics when I get the chance, but first a question:

Can anyone identify/have a pic of the actual subwoofer amp? I understand that it's on the back deck somewhere, ostensibly attached to the OEM sub. The issue is that the OEM sub had been removed by a previous owner, and we (the shop I took the car with, who are also friends of mine) had to dig around for a while just to find a usable signal for the LOC. I don't feel like the back door speakers are the best for snagging signal; the LCi2 is all the way up and I'm just not getting the output I should - I think the signal is too low for the LOC to really put out a solid signal. Gain on the amp is matched to the input signal, and what's coming out of the LOC is considerably less than the 9ish volts it's supposed to output.

Alternatively, are the door subs self-contained as well? If there is an amp I can tap off of for them, they should provide enough voltage for a solid signal source.

Thanks in advance for your help!

I'm pretty sure the sub amp is built into the sub its self,so if you just tap into the wires feeding the sub it will give you the low level signal you need and it's already crossed over.....

 

[neurotictim]

OEM sub is gone, so that sort of rules that out. If the amp is built straight into the sub, and the OEM sub is gone, then it looks like I'm going after a signal from the door subs. Do you happen to know if those have built in amps as well?

 

[baller95]

There's no wires going to where the sub was? I'm going to be putting a setup in my car later as well and was thinking that the signal going to the factory sub/amp can be used for RCA level in for an aftermarket amp.

 

[neurotictim]

There's a harness that goes to nothing, 4 wires, which made me think it may have been the connection for the OEM sub. The problem with this theory is that I didn't get any usable voltage from any pin while the stereo was running, so I'm not convinced that it's actually part of the stereo wiring. As it stands I DO get a signal from tapping the rear door speaker wires from the amp in the driver side trunk wall, but I don't think it's strong enough to drive my LOC. I may have to dig out the meter leads and start poking around again, it's starting to get nice enough to do it outside.

 

[Ludacrisvp]

Not sure if this will help you:

Here you can see the Sub in the middle with the AMP mounted inside the cone of the woofer:

Here are the details on the plug:

As this is made to be amplified can you not simply connect these wires to the low level input on the amp?
When I tried to connect an aftermarket sub in the 02 DTS I had I originally tried disconnecting the OEM sub and redirecting that high level output into a line level convertor, however what I realized was that once the OEM sub was disconnected the output to those wires was disabled by the car's amp. I'm not sure if the STS behaves the same but with them both being BOSE I would not be surprised if output to the sub is disabled because the amp is not detected on the GMLan.

 

[PORGUY]

There's a harness that goes to nothing, 4 wires, which made me think it may have been the connection for the OEM sub. The problem with this theory is that I didn't get any usable voltage from any pin while the stereo was running, so I'm not convinced that it's actually part of the stereo wiring. As it stands I DO get a signal from tapping the rear door speaker wires from the amp in the driver side trunk wall, but I don't think it's strong enough to drive my LOC. I may have to dig out the meter leads and start poking around again, it's starting to get nice enough to do it outside.

The factory amp is located in the trunk on the left behind the trim.
I believe the rear sub wires are blue and green...they are thicker..
I have a wiring diagram for the stereo but can't get to it right now....

 

[Jailtime]

The front door woofers and rear deck sub have their own amps. Should be a 5 pin connector pictured above for the rear deck sub. I've done a hell of a lot of digging around in this audio system to try to get my front door woofers to work. Good luck getting anything to play nice.

 

[lamrith]

When I tried to connect an aftermarket sub in the 02 DTS I had I originally tried disconnecting the OEM sub and redirecting that high level output into a line level convertor, however what I realized was that once the OEM sub was disconnected the output to those wires was disabled by the car's amp. I'm not sure if the STS behaves the same but with them both being BOSE I would not be surprised if output to the sub is disabled because the amp is not detected on the GMLan.

Is there a way that the Glam could be fooled into sending the signal without the factory amp being plugged in? Maybe some sort of resistor so that the GMlan sees a circuit, or is it the middle control wire?

I was noticing yesterday that my car lacks the low end depth I like.
I cranked the bass to almost max and the midrange to 1/2 up to max in the radio and it helped, but a bit more Ummmmphh would be nice and I am sure easy to achieve with aftermarket upgrade of even a small sub.

 

[Ludacrisvp]

Is there a way that the Glam could be fooled into sending the signal without the factory amp being plugged in? Maybe some sort of resistor so that the GMlan sees a circuit, or is it the middle control wire?

I was noticing yesterday that my car lacks the low end depth I like.
I cranked the bass to almost max and the midrange to 1/2 up to max in the radio and it helped, but a bit more Ummmmphh would be nice and I am sure easy to achieve with aftermarket upgrade of even a small sub.

A resistor isn't going to broadcast any ID or module info to the network. I've noticed that lowering the mids allows more power to go into the lows. I've got lows at 1 notch less than max and mids at 1/4th from the bottom and the highs up at about 3/4th. Also your DSP settings will change the amount of bass you feel as well.

 

[StealthyOne]

Erased post.
Obsolete

 

[Ludacrisvp]

Sorry to partially hijack, but on the equalizer display the sub level is grayed out and disabled. The highs, Mids, and Bass are adjustable, but the fourth and lowest "slider" is non-functioning.

The bottom slider controls "Center Point" DSP setting only. It is not the 'subwoofer' control.

 

[StealthyOne]

Yeah, I broke out the Nav owner's manual. Sorry for the obsolete posting, and thank you for response.
Should've taken the time to read a little before asking unnecessary question.

 

[Rboughne1]

I lost my heavy bass / subwoofer a while back. Checked the fuse under the rear seat and it is good. Turned the Bass up and the door units mitigate some of the loss, but not nearly enough. In your expert opinions, as I am NOT an A/V expert, do I look at the amp under the left rear trunk trim, or is it a better bet the a cable is disconnected behind the head unit?

 

[lamrith]

A resistor isn't going to broadcast any ID or module info to the network. I've noticed that lowering the mids allows more power to go into the lows. I've got lows at 1 notch less than max and mids at 1/4th from the bottom and the highs up at about 3/4th. Also your DSP settings will change the amount of bass you feel as well.

Ahh true true.. I figured I would ask. Maybe that means removing the amp from the speaker somehow and stashing it then installing a amp&Sub in place of the old Sub and piggybacking off the signal wires..

I will also try the settings mentioned to see if I get more output.

 

[neurotictim]

Rboughne1, it is almost 100% for sure NOT disconnected behind the head unit. I'm willing to bet your sub amp or the connection to it is shot.

So I've toyed with the idea of digging into the doors for signal, but the rubber boot is very tightly fit and I am not gonna jury-rig this thing. I'm looking at package trays with subwoofer, or just buying a used OEM sub, from eBay. The problem is that this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-CADILL...65?fits=Model:STS&hash=item5b0af9eac9&vxp=mtr

doesn't look like Ludacrisp's posted pic.

This looks more correct.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/06-STS-BOSE...Parts_Accessories&hash=item417ef01f9d&vxp=mtr

So I guess, unless any of you other fellas have a better idea or alternative, I'm going to snag this and see what happens.

 

[Ludacrisvp]

Rboughne1, it is almost 100% for sure NOT disconnected behind the head unit. I'm willing to bet your sub amp or the connection to it is shot.

So I've toyed with the idea of digging into the doors for signal, but the rubber boot is very tightly fit and I am not gonna jury-rig this thing. I'm looking at package trays with subwoofer, or just buying a used OEM sub, from eBay. The problem is that this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-CADILL...65?fits=Model:STS&hash=item5b0af9eac9&vxp=mtr

doesn't look like Ludacrisp's posted pic.

This looks more correct.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/06-STS-BOSE...Parts_Accessories&hash=item417ef01f9d&vxp=mtr

So I guess, unless any of you other fellas have a better idea or alternative, I'm going to snag this and see what happens.

If you have the 15 speaker Bose system you want this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281302540189

If you have the 8 speaker Bose system you want this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391026174665
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281271890360

Considering this is the V section you have the 15 speaker system so you need the first one ... you can just remove the sub and amp from the new tray and place it into yours, there is no need to swap out the entire thing.