Thanks for the replies everyone. I apologize for the delay in my reply. I finally got the overheating under control at the moment.Radiator is not the orig, but it has the same amount of rows and has metal tanks. Would have soldered on the tanks from the orig. my self and just orderd a new core, but they too were damaged from age and previous leaks, etc. the new one did not have a heater return built in so i put a T in my heater and just looped back onto it's self leaving the HCV in place. I believe its circulating correctly, but maybe it could be effecting the temp.. I don't know absolutely. As far as the HCV and its function being effected, it seems to operate normally as well. The Cooling system as a whole was a lot cleaner than I thought it would be after having it sit for almost a year. I went ahead and pulled a freeze plug that was developing a leak in the rear of the block and flushed the system out completely! Twice before replacing all the components that i replaced and before ever cranked the engine. My dad was a radiator man for a good part of my growing up, so I learned a thing or two and he would give me like five bucks for every radiator I rodded out for him in the summers. I wished I had learned a thing or four, because before I bought my '68 and stared to try and get it back up to a maintainable standard, that thing or two amounted to some guy named jack and one of his friends. I still don't think I know jack or his friend. It helps me learn faster if i just go ahead and admit that right off the bat when facing a problem I can't solve. Anyway, back to business! I am sure I solved my problem by replacing some of my old ignition components. Had to get new plugs, points, wires, coil. rotor, and set the timing the best I could by ear. No pinging or nothing. Just an air leak in my carb or something. Like its discharging air out of the side of its self before the air gets a chance to do what it does on it's way to meet it's fate with the fuel. Don't know exactly where it's coming from but it's on the choke side near the fast idle mechanism. Either at the gasket, or the actual throttle body its self. It's really annoying to me now to hear leaks like that. I used to not know what that sound sounded like, or weather it was good or bad.lol. After I got the timing and ignition/electric figured out and functioning properly I no longer overheats. I still have the Generator light issue???? I swear I have every thing wired properly except for the neutral safety switch. I purchased the car like this and haven't got to messing that part yet. Would this be causing the gen light to stay on? I don't ever remember seeing it on before? I just had my alternator rebuilt by most highly recommended dude in town. Hes been in business for 30+ years and I have always taken my starters and alts there. I Put a new voltage regulator in last night too. I'm almost ready to pull the engine out and do this for real. I ought to have a brand new Deville with some machine work and a rebuild kit ya think? It only has 70,000 to begin with. I just lack the knowledge and experience.I have zero guidance at this point. No friends or family around that can even touch my little, newly gained knowledge pertaining to the subj, and I ain't gonna sell it till I get to show room status by putting work and doing it correctly. Sometimes doing things the correct way is a pain in the arse, but from my little experience always worth the effort in the long run. If the people who don't do things correctly make their way correct first. If that happens I'm done with this crap!lol
