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Discussion Starter #1
I own a 1968 sedan deville. I have just rebuilt my front end. Ditched my ac, Put in a brand new radiator, water pump, and thermostat. Still having overheating problems! Gen light stays on. I read in another post that a guy reset his external regulator but mine was not tripped or whatever. I think honestly its a vacuum issue. Anyone have any insight on this? Replaced my temp and oil sending units even. I am new to being a mechanic but am a very apt and am a good problem solver but this is beyond me! Thank you in advance.
 

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After hours of searching not only this site, but a ton of other sites as well. I think I may have started to weed this overheating problem of mine out. I am still having trouble with the vacuum setup at this time. I have been reading up on quite of bit of literature on the subject, but there is something I'm not seeing. Since I made the mistake of taking my compressor off and not paying attention to what it was I was doing, I screwed everything up as far a the vacuum system goes. I just need a little guidance is all. I understand the distributor advance vacuum controls the timing correct? And that normally on my vehicle it goes on a ported valve, but in this case running it straight from the manifold for troubleshooting would be wise, reason being if the vacuum lines are jacked up somewhere else it wont interfere with the advance. Please correct me if I am wrong, because I am only going off things I have read in some manuals. Still dont understand the whole concept.. I dropped my ac and heater fuse from a 25amp to 15 amp since i removed my ac. The H.c.v. and t.v.s's are good. Pcv valve is new. all vacuum lines are new. Transmission vacuum line and manifold to booster line are correct. Its just the smog pump, choke, and couple more I just cant seem to guess at. I hate to even try start my car without these lines correct. They are what i think are causing all my problems. i.e. overheating, rough idol, poor mileage. Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated. If I have violated some forum rule or something I apologize. Just trying to fix my caddy the correct way. I've been a member of this site for a few months now and I will always search for the answers i need as opposed to just asking someone. Just need some guidance thats all. Am I in the wrong forum????? I don't get it.
 

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1968 Convertible
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268 Posts
James ask this in the 19xx to 1984 Deville Fleetwood thread. More people are just on that one for some reason.

Even 60s owners.
 

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1970 calais coupe
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346 Posts
Hi James...pls don't take offence if this seems a silly answer...

Loose drive belt for the alternator / water pump could produce overheating AND a charge light staying on...

just my $0.02 AUD
 

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1975 hearse, 1976 hearse
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865 Posts
there are quite a few things to cause the 472 to run hot. make sure the radiator is the correct one, for a climate control equipped car. ignition timing is crucial as is carb jetting. water pump ok? air in the cooling system? the 472 is not a trouble prone engine, so this problem is exacerbated by some external cause. I'm hoping the block isn't filled with rust, scale, lime deposits, etc which could be a real headache.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies everyone. I apologize for the delay in my reply. I finally got the overheating under control at the moment.Radiator is not the orig, but it has the same amount of rows and has metal tanks. Would have soldered on the tanks from the orig. my self and just orderd a new core, but they too were damaged from age and previous leaks, etc. the new one did not have a heater return built in so i put a T in my heater and just looped back onto it's self leaving the HCV in place. I believe its circulating correctly, but maybe it could be effecting the temp.. I don't know absolutely. As far as the HCV and its function being effected, it seems to operate normally as well. The Cooling system as a whole was a lot cleaner than I thought it would be after having it sit for almost a year. I went ahead and pulled a freeze plug that was developing a leak in the rear of the block and flushed the system out completely! Twice before replacing all the components that i replaced and before ever cranked the engine. My dad was a radiator man for a good part of my growing up, so I learned a thing or two and he would give me like five bucks for every radiator I rodded out for him in the summers. I wished I had learned a thing or four, because before I bought my '68 and stared to try and get it back up to a maintainable standard, that thing or two amounted to some guy named jack and one of his friends. I still don't think I know jack or his friend. It helps me learn faster if i just go ahead and admit that right off the bat when facing a problem I can't solve. Anyway, back to business! I am sure I solved my problem by replacing some of my old ignition components. Had to get new plugs, points, wires, coil. rotor, and set the timing the best I could by ear. No pinging or nothing. Just an air leak in my carb or something. Like its discharging air out of the side of its self before the air gets a chance to do what it does on it's way to meet it's fate with the fuel. Don't know exactly where it's coming from but it's on the choke side near the fast idle mechanism. Either at the gasket, or the actual throttle body its self. It's really annoying to me now to hear leaks like that. I used to not know what that sound sounded like, or weather it was good or bad.lol. After I got the timing and ignition/electric figured out and functioning properly I no longer overheats. I still have the Generator light issue???? I swear I have every thing wired properly except for the neutral safety switch. I purchased the car like this and haven't got to messing that part yet. Would this be causing the gen light to stay on? I don't ever remember seeing it on before? I just had my alternator rebuilt by most highly recommended dude in town. Hes been in business for 30+ years and I have always taken my starters and alts there. I Put a new voltage regulator in last night too. I'm almost ready to pull the engine out and do this for real. I ought to have a brand new Deville with some machine work and a rebuild kit ya think? It only has 70,000 to begin with. I just lack the knowledge and experience.I have zero guidance at this point. No friends or family around that can even touch my little, newly gained knowledge pertaining to the subj, and I ain't gonna sell it till I get to show room status by putting work and doing it correctly. Sometimes doing things the correct way is a pain in the arse, but from my little experience always worth the effort in the long run. If the people who don't do things correctly make their way correct first. If that happens I'm done with this crap!lol
 
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