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2004 Black on Beige CTS-V
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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I torqued one of the studs too hard while tightening my B&B the other day and it snapped. It is the stud that comes out of the headers, past the cats, and is used to mate the exhaust to the header.

My question is this: How hard is it to get the rest of the stud out?? I noticed there is another nut inbetween the exhaust flange and the header flange. Can you use that to extract the stud? If not, it is pretty likely that I can get it out with a pair of vice-grip pliers?? Is this something that I can do myself or should I take it to a muffler shop?

Well thanks for any replies. I did a search already and I am glad to know I am not the only one that has done this.
 

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crazyfast said:
Well, I torqued one of the studs too hard while tightening my B&B the other day and it snapped. It is the stud that comes out of the headers, past the cats, and is used to mate the exhaust to the header.

My question is this: How hard is it to get the rest of the stud out?? I noticed there is another nut inbetween the exhaust flange and the header flange. Can you use that to extract the stud? If not, it is pretty likely that I can get it out with a pair of vice-grip pliers?? Is this something that I can do myself or should I take it to a muffler shop?

Well thanks for any replies. I did a search already and I am glad to know I am not the only one that has done this.
You could probably take the stud out using that nut. Have you tried putting some heat on it and taking it out?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the quick reply. Actually, I broke it off last weekend and left it because I didn't know what to do and I didn't have a replacement yet. I just ordered a new stud off GMPD yesterday and will try to extract the old one when I get the new one in. I was just wondering how hard it would be.

Another question: I know the exhuast will leak a little bit without the bolt there to hold it tight. There is still one bolt on the other side of the one I broke off. Will this slight leak hurt the exhuast system at all? I will get it replaced as soon as possible, but it might be another week or so.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Heavy, you scared the hell out of me for a while there....

By the way, my father owns a Harley with the Screamin Eagle setup on it, so I know what they sound like. I will continue to listen for that sound :D
 

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crazyfast said:
Thanks for the quick reply. Actually, I broke it off last weekend and left it because I didn't know what to do and I didn't have a replacement yet. I just ordered a new stud off GMPD yesterday and will try to extract the old one when I get the new one in. I was just wondering how hard it would be.

Another question: I know the exhuast will leak a little bit without the bolt there to hold it tight. There is still one bolt on the other side of the one I broke off. Will this slight leak hurt the exhuast system at all? I will get it replaced as soon as possible, but it might be another week or so.

Thanks again.
It wont hurt anything.
 

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The holes in all of these flanges are so large, I gave them a slight filing and installed 7/16 hardened bolts. Now they are nice and tight. With stainless, if it galls up your'e screwed. Snap em off and replace.
 

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The way the exhaust bolts up is very retarded. I broke one while installing mine also. So I just sat the exhaust on the floor real quick and replaced them all w/ bolts.
 

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The factory studs are threaded into the flange. If there is still enough left to grab onto, a vise grips should be able to turn it out.

As a temporary solution, one can use a 5/16 x 2" SST bolt to clamp the exhaust as shown in the following photo...

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Stealth or others,
I looked at the picture you posted and the nut doesn't look like it is fully threaded onto the end of the bolt. As a more permanent solution, what would be the largest bolt I could stick through the hole without having to file at all, or what size would you suggest to hold it most securely?? I now plan on pulling all the studs and replacing them all with grade 8 bolts. Would a 3/8 x 2.5" bolt work with some thread to spare??

Thanks guys.
 

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crushing Vs with my Wurm
2013 GT500 - 700+ HP
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heavymetals said:
The two bolt exhaust flange is bad enough with two.
With only one attached you are courting disaster, although probably the worst that will/can happen is that it disconnects and makes a hell of a racket.
Then you will know what a HARLEY is like!
LOL
I had an exhaust pipe on my Harley wiggle its way out of the cylinder (turns out that the mfgr that made my pipe didnt properly finish the bend and it was off about 2 degrees) and it sounded like a jackhammer on one of those metal street plates or manhole cover...freaking LOUD. Plus, you have to shut it down or you run the risk of sucking cool air back into the cyl. and creating all sorts of havoc.

F
 

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crazyfast said:
Stealth or others,
I looked at the picture you posted and the nut doesn't look like it is fully threaded onto the end of the bolt. As a more permanent solution, what would be the largest bolt I could stick through the hole without having to file at all, or what size would you suggest to hold it most securely?? I now plan on pulling all the studs and replacing them all with grade 8 bolts. Would a 3/8 x 2.5" bolt work with some thread to spare??

Thanks guys.
YOU need to do very little filing to get a 7/16 thru there. If you tap it with a hammar it will go thru. Of course the is for the aftermarker exhaust and RT cats. A thru bolt is used. Factory cats, you have to get OEM studs they are hardened.
 
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