[Mud]

Recent acquisition of an 86 Fleetwood Brougham posted here:http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/rwd-19xx-1985-deville-fleetwood-1985/111540-86-fleetwood-new-addition.html

I was going to get the part number of a NAPA rebuild kit but found 2 choices:

w/ Carburetor # 17086008, 17086009, 17088115, 17111472, 17111487, 17111994 w/ Carburetor # E4MC w/ Carburetor # E4ME Rochester $26.99

w/ Rochester Carburetor w/ Carburetor Type: R-4 w/ Carburetor # 17086008, 17086009, 17088115 $45.99

As far as I know, it appears that the 307 in my car has the E4MC carb - I can see the mix solenoid, and TPS switch mounted on it. Number on my carb is 17086008. So it looks like the $26.99 kit is the right one? Quite a difference in cost between the kits - I would pay the higher one if it was a more complete kit though.

Am I on the right track here?

 

[Mud]

I can see that nobody had an answer - that's OK. Here's some info in case you are in the same boat.

I went ahead and got the $26.99 kit and it was fine for the application. Carb is done and is sitting on my bench ready to re-install, but I need to do a couple of things on the engine while the carb is off. I was getting a 21 code CEL - short in TPS - so I replaced the TPS switch. Choke pull-off was bad so that was replaced too. Carb is a little tricky with the computer control idle solenoid, hopefully it is in better shape now than when I started. It definitely needed a rebuilt, leaky and wheezy. I also epoxied all the plugs on the bottom of the float body while it was apart.

While it's out I will clean the EGR passages (new EGR valve was needed too). Choke hot air feed lines are in good shape, just need a little cleaning. I will also pull and check the distributor for good operation while the carb is out. They tend to get a little gummed up over time.

 

[davedbusman]

I don't know if you cleaned the EGR passages with wire but that should be done too. Also it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the rear pull-off too. In cold weather this pulls the choke open slightly 15 seconds after the engine is started to prevent black smoke, rough running, and stalling. There is an alignment procedure in the service manual to adjust the carb after it is put back on. I did it to my Oldsmobile. But if it runs well after you put it on, good enough. Hope this helps.

 

[Mud]

Yes, thanks.

EGR passages were actually fairly clean, but I did em anyway just to be sure.
I have checked all vacuum pots on the carb, rear pull-off works fine, replaced the front. Idle solenoid was OK as well. Everything has been adjusted on the bench per specs but I will need to check adjustments plus set idle mix, TPS, etc once I get it back on the car. I went ahead and ordered the Q-jet adjustment tool set to make my life easier.

I also replaced every vacuum line on the engine so I will know that they are all good. O2 sensor was replaced, old one was not that old, but VERY sooted up - glad I went through the carb. Replacing plugs/wires/rotor/cap as well to ensure I start clean with a thorough tune-up, then will check/set timing. Distributor is thankfully not gummed up, moves freely.

I am very fortunate that nobody has monkeyed around with vacuum lines, etc so essentially the entire setup was still in factory configuration. It has had maintenance, but looks like on an as-needed basis by JiffyLube jockeys. My goal is to take it to a higher level!