Yes you can stay out of boost while driving, but it's likely the car wasn't warmed up enough for boost. These cars won't make much (if any) boost until your engine oil temp is above 170 degrees. The gauge isn't broken, you probably didn't have the engine up to temp.
Purchasing 2016 ATS-V, Concerns
Hey Ladies and Gents!
I'm looking to buy a 2016 ATS-V manual, build date 10/15 in-service June 20, 2016. I currently own an ATS 2.0T. The car is being sold by a dealership that got the vehicle from a private dealer auction and the car was previously owned by Cadillac Executive. Went to go take a look at it and had a few questions. I only had about an hour to look, test drive and leave. On the walk around I noticed the front right fender didn't match exactly with the body line. After looking a little closer I noticed that the panel had been removed and put back on. I noticed that the bolts that hold the fender on had been taken out and put back in. The paint match, even with a paint thickness measuring tool and the all so accurate "eye test", was excellent. Hence, I believe that it is the original panel without dent or paint fixing. So I think the fender was removed then put back on to get at something underneath, but put back on without much concern for detail. Any idea if anyone has reported problems on the '16 ATS-V that requires the front right fender to be removed?
The car has 13,000 miles and already has significant tire wear with small amounts of cupping on the rear tires and uneven wear on the rear tires toward the outside edge (more wear on the outside than inside), tires mounted normally. Alignment looked fine, but don't really know without an alignment test. I would imagine that was from burnouts and fun-having by the original owner (don't blame him/her!). The brakes had normal wear from what I could see, but still waiting on a brake wear measurement. Anything else I may be missing here?
The last question, during the test drive, in normal (touring?) mode, while on dry roads with speed limit of 45 mph, I got on it a few times, but never WOT. The boost gauge didn't show anything other than 0 psi. No lights on dash, but didn't get a chance to see if it was throwing any codes. Is it even possible to drive around at normal city speeds and driving like grandpa and keep it out of boost? I would think not, but regardless, I still got on it a few times and even braking traction in first and second gear. Anyone have problems with digital boost gauge not getting a read out?
Thanks in advance!
CoMo
I'm looking to buy a 2016 ATS-V manual, build date 10/15 in-service June 20, 2016. I currently own an ATS 2.0T. The car is being sold by a dealership that got the vehicle from a private dealer auction and the car was previously owned by Cadillac Executive. Went to go take a look at it and had a few questions. I only had about an hour to look, test drive and leave. On the walk around I noticed the front right fender didn't match exactly with the body line. After looking a little closer I noticed that the panel had been removed and put back on. I noticed that the bolts that hold the fender on had been taken out and put back in. The paint match, even with a paint thickness measuring tool and the all so accurate "eye test", was excellent. Hence, I believe that it is the original panel without dent or paint fixing. So I think the fender was removed then put back on to get at something underneath, but put back on without much concern for detail. Any idea if anyone has reported problems on the '16 ATS-V that requires the front right fender to be removed?
The car has 13,000 miles and already has significant tire wear with small amounts of cupping on the rear tires and uneven wear on the rear tires toward the outside edge (more wear on the outside than inside), tires mounted normally. Alignment looked fine, but don't really know without an alignment test. I would imagine that was from burnouts and fun-having by the original owner (don't blame him/her!). The brakes had normal wear from what I could see, but still waiting on a brake wear measurement. Anything else I may be missing here?
The last question, during the test drive, in normal (touring?) mode, while on dry roads with speed limit of 45 mph, I got on it a few times, but never WOT. The boost gauge didn't show anything other than 0 psi. No lights on dash, but didn't get a chance to see if it was throwing any codes. Is it even possible to drive around at normal city speeds and driving like grandpa and keep it out of boost? I would think not, but regardless, I still got on it a few times and even braking traction in first and second gear. Anyone have problems with digital boost gauge not getting a read out?
Thanks in advance!
CoMo
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Shut up Justin.Like he said, easy to drive around in no boost if it wasnt warmed up and if you didnt lay into it to much.
The factory designs things pretty conservative so you have to lay the hammer down pretty good to really get into boost with these.
The stock ECU really doesn't like to make boost, you really have to get on the throttle for it to make boost, also consider your driving mode. It requires MUCH more pedal input in tour mode to make boost as compared to Sport or Track, as you go up in driving modes, the car is more and more readily willing to make boost with barely touching the pedal.Thanks for the heads up! The engine was definitely at normal operating temp. I had it idling for 15-20 minutes prior to driving; however, it's possible I just didn't get on it hard enough, speed limit 35 to 45 and all, or the boost is affected by the mode it's currently in.
1 - 3 of 10 Posts
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