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Help! Am I reading in this post that keyless entry was not standard on Cadillac Fleetwoods in 1994!? I like some other comments on here have taken out the entire interior lining of my cars trunk and NO connector to do the programming. When I bought my car from the original owners, there were no remotes so I just bought some OEM ones off eBay. I have seen some posts across the web about programming key fobs on 1993 Fleetwoods using a jump wire in the OBD under the dash.. my car is a 1994 built in 12/93 so thought it retained some 1993 items like the key fob programming.. but following those instructions did not start the programming cycle. Has anyone had this same problem that they have solved or was this truly an option that my car may not have!? I would be shocked if that were the case because key fobs were standard on Lincoln (even the base Executive Series) starting 1990. I was in the limousine business from 1989 till 2010 and bought new TC’s all the time. Can’t believe Cadillac would be that far behind by 1994. Please help if you can! Thanks!
 

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From what I have seen if a car came with remotes it wil have a plate lock to get to the gas cap. If you open the trunk and on the left side there is a lever to lock and unlock the plate from going down and getting to the gas cap, if you have the lever it came with a remote. Not there your going to have to put on a aftermarket.
 

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Anybody have a tutorial or directions on how to program a new remote? Thanks!
I tried to have one key fob programmed for one Caddy, to another, the guy popped my trunk, connecting his laptop to a port in the wiring harness in the trunk???
I was dismayed by this but went on and let him do his thing.
Bad decision, Not only did he not program the fob, but he mess up the connection to the electric closing trunk.
I ended up taking the car to the dealership to straighten out this error ($800.00)
The company that the guy worked for paid for it.
Just beware of people who think they know more about this car than the dealership.....take to the dealership first.
 

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Help! Am I reading in this post that keyless entry was not standard on Cadillac Fleetwoods in 1994!? I like some other comments on here have taken out the entire interior lining of my cars trunk and NO connector to do the programming. When I bought my car from the original owners, there were no remotes so I just bought some OEM ones off eBay. I have seen some posts across the web about programming key fobs on 1993 Fleetwoods using a jump wire in the OBD under the dash.. my car is a 1994 built in 12/93 so thought it retained some 1993 items like the key fob programming.. but following those instructions did not start the programming cycle. Has anyone had this same problem that they have solved or was this truly an option that my car may not have!? I would be shocked if that were the case because key fobs were standard on Lincoln (even the base Executive Series) starting 1990. I was in the limousine business from 1989 till 2010 and bought new TC’s all the time. Can’t believe Cadillac would be that far behind by 1994. Please help if you can! Thanks!
There is a port connected to the wiring harness in the trunk, but I recommend take to a professional first.
Then there are new aftermarket digital Keyless entry systems you can purchase,
But do you really want to incur the expense would be the question to answer for yourself.
 

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1996 Fleetwood hearse
1996 Cadillac Fleetwood Superior Coach Hearse Conversion
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1996 Fleetwood hearse
1996 Cadillac Fleetwood Superior Coach Hearse Conversion
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I didn't know that you could only have two fobs per Fleetwood....Good to Know
I have 3 but it would only allow me to program 2 of them. I had one to begin with and got 2 more off eBay very reasonably priced for spares. The wire took a little time as mine is a hearse but I got it and they both work.
 

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There is a port connected to the wiring harness in the trunk, but I recommend take to a professional first.
Then there are new aftermarket digital Keyless entry systems you can purchase,
But do you really want to incur the expense would be the question to answer for yourself.
I will take a pic and send to you later today......
 

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From what I have seen if a car came with remotes it wil have a plate lock to get to the gas cap. If you open the trunk and on the left side there is a lever to lock and unlock the plate from going down and getting to the gas cap, if you have the lever it came with a remote. Not there your going to have to put on a aftermarket.
Not so. The lock for the rear plate cover to the tank file was part of the Security System Option which also had the horn beeping if the car is breached without the key or remote being used. RKE is separate from the Security system and was offered without it, but I think to have the serucity system you also have to have RKE. My 1995 had RKE but not the Serucity system. My 1996 has both. and my fobs are still not working.
 

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Is the procedure Identical for a 1996? My RKE system in completely inoperative.
 

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Good to know Mike... Here is another tibbit, I had a alarm going off at anytime day or night. Searched and checked everything. After many days I found it was the trunk lid switch. Just another thing to check if you have that problem.
 

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I have 3 but it would only allow me to program 2 of them. I had one to begin with and got 2 more off eBay very reasonably priced for spares. The wire took a little time as mine is a hearse but I got it and they both work.
I can't find the wire on my Hearse to program my keeps entry remotes can you help me out?
 

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I can't find the wire on my Hearse to program my keeps entry remotes can you help me out?
I'm not sure where it is on Hearses. Verify that yours actually has the RKE option.
 

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Re: Program Key fob for Cadillac Fleetwood 1994

1. The ignition must be in the "run" position.
2. Find the programming connector that is hanging off a wire harness on the upper left side of the trunk by the left hand hinge. Its a 2-pin male connector with two black-with-white-stripe wires. (*)
3. When you short these two pins together with a screwdriver or shorting plug, the RCDLR will cycle the lock and trunk solenoids to confirm it is ready. This connector will need to remain shorted until your are finished programming the remotes.
4. Pressing any key (only once) on either remote will program that remote to the RCDLR. You will need to re-program both remotes once you begin the procedure. The RCDLR will only remember the last two (2) remotes programmed. Any transmitter codes that were previously programmed will be ereased.
5. The locks will cycle lock-unlock after each remote is programmed to confirm that it register its signal. Once the shorting plug is removed the alarm will sound for 1 second - this indicates that the system is ready. The system will not operate if the shorting plug is not removed.

To disable the automatic unlock-in-park feature:

1. After the last remote is programmed, but before you un-short the programming connector, press the following sequence three (3) times on a remote:
* lock, unlock, trunk
2. The RCDLR will cycle the door locks and trunk release solenoids three times to confirm at the end of the sequence.

To re-enable the unlock-in-park feature of, just repeat the above to reprogram the RCDLR to your remotes, but don't do the special three-button-three-times sequence.

You can match a transmitter to as many different vehicles as you own, provided they are equipped with exactly the same model system.

Reviving Dead Key Fobs

If you suspect the key fob itself isn�t working, the dealership's parts department has a device that will check to see if it is indeed functioning (transmitting) properly. If you have a frequency counter you can check it as well, output is in the 318-320 MHz range. The couple that I've check have been 318.990 & 319.075 MHz - note that no matter which button you press (light, unlock, lock, trunk open, etc.) the transmit frequency does not change.

If they're still not working (after installing fresh batteries) and you feel like messing around with it a little, take the key fob totally apart and clean the contact points behind the rubber membrane and the brass etchings on printed-circuit (PC) board - this may be just enough to bring it back to life! Moisture intrusion and the resulting corrosion on the contacts is usually the culprit in a lot of "not working" situations.
I found the connector in my 1996 Fleetwood Brougham. Same two little wires in it.

When then manual says Ground the connector, I assumed that it meant connect the wires to chassis ground. Are we just supposed to short those two wires together?

I tried that as well, and the car did nothing. It's supposed cycle the door locks, and THEN you can start programming the fobs, but nothing happened.

So do I have a bad RKE receiver (the box up on the rear deck under the rear window)?

I want to make sure I'm doing it correctly - short those two wires together, but do not ground them to the chassis.
 

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From what I have seen if a car came with remotes it wil have a plate lock to get to the gas cap. If you open the trunk and on the left side there is a lever to lock and unlock the plate from going down and getting to the gas cap, if you have the lever it came with a remote. Not there your going to have to put on a aftermarket.
This is not correct. The locking / unlocking lever for the rear license plate (for the gas cap) is part of the "Security System" option, whicjh is in ADDITION to the RKE option. Don't confuse the Security System option with the PASS Key / VATS either because that was standard on all of our cars.

And I still can't get mine to start the re-programming sequence, might be a bad receiver up behind the rear seat.
 

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Hey Mike Did you not correct me about my misunderstanding about the security system and the RKE system being two different systems in post #31. I was going on my experience and I never had a car with RKE and not have a security system. Every time I have reprogramed the remotes , as soon as I put the jumper on the door locks activated. It is nice to have spare parts to trouble shoot these problems. Through the years everytime I had a chance to buy these parts at the junk yard I did. I have had two of these modules through the years go bad on me. Thats not in one car , I have 3 of these cars on the road now and had a few I sold.
 

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Hey Mike Did you not correct me about my misunderstanding about the security system and the RKE system being two different systems in post #31. I was going on my experience and I never had a car with RKE and not have a security system. Every time I have reprogramed the remotes , as soon as I put the jumper on the door locks activated. It is nice to have spare parts to trouble shoot these problems. Through the years everytime I had a chance to buy these parts at the junk yard I did. I have had two of these modules through the years go bad on me. Thats not in one car , I have 3 of these cars on the road now and had a few I sold.
Yeah, I keep getting these two threads mixed up. My apologies.

If anyone wants to spend over $1,000 on a new module these folks somewhere in the EU supposedly have one:


I am now looking for a replacement RKE module. If anyone knows of one for a reasonable price, please let me know.
 

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I was looking at the ones I have and I seen 3 different part numbers. I don't think it makes a difference, but maybe it was one without a security system. What is the part number on yours?
 
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