[bailors]

So this evening I managed to remove everything needed to access the crank pulley, i bought the good removal tool (about 60$) and a good re-installation tool (about 55$), so i got the new balancer (powerbond) installed nicely with the installer tool, but as i went to remove the installer tool...it prove to be EXTREMELY difficult, i have to vicegrip one section and ratchet the other while pushing them in opposite directions to get the bolt out. And it may have been paranoia, but it seems as if the bolt leaned to the left, like it was bent. But after much trial, i finally got the installation tool out, but some of the threads near the end of it are stripped, and there is a lot of metal stuck to it ( i assume from the crank and/or the tool it self)

When i try to put the new bolt in, it will only thread in like 1/4 in hand tight, not even coming close to touching the new balancer (if that makes sense). I dont want to force a new bolt on just for it to get stuck or fvck something up worse. WHat should i do? Keep in mind, i have NO access nor the confidence level to "drill or tap" new threads. I dont mind paying for this service, but who does this? JoeSchmo Auto Repair man?

ANd as a quick school lesson, im very new to the engine repair scene, what does this bolt thread into? Is it easy to just replace? Is there a write up on how to do it?

I live in the Oak Harbor, WA area if you can recommend someone amazing.




Install tool
http://www.coloradospeed.com/hawk-ls-series-harmonic-balancer-installation-tool-gm-ls1-ls6-ls2-ls3-p-10976.html

 

[darkman]

It needs to go to a shop. They may (or may not) be able to repair the crank in the car by cleaning up the existing threads, re-tapping new threads, and/or installing a Helicoil.

 

[k24556]

OK, been there, done that, have the T shirt, loose tooth, and hangover to show for it. Here's how I got out of it:

1. the threads are 16mm x 2.0 mm. Get a tap, either a taper or a bottoming style tap. Ebay if you can't find one locally.
2. get a 16mm x 2.0 nut. Fastenall has them but you have to buy 25 (ask me how I know, and PM me and I'll send you one, I have plenty)
3. Run the tap through the nut.
4. Push the nut against the face of the crank as hard as you can to keep the tap square with respect to the crank and SLOWLY turn the tap engage the threads in the crank
5. Slowly clean the threads

Since yours is an 07 I'm guessing you have an LS-2 like mine, so the crank is probably cast rather than forged. But either way the material is harder than plain carbon steel, and the thread tolerances are tight, so the tap will not have easy going, and it will never be easy to clean those threads. My experience with this was on a Corvette, but the space to get in there and do this is about as bad on a -V from what I can see. You may need to clear out the radiator to get there.

Depending no how boogered the threads are, you might start with the old crank bolt. Take a grinder and grind a small groove perpendicular to the threads to make a thread chaser out of the bolt. You are supposed to replace those bolts and not re-use them they are torque-to-yield bolts, so they have been stretched beyond yield. Use the nut method above with this, and make sure the nut runs up and down where the groove is.

Then I would suggest you get in touch with ARP and get one of their bolts.

I have a piece of All-thread 16mm x 2.0 that I use as an installer, and I pull out the camp stove and boil some water with the new pulley in the pot. The pulley sees that temperature and more in service, so it isn't any harm, and the pulley slides on the crank with less force. Now getting that bolt tight... that's cussin' and beer drinkin'.....

The crank is too hard for a thread insert or a helicoil, and no room with the engine in the car to get a drill stout enough to drill a hole to tap for a heli coil.

 

[darien99]

I was terrified about doing exactly that with my pulley install, but it went pretty smoothly. Hope you're able to work it out.

 

[ctsv247]

4. Push the nut against the face of the crank as hard as you can to keep the tap square with respect to the crank and SLOWLY turn the tap engage the threads in the crank

There's a nice little trick...never thought of that one.