Hey guys, I'm back. After a hiatus of spending time repairing other cars in my stable, it's time to turn back to the Eldo.
Although it's still troubled by the possible head gasket leak (which I have decided to repair myself in a month or so--but, that's another tale yet to be told), it's now developed a misfire in a different cylinder, and is effectively running on only seven-and-a-half cylinders, and intermittently on eight. I went out and bought one of those nifty Elm 327 OBD2 bluetooth code readers, and bought the Pro Torque app for Android, so now I can read my own codes, in-depth, on all my vehicles....it's awesome.
Now that I have that liitle tool, my most recent (and only) code is a P0202 (Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Malfunction). The car chuggles like a train, the SES light is flashing, I can smell gas reeeally strong, and there's no pick-up at all. It also acts like it cuts in intermittently when I drive, smoothing out and then roughening up once again, especially at traffic lights or stops. Same thing I was bitchin' about months ago, only now it's worse.
So, I went to this page: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0202 to see what might be done about it. This is what it says could be wrong:
Bad injector. This is usually the cause of this code but doesn't rule out the possibility of one of the other causes
Open in the wiring to the injector
Short in the wiring to the injector
Bad PCM
Following the suggested advice, I checked the following:
1) Injector resistance: I've got 12.3-12.5 ohms or so on all the front bank injectors.
2) Voltage at the connector: I've got 9.3v-9.5v on all of the front bank connectors, so I'm assuming it's within specs.
3) Visually inspect: I've looked it over and the injector looks fine (I even swapped it with the No. 4, just to be sure, but still no worky); the wires look stiff and cooked, (like all wires do, when they've spent time in that harsh environment), and I can see no visual cracks....however, if it's possible for a wire to be broken internally, the green wire in the No. 2 harness had a severe 90-degree bend in it. I straightened it out, but again, I can't be sure it's not broken inside.
4) Checked the injector to see if it's working: Although I haven't done this trick in this instance, a few months ago I used the trick I learned here of pulling the fuel rail up and holding it, while the wife turns on the key...I got no dribbles or leaks. I had her turn the car over, and all of the injectors pulsed and sprayed fuel perfectly. Now, I haven't tried this test again since I've gotten the P0202, and I can do so, if you think it will help.
5)"At the PCM, remove the driver wire from the PCM connector and Ground the wire. (Make sure you have the correct wire. If you're not sure, do not attempt) The injector should activate." - Not going to try this, because A), I don't have confidence in my ability NOT to screw something up, and B), I don't want to monkey around with the PCM, if it's not needed.
So...I guess I'm asking for suggestions on whether it could be the injector wiring harness (which I'm assuming I can replace by a simple plug-and-play method), or something more serious like the PCM.
Thoughts?
Rob
Although it's still troubled by the possible head gasket leak (which I have decided to repair myself in a month or so--but, that's another tale yet to be told), it's now developed a misfire in a different cylinder, and is effectively running on only seven-and-a-half cylinders, and intermittently on eight. I went out and bought one of those nifty Elm 327 OBD2 bluetooth code readers, and bought the Pro Torque app for Android, so now I can read my own codes, in-depth, on all my vehicles....it's awesome.
Now that I have that liitle tool, my most recent (and only) code is a P0202 (Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Malfunction). The car chuggles like a train, the SES light is flashing, I can smell gas reeeally strong, and there's no pick-up at all. It also acts like it cuts in intermittently when I drive, smoothing out and then roughening up once again, especially at traffic lights or stops. Same thing I was bitchin' about months ago, only now it's worse.
So, I went to this page: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0202 to see what might be done about it. This is what it says could be wrong:
Bad injector. This is usually the cause of this code but doesn't rule out the possibility of one of the other causes
Open in the wiring to the injector
Short in the wiring to the injector
Bad PCM
Following the suggested advice, I checked the following:
1) Injector resistance: I've got 12.3-12.5 ohms or so on all the front bank injectors.
2) Voltage at the connector: I've got 9.3v-9.5v on all of the front bank connectors, so I'm assuming it's within specs.
3) Visually inspect: I've looked it over and the injector looks fine (I even swapped it with the No. 4, just to be sure, but still no worky); the wires look stiff and cooked, (like all wires do, when they've spent time in that harsh environment), and I can see no visual cracks....however, if it's possible for a wire to be broken internally, the green wire in the No. 2 harness had a severe 90-degree bend in it. I straightened it out, but again, I can't be sure it's not broken inside.
4) Checked the injector to see if it's working: Although I haven't done this trick in this instance, a few months ago I used the trick I learned here of pulling the fuel rail up and holding it, while the wife turns on the key...I got no dribbles or leaks. I had her turn the car over, and all of the injectors pulsed and sprayed fuel perfectly. Now, I haven't tried this test again since I've gotten the P0202, and I can do so, if you think it will help.
5)"At the PCM, remove the driver wire from the PCM connector and Ground the wire. (Make sure you have the correct wire. If you're not sure, do not attempt) The injector should activate." - Not going to try this, because A), I don't have confidence in my ability NOT to screw something up, and B), I don't want to monkey around with the PCM, if it's not needed.
So...I guess I'm asking for suggestions on whether it could be the injector wiring harness (which I'm assuming I can replace by a simple plug-and-play method), or something more serious like the PCM.
Thoughts?
Rob