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2003 deville
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
one day car would not start , found the positive cable corroded so bad that it wouldn't even take a jump start. i disconnected the cable and cleaned it and it was ok for about 3 weeks then the same thing again. this went on for about 4 months before i finally bought a replacement end,the problem is that when the cable leaves the battery it splits into 3 seperate cables - 1 to starter - one to alternater and 1 to fuse block on drivers fender. i cut the cables back as far as i could and still be able to reach the battery but the copper cable is all green with corrosion, so the no start still happens after about 3 weeks from the corrosion coming out of the cables. i bought a new cable from gm parts direct ( 74.60 to my door 137.00 dealer cost ) now i find that the cable lead to the starter goes up on top and then down under what looks to be some kind of blower or turbo and all of the fuel injectors and wiring is there. i see no way to get to the starter cable end without removing the top of the engine ( what kind of design is this ) what would a dealer charge to replace a cable like this ? i am thinking of running the new cable to the alternator and fuse block and then cut back more of the starter cable and hope i find good clean copper ( not green ) and splice it together there so that i don,t have to have the top of the engine taken apart . any replys will be helpful , thanks ron schultz email [email protected]
 

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Cadillac Technician
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Cutting and splicing is just going to leave you with unreliable connections. The best thing to do is replace that entire cable.
Believe it or not getting the intake manifold off to connect the cable to the starter is the easy part.
It routes down with one leg going to the alternator and one to the junction block over on the left side right in front of the strut tower.

You could do it on your own but there are a lot of potential problems. The bolt in the electrical center could spin making it really hard to get that apart and the stud in the generator could also spin, if that happens you are in a lot deeper trouble.
Getting the intake off is pretty easy, essentially you just remove the bolts that hold it down and lift it up. You don't have to remove it from the engine, but if you snap off the stud on the starter you are in for another real treat.
Plus there is not much room in there and if your tool selection is limited you might find it hard to get the nuts off the starter to change the cable.

You are looking at about 3 hours of labor according to alldata.
 

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13 Challenger RT, 11 CTS Coupe Premium, 94 Eldorado (RIP)
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1,306 Posts
Any bolt could spin. It isn't as scary as it sounds. Take your time when you are breaking bolts and don't overtighten them when replacing them. I recently changed out all three positive wires on mine and had no problem. It is a very easy job.

Like ewill said, that is your intake manifold and it comes up easily.
 

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Go to Checker/KRagan and buy three Battery Splicer kits for a sidepost GM battery. Each one will handle one of the 4 gauge cables that comes in. These can be stacked with a longer bolt. This also adds 4 inches to each cable. Be sure that the cables going down do not hit any alternator belts or fins... Alternatively, the dealer will charge you 2 hours of labor, since they have to remove the intake manifold...
 

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2003 deville
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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for your feedback ,now i have a couple of questions about removing the intake , i belive i saw either 6 or 8 -- 10 mm bolts are these the ones to remove , the fuel injectors stay in the manifold ( i don't have to disturb them , or remove any of the connecting wires ) also what about the intake gaskets if there are any ? thanks again for the feedback
 

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13 Challenger RT, 11 CTS Coupe Premium, 94 Eldorado (RIP)
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I have a 94, which it a bit different from your year North*. My year had a beauty cover that is integral to the intake. I believe the setup is a little different. Someone else will give you some good info soon, I am sure.
 

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On a 99 you should see 6 10mm head bolts low on the intake, then 4 studs that retain the engine cover.
Those all need to be removed.
You might need to unhook the fuel rail retaining nut on the EGR housing for some slack (so you don't kink the lines)
Getting them out is easy, but don't overtighten them on reassembly.
To be on the safe side you should replace the intake gaskets, you could end up with a vacuum leak if you don't.
Be careful not to drop anything down the intake ports.
Tightening torque is 89 lb. in. which is not much so don't go crazy tightening the bolts when you are done, also start in the center and work your way outward.
It's not as scary as it sounds.
But make sure to unhook the negative cable before you begin.. just in case.

The older, original northstar is a bit different, it's actually EASIER to replace the starter on. You just take 4 bolts out (the ones in the deep holes) to raise the intake and it's not nearly as complicated.
 
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