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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, and thank you for reading this. I just bought a 97 Deville Concours with a flood damage history. Needless to say, I am experiencing computer related problems. The biggest one is that it shifts rough, slips, and has a fast idle. Originally the speedometer did not work, so I believed that because the car was computerized, that the transmission's performance was based on the speedometer. I changed the speed sensor, and I just had a new guage cluster installed at the dealership. Now my speedometer works (my odometer is fast though) but my symptoms have not improved the slightest bit. The car has 85k miles and I am at a loss for ideas....and cash. My "sevice ride control" indicator is on too. Can anyone please help?
I held down the "off" and "temp. up" buttons to get the error codes and I received a TON of history codes and these current ones:
U1255
C1783
C1785
Thanks for any suggestions.
 

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1996 Seville STS
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miishmiish said:
Hello, and thank you for reading this. I just bought a 97 Deville Concours with a flood damage history. Needless to say, I am experiencing computer related problems. The biggest one is that it shifts rough, slips, and has a fast idle. Originally the speedometer did not work, so I believed that because the car was computerized, that the transmission's performance was based on the speedometer. I changed the speed sensor, and I just had a new guage cluster installed at the dealership. Now my speedometer works (my odometer is fast though) but my symptoms have not improved the slightest bit. The car has 85k miles and I am at a loss for ideas....and cash. My "sevice ride control" indicator is on too. Can anyone please help?
I held down the "off" and "temp. up" buttons to get the error codes and I received a TON of history codes and these current ones:
U1255
C1783
C1785
Thanks for any suggestions.
I don't know much about the computers on these, and I am sure that someone else will post. In the meantime, I am sure you have done the obvious like disconnect the battery for a minute to reset the codes, and that you have gone over the connections to look for dirt or corrosion. That is all I know. Hopefully someone else knows more.

Jon
96STS
 

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Discussion Starter #3
jonrodman said:
I don't know much about the computers on these, and I am sure that someone else will post. In the meantime, I am sure you have done the obvious like disconnect the battery for a minute to reset the codes, and that you have gone over the connections to look for dirt or corrosion. That is all I know. Hopefully someone else knows more.

Jon
96STS
Yeah, I did that. I also cleared all of the history codes and found out that the c1783/1785 are problems with my road sensing suspension module and the "c" means current. None of the codes are helpful because they don't start with "PCM" which refers to engine and transmission. Thanks for the reply. I will keep checking back for more responses.
 

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miishmiish said:
Yeah, I did that. I also cleared all of the history codes and found out that the c1783/1785 are problems with my road sensing suspension module and the "c" means current. None of the codes are helpful because they don't start with "PCM" which refers to engine and transmission. Thanks for the reply. I will keep checking back for more responses.
Check this thread out
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=3362
It has links for checking computer codes. I personally don't know anything about the computers but this thread has what you need. Please add to it if you know of anything we are missing
 

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Unfortunately,
Checking codes will yield little if any results on this car. You're not going to like what I'm going to tell you but that doesn't change the facts. Facts are, that this kind of damage (flood damage) creates a situation that sometimes ends up costing people like you A LOT OF MONEY. The car was flooded and probably totalled by the insurance company. Instead of scrapping the car, it lived on because with some detailing, it is possible to sucker someone into buying it as a usable car. The problem is that todays cars are so complicated electronically and that they are EXTREMELY suceptable to ongoing electrical problems for the rest of their days. You may NEVER find and fix ALL the damage that was done by the flood. Water gets into virtually EVERYTHING and what doesn't get destroyed immediately, can (and usually does) get destroyed over time by corrosion started by the water intrusion. The worst possible scenario is to have a car with high amounts of sensitive electronics get flooded. Could be me but that perfectly describes a late model Cadillac Concours.
I'd dump that car AS FAST AS POSSIBLE! Or at least part it out. I've done that very thing and made more money than I would've by trying to sell the car outright.
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Discussion Starter #7
Katshot said:
Unfortunately,
Checking codes will yield little if any results on this car. You're not going to like what I'm going to tell you but that doesn't change the facts. Facts are, that this kind of damage (flood damage) creates a situation that sometimes ends up costing people like you A LOT OF MONEY. The car was flooded and probably totalled by the insurance company. Instead of scrapping the car, it lived on because with some detailing, it is possible to sucker someone into buying it as a usable car. The problem is that todays cars are so complicated electronically and that they are EXTREMELY suceptable to ongoing electrical problems for the rest of their days. You may NEVER find and fix ALL the damage that was done by the flood. Water gets into virtually EVERYTHING and what doesn't get destroyed immediately, can (and usually does) get destroyed over time by corrosion started by the water intrusion. The worst possible scenario is to have a car with high amounts of sensitive electronics get flooded. Could be me but that perfectly describes a late model Cadillac Concours.
I'd dump that car AS FAST AS POSSIBLE! Or at least part it out. I've done that very thing and made more money than I would've by trying to sell the car outright.
I can't part out the car (time and energy), but so far I have spent a total of about $6k for this car. The body and interior is beautiful, 85mi, black on black, chrome factory wheels, sporty analog guages and center console, fully loaded. I have changed the radiator, plugs, guage cluster, some fluids and filters, installed a factory 12cd changer, aftermarket alarm and some other small things. The ride control, air conditioning, and this tranny problem are all I have left to fix. I know the transmission is something small and stupid that I am looking over, like a sensor. And I don't care for the ride control. Should I give up and just drive it the way it is? How much could I sell it for?

I took it to aamco and they suggested a throttle positioning sensor could be at fault for the symptoms described in the first message above. They wanted to hook up their scanner but I did the scan myself and it gave me no pcm codes. Does their scanner have access to something the on board computer doesn't? What do you know about the tps?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Fixed It!!!

97 concours; high idle, late rough shifts and occassional revving. I went to 6 mechanics, the first told me to change the speed sensor, that did nothing. A few mechanics later I landed at the dealership changing my faulty speedometer as that is supposed to affect it. $600 later, I have a new speedometer (woo-hoo) but the same problem. I said screw these mechanics, they don't know shi* so I went to the library, checked out a service manual for my car and skimmed through it in less than 30 minutes; I decided to change my TPS (throttle positioning sensor) $30 at autozone. Problem solved. All that B.S. and it was just a $30 piece of plastic. Let me explain though: you may or may not get an error code because many times, these sensors are not made that effectively. I never had a code which is why it took so long to figure this out. Once I removed the TPS, it was filled with debris and corrosion. I removed it and drove around the block to notice the driving was the same, but NOW my check engine light came on. Once replaced with new, I noticed an instant difference. Remember, that if you remove your sensor, make sure the new one comes with an "o" ring (just a rubber surround to keep moisture out). If you have debris and/or corrosion, use an old toothbrush to scrub it clean and keep it dry. You will need a "star" shaped bit and to work on your engine when it has cooled down. I hope this has helped someone. I went through a lot of crap to fix this problem and I hope I saved someone the same B.S. Good luck.
 

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A flood damaged car means it had water and silt in all the connectors. Even though many are water resistant they may not be waterproof when submerged for some time.
My strong suggestion would be to remove all the connectors, one at a time, and give them a shot of wd-40 then reconnect. If any have water in them dry them thoroughly first. The same with the computer connections under the dash. Pull off the cover for the relays and fuses and do that whole area.
This may fix your problems. Bad connections on computers can cause illogical problems because the computer gets information that varies (I've seen it on a scope and it's obvious why the computer misinterpets it,it sees a fog and picks out random voltage spikes).
I'd also suggest changing the trans fluid. If it was deep enough it got water in the trans and even if someone changed it once they may not have flushed it. Cheap insurance of longer trans life.
 

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I've never had to deal with a flooded/water damaged car but consider how a mechanic approaches a problem: Car runs, car breaks, find which part broke.
You have something out of that box. If you are keeping the car it makes a lot of sense to do a lot of cleaning/checking connectors yourself rather than pay someone $70 an hour to try to figure out if 1 is bad.
Another thing I though of is the car may have been steam cleaned before it got sold. We've all seen the warnings about that forcing water in the connectors etc. Another reason to check every connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
zonie77 said:
I've never had to deal with a flooded/water damaged car but consider how a mechanic approaches a problem: Car runs, car breaks, find which part broke.
You have something out of that box. If you are keeping the car it makes a lot of sense to do a lot of cleaning/checking connectors yourself rather than pay someone $70 an hour to try to figure out if 1 is bad.
Another thing I though of is the car may have been steam cleaned before it got sold. We've all seen the warnings about that forcing water in the connectors etc. Another reason to check every connector.
Thanks for the advice. Do you think $50+tax is good for a tranny flush? Should I change the filter too? To change the filter and the flush would cost $129 but I heard the flush already cleans out the filter.
 

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A flush does not clean out the filter very much. I would change it. If you knew more history on the car you'd know if it had been changed after the water damage. Prices aren't bad.
It would be nice to be there and take a look at the pan when it first comes ou. You are looking for how much metal filings and black goop in the pan. That's a strong indication of clutch wear. looking at one doesn't tell you a lot, you get a feel after you see a bunch.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
zonie77 said:
A flush does not clean out the filter very much. I would change it. If you knew more history on the car you'd know if it had been changed after the water damage. Prices aren't bad.
It would be nice to be there and take a look at the pan when it first comes ou. You are looking for how much metal filings and black goop in the pan. That's a strong indication of clutch wear. looking at one doesn't tell you a lot, you get a feel after you see a bunch.
when i took out the dipstick, the fluid was clean and the level was about right. is that a good indicator that i may not need a flush and that the fluid was changed at the time of the flood?
 

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probably was. I do everything myself and if any doubt I'll do it. I think the electrical work I suggested is first.
Let's go back to what I finished with...cheap insurance for longer trans life. Doing it youself puts it in the $25-35 range with a new filter. Not necessarily any problem but it goes a long way to extending trans life.
It's just something I thought might be a good idea.
 

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miishmiish said:
Hello, and thank you for reading this. I just bought a 97 Deville Concours with a flood damage history. Needless to say, I am experiencing computer related problems. The biggest one is that it shifts rough, slips, and has a fast idle. Originally the speedometer did not work, so I believed that because the car was computerized, that the transmission's performance was based on the speedometer. I changed the speed sensor, and I just had a new guage cluster installed at the dealership. Now my speedometer works (my odometer is fast though) but my symptoms have not improved the slightest bit. The car has 85k miles and I am at a loss for ideas....and cash. My "sevice ride control" indicator is on too. Can anyone please help?
I held down the "off" and "temp. up" buttons to get the error codes and I received a TON of history codes and these current ones:
U1255
C1783
C1785
Thanks for any suggestions.
I'm honestly going to become the Code Pimp vs the Pushrod Pimp. :rolleyes:

C1783 = ICCS2 DL Left Output Short Circuit to GND
C1785 = ICCS2 DL Right Output Short Circuit to GND
U1255 = Serial Data Line Malfunction

Not only do you have shorted sensors, most likely due to water build up, but your SDL is shorting out as well. Get your connectors cleaned!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
2dfx said:
I'm honestly going to become the Code Pimp vs the Pushrod Pimp. :rolleyes:

C1783 = ICCS2 DL Left Output Short Circuit to GND
C1785 = ICCS2 DL Right Output Short Circuit to GND
U1255 = Serial Data Line Malfunction

Not only do you have shorted sensors, most likely due to water build up, but your SDL is shorting out as well. Get your connectors cleaned!
Thank you, however I have no clue where to look to clean those sensors above. These cars come with a million sensors, most of which are hidden to my eye so I need some guidance in the right direction.
Is that written in the factory service manual?
 

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I don't have the manual at my house so I can't give you a specific location but I think the fact you have 2 sensors showing grounded and a line malfunction is a good reason to start cleaning all the sensors and I don't think there are a million, probably more like 20-30 tops. Then the fuse/relay center under the cover could all be done quickly.
 

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zonie77 said:
I don't have the manual at my house so I can't give you a specific location but I think the fact you have 2 sensors showing grounded and a line malfunction is a good reason to start cleaning all the sensors and I don't think there are a million, probably more like 20-30 tops. Then the fuse/relay center under the cover could all be done quickly.

Actually, I think you hit the nail on the head for the "first thing to do now." That is not remove and clean all the connectors. It is "go buy the manual for your car." Anyone doing as much work on their car as you are and will be doing NEEDS the factory service manual.

Ells
 

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Re: Fixed It!!!

miishmiish said:
97 concours; high idle, late rough shifts and occassional revving. I went to 6 mechanics, the first told me to change the speed sensor, that did nothing. A few mechanics later I landed at the dealership changing my faulty speedometer as that is supposed to affect it. $600 later, I have a new speedometer (woo-hoo) but the same problem. I said screw these mechanics, they don't know shi* so I went to the library, checked out a service manual for my car and skimmed through it in less than 30 minutes...
Bravo. I'm agree. I have no much experience, but even so, I think, a most of mechanics just do screw and unscrew. They have their experience because of a lot of car's they did, not because of they try to learn this reading books. That's why a lot of them just hate modern complicated engines with a lot of electronics. Cause they don't know a sh%$^& about it. A lot of people use dealership-stealership or auto repair shops just because they don't have elevator to lift the car or other tools. To find a mechanics who REALLY knows an electronics - it's like to find a treasure.
I just spent $210 for nothing (see 'bad temp sensor?' post) and nobody can say what's going on. I think, I will try to resolve issue myself like you using my knowledge and experience and service manual (if I will find it in a library like you did).
 
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