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Please HELP! 20 PULL CODES 96 SLS

3522 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  kentucky
iF ANYONE IS FAMILIAR WITH THESE CODES, YOUR HELP IS APPRECIATE IT.

THE CAR HAS 132,OOO MILES. BOUGHT IT FROM THE DEALERSHIP 3 YRS AGO.
i HAVE REPLACED THE BATTERY. AND A YEAR AGO THE DEALERSHIP REPAIRED THE TRANNY. THE SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT IS ON AND THE ENGINE RUNS SHAKEY. i KNOW I NEED NEW BRAKES (POSSIBLY ROTORS). AND AN OIL CHANGE. ELC FUSE KEEPS BLOWING. REAR BRAKE LIGHT TURNS OFF WHEN i PRESS ON BRAKE. ALSO iM OUT OF FREEON. AC IS DISABLED. fRONT BLOWERS DONT COME ON. STEREO SPEAKERS TURN DOWN WHEN I TURN THE STEERING WHEEL.


tHESE ARE THE KNOWN ISSUES ABOVE.^^^^^^^^


i AM REALLY CURIOUS TO WHAT THESE CODES PERTAIN TO. tHANKS FOR ANY HELP OR SUGGESTIONS!

BTW. i AM SO GLAD i RAN ACROSS THIS FORUM. SO MUCH USEFUL INFO!:):):)

pc1520 history
pc1574 history
pc1599 history
pc1632 history


Ip1552 history
ip2511 current
ip2710 history
ip2711 history
ac1348 history

no sdm codes

TC0067 history
tc0073 history
rsoo38 current

no pzm codes

no irc codes

rf2560 current

no ccp codes

PCM?
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cAPS lOCK..........

Read the sticky threads at the top of this, Deville, Northstar Performance, and CadillacTechnical Tips titled "How to pull codes and Got Codes ? Look here".

Just went over the second paragraph again........Major dealer work or jack up the sunroof and run a new car under it...........
cAPS lOCK..........

Read the sticky threads at the top of this, Deville, Northstar Performance, and CadillacTechnical Tips titled "How to pull codes and Got Codes ? Look here".

Just went over the second paragraph again........Major dealer work or jack up the sunroof and run a new car under it...........
:bwahaharoll4vu: thanks for the sarcasm and joke...

However Its obvious you know nothing about the codes in question.

after a little research it seem the only codes I should focus on are the current codes..


"The "Current" and "History" tags denote whether the module has experienced the problem in the past (History codes), or is currently experiencing the problem (Current codes).
Generally speaking, you should be concerned with Current codes and only watchful of the History codes since History codes can be left over from some tech that didn't erase them after he did some work on the car, or maybe just an intermittent issue that may never happen again."


That being said I rephrase the question.

Does anyone have any knowledge on these Current codes?
ip2511 current
rsoo38 current
rf2560 current
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After a lil more research these are my conclusions.

RF2560 = is a Remote Keyless Entry Validation fault
IP2511 = Steering wheel controls button stuck.
RS0038 = Electronic level control exhaust valve short to ground or open circuit.

Which makes alotta since. Hence the probs explained in my main post

My service engine light is off for now after a ride accross town.
A sigh of relief..

Afterall this car has never broken down on me once.
I still have lotta work to do but it all seems to be minor...
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However none of the codes marked as "current" would have put your Service Engine Soon light on. One of the PC#### codes did that. You would have to check the codes while the SES light is still illuminated to find out which one is the cause. Part of the problem with dealing with a 96 is that it was the conversion year from OBD-I to OBD-II... So it has a mixture of codes from both setups.

P1520 - Transmission Range Switch Circuit
P1574 - Stoplamp Switch Circuit
P1599 - Engine Stall or Near Stall Detected
P1632 - Theft Deterrent Fuel Disable Signal Received

Since you have such a slew of codes there, I'm going to go through and see what they all mean and how they could be connected, if at all.

B1552 - Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error <===Battery was unplugged or went dead/almost dead.
B2511 - Steering Wheel Controls Conv Key Stuck <===Not sure what it means by this
B2710 - PASSKey Open/Shorted Pellet
B2711 - PASSKey Open/Shorted Pellet After Good Key

B1348 - Very Low A/C Refrigerant Pressure

T067 - Brake Light Switch Fault
T073 - PCM - EBTCM/EBCM Pulse Width Modulation Signal Fault
and the others you already looked up.

Try clearing the codes and then using the spare key (if you have one) to see if you can get the problem to return.

To clear the codes:
-go into diagnostics mode
-When it says "PCM?" press the fan up button
-Press the fan down button until you reach "PCM CLEAR CODES?"
-Press the fan up button to clear the codes, it should display "PCM CODES CLEAR" before returning you to the next option in that menu
-Press the OFF button once to go back. It should display the 3 letter acronym for another module (XXX?).
-Repeat the process by pressing fan up to go into its menu and then down until you reach "XXX CLEAR CODES?" then up again to clear the codes, then OFF again to see another module.
-Do that until you get back to "PCM?"
You can either press reset, or turn the key to the off position to exit diagnostics mode.

Drive the car and see what comes back.
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kentucky, Actually, I know a bit more about codes than you might think :sneaky:.

My intent worked, though: You now know how to pull, research, and clear codes, and Krashed is right on target when he advises that your car is on the turnover line from OBD-I to OBD-II so you'll run across some redundancy.

Start a "code log": Keep an account of what the car throws, say every three weeks. Don't clear anything, just see what comes and goes.

A code stays C for 4 ignition/run cycles and, after that, with no reoccurrence, it will go to H, where it resides for 40 cycles, when it then clears. DO NOT reset codes within 2 - 3 weeks of an emissions test - the system will give the test set a "not ready" readout and you'll have to drive for a couple of weeks to allow the car to set its own "ready" message, which only the emissions test set can see.
:thumbsup: thanks for the Help guys.

I am now in need of expertise on my issues with my front blower.

when my freon went out the low refrigerent/ac disabled message appeared..

However my Front blower still worked for a few months if I recall. Now I get nothing from the blower.

(I can feel a very slight breeze from my windshield defrost and on my feet if the heat is on. This seems to happen only after the car has been running for a while.)

My first question: is the blower on the firewall?

2. What are my next steps to troubleshoot my blower?
(Im not worried about the ac right now, just need my heater and defrost to work.)

.3 Which fuses are connected to the Blower?
i have checked all my fuses in the trunk and they are good.(execpt ELC & the optional AMP) I also checked the INADVERT maxi relay which is still good.
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