Cadillac Owners Forum banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
CTS
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok...I'm confused...I've got a 2003 luxury model. If I lower my car with the Pro Kit will I have to replace the rear shocks or is this only on the luxury sport models?

---Also, those with the springs on their cars...have you noticed any unusual wear on the inside of your tires? Technically speaking...lowering causes negative camber which will cause excessive wear to the inside edges of your tires...I used to own a Honda Prelude that I installed Eibachs Sportline kit on...lets just say that I needed to get a camber kit after I realized the steel belts were showing on the insides of my tires....Now the sportline kit is a much more agressive drop than the pro-kit and the one for our cars at only 1.2 inches is very modest so Im just wondering if this will be a problem.

---Finally, those people with the springs and aftermarket wheels...any clearing issues..esp with 18's?

---Does lowering a car void the factory warranty? Everything I;ve ever lowered has been paid for and not under warranty... :hmm:

Thanks again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,305 Posts
This is the way I understand this whole Eibach Pro Springs stuff. I had it done and I had to change my rear shocks because they were the one's that were load leveling. The springs were installed at the dealer. When they ran the vin number it did not show that I had load leveling shocks because when I purchased the car, I added the sport suspension as an option. In any event, after I lowered my car, the rear was still high, due to the load leveling shocks..So I replaced it with stock CTS shocks and the car now sits nice and low. See my link below for pics...If I were you, I would somehow determine if your car is equipped with the load leveling shocks prior to lowering it..or do like what I did (kinda backwards but end result was the same) - lower it, see if the rear sits high, if it does, you know you have to change the shocks...

I have not noticed any unusual wear on the inside of my tires and none of the technicians have pointed it out either during tire rotation...

Clearance issues - I have 20s and low profile tires...I have to be a little more careful how I drive and do get an occasional rubbing here and there in the front. I also learned that if I flare my fenders out 10mm, my problem may be solved. There is a guy close to LA that did it for another forum member and he is gonna do mine. I'll report back after I get it done.

Waranty - There is no warranty voided with mine..then again it may be because I have my dealer accessory dept do all my mods...also they are pretty cool. I remember when 2 of my wheels were bent and they replaced it them at no charge during my tire rotation...hope this helps...


http://www.cardomain.com/id/pjohnesq
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,726 Posts
Pjohn did a pretty good job explaining that. Basically since you dont have a luxury sport I do not think u need to replace the rear shocks. As for warranty issues, they cannot void an entire warranty, they can only make you pay for things that are directly related to problems the springs have caused.
 

·
Registered
07 SRX V8 AWD Diamond White Sport Edition & 08 C6 LS3/418ci
Joined
·
722 Posts
John is correct that the rear shocks on the CTS sport package are self-leveling Nivomat shocks. And yes....they are expensive on the CTS Sport which uses the FE3 rear shock and the CTS-V which uses the FE4 rear shock. Both Nivomat level loading shocks perform the same function on both vehicles....the FE4 monotube is just a bit "thicker" in relation to the FE3 CTS rear shock.

The problem that all CTS owners overlook is that when they replace their level loading FE3 shocks with the $70 CTS luxury shock which is not level-loading, they are doing so in order to get the rear end to "drop" when installing their aftermarket lowering springs. This has and continues to be the "cheap fix".....but there is a problem that every CTS owner overlooks.

The majority of vehicles that are sold in this country that have HID ( Xenon) headlamps are self-leveling in order to keep the headlamp aligned at all times. The HID headlamps on both the CTS and the CTS-V ARE NOT self-leveling!! Your HID headlamp alignment is controlled by the rear FE3 level loading shocks. Therefore, the rear Nivomat FE3 and FE4 level loading shocks serve two funtions: one is to compensate for vehicle weight distribution when you put passengers in your rear seat or bars of gold bullion in your trunk and MOST IMPORTANT....keeping your HID headlamps aligned properly.

When you remove your Nivomat level loading shocks and install the CTS luxury shock, you now have a problem. Put 2 large people in your backseat and at nightime....you will have your HID headlamps illuminating the sky rather than the road in front of you! Ok.....that's a little bit of a stretch, but I hope that you get the point that once you remove your Nivomat level loading rear shocks....your HID headlamps will NEVER EVER be aimed nor aligned true.....NEVER!!

So....how do you fix this problem from an engineering standpoint correctly in order to install your Eibach springs and lower your rear end and keep the FE3 rear Nivomat level loading shock so that it serves it's dual purpose?

Here is your answer. You must compress the FE3 monotube shock to the desired height that you want your rear end to drop.....and lets use 1.5" as a measure. What you need to install is a pillow spacer on top of the rear monotube Nivomat FE3 rear shock that compresses the shock tube. The problem is that no one sells this product or has it except for yours truly!

I paid to have an engineering company design a pillow spacer on a CAD system that was cut on a water jet to compress the rear FE3 Nivomat shock tube. The effect was that I installed my rear Eibach Prokit Springs and removed the FE3 rear shocks and installed the pillow spacers to compress the shock tube. The bottom line is that I have maintained the integrity of the rear FE3 Nivomat level loading shock, the rear end on my CTS dropped approx 1.6" with the Eibach Prokit Rear springs and I DID NOT disturb the integrity of my HID headlamp alignment.

This set of pillow spacers cost me almost $1000 due to CAD programming fees and the fact that they were custom built. If you have any interest in doing this correctly, email me at [email protected] and I will speak with you about selling you a pair of these spacers at a fair "retail price". I am in the process of having 50 more sets cut by the water jet vendor and have applied for a patent on this product since none of the geniuses at GM Performance seemed to have give any consideration to this issue regarding the HID alignment issue that is compromised when you remove the Nivomat level-loading shock.

best regards - Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,726 Posts
Hmm although in theory I understand what you are saying, in practice I think you have not done the proper research into what the load leveling shocks do....The load leveling shocks are not instant, in that if someone sits in your car it may take an hour before the shocks change to adjust for that person.....Considering the amount of weight we are talking about with 2 people, and considering I have had this modification done for almost 2 years now, I dont think this a reasonable concern. My HIDs, stay on the road and I have never even noticed a small problem, much less the lighting of the tree tops...I am sorry but that seems to be $1000 dollars wasted. Unless you are carrying around incredibly heavy material in the back of the car.

Out of curiosity did you change the shocks out and test your light theory before buying the pillows? Was this really such an incredible concern?

Also I should point out the Eibach Pro-Kit only drops the car 1.2 inches not 1.6 so I would be interested in finding out 1, if you actually dropped it 1.6 inches and 2, why you modify a system for the extra .4 inches, considering Eibach obviously made a choice to drop it 1.2 inches.
 

·
Registered
07 SRX V8 AWD Diamond White Sport Edition & 08 C6 LS3/418ci
Joined
·
722 Posts
First let me address the rear drop of 1.6" versus the 1.2" that is "promised" by Eibach when you purchase there ProKit Springs for the CTS.

As you are aware....every CTS owner has learned by the theory of "trial by fire", that what Eibach promises is simply not true. There is no mention anywhere on their corporate website regarding the CTS ProKit Spring application that you have to literally "dump" an expensive rear performance shock FE3 or FE4 shock and then replace it with a softer dampening luxury shock inorder to get the rear of the vehicle to drop.

So the "fix" has been to "dump" a high-end rear performance Nivomat shock with all of its dampening qualities in favor of a softer dampening luxury shock in order to get to the 1.2" drop that Eibach promises you on your CTS.

Therefore.....it's almost like throwing out the "baby with the bath water" when you really think about it. CTS owners have been literally dumping a high-performance Nivomat rear sport shock to utilize an aftermaket (Eibach) factory spring for pure appearance purposes in lowering the vehicle. Now granted the Eibach spring is a "better" coil spring than the factory CTS Sport spring, but it is absolutely foolish to believe that a $70 Cadillac luxury shock is providing you the same dampening qualities as to what was designed in the Nivomat FE3 or FE4 shock.

Now with regard to your question of why I have 1.6" drop in the rear of my 3.6 CTS versus the 1.2" as to what Eibach promises with there CTS ProKit.

I have the front and rear CTS-V FE4 shock set on my 3.6 CTS. I removed my FE3 set and replaced them with the FE4 front and rear shocks that I obtained for literally nothing. The CTS-V Eibach Prokit drops the FE4 front end 1.6" compared to the 1.2" front drop on the CTS FE3 shock package.

After doing the front end, I wanted the same drop 1.6" drop in the rear of my 3.6 CTS and did not want to install a non-sport shock for the reasons stated above. I just absolutely refused to toss out my Nivomat Sport shocks.

So thefore, the billet pillows were cut by the water jet for diameter specs to fit either the FE3 or FE4 rear Nivomat shock head as the diameter and bolt up is the same. The billet pads were then machined to that specific height to compress the FE4 shock in order for the rear Eibach ProKit springs to do what they were intended to do.....which was lower the rear end and not throw away my damn sport shocks in favor of a $70 non-sport shock and still maintain the integrity of the sport suspension system which is both the FE4 shock and the Eibach coil spring.

The HID thing is a matter of perspective. The reality is that 99% of most people would never even realize that their headlights are misaligned, but make no mistake......there is NO self-leveling feature on any CTS or CTS-V HID headlamp. The Nivomat Rear Shock was designed "in part" to compensate for that, which I can only imagine was a cost production issue item for GM. I've owned 4 BMW M3's over the last 15 years and all had self-leveling HID's once they became available. This car does not, nor does the CTS-V.

Was a $1000 alot of money to spend on what is really a $200 retail item ( 2 billet shock pillow).....perhaps from your perspective it was. But $800 bucks of it was CAD and waterjet time for 2 pair. But now, I own the software for future production so that if someone wants to keep their rear Nivomats and wants to spend $250 rather than dumping them for luxury shocks.....I will see where that leads me.

In closing, I will say that I have the comfort of knowing that my entire CTS sport suspension system is intact as it was originally designed with a bit of custom modification to get there. I have the FE4 shocks ( front and rear) as you now know, the Eibach ProKit Springs (CTS-V version) and the Eibach front and rear adjustable sway bar kit. I'm running 18x8.5 wheels with 245/40/18 rubber.

Some guys like 20" wheels.....some don't; it's all perspective and opinion. I also have 2 piece 13.1" front and rear brake rotors with 6 piston front Wilwood calipers and 4 piston rear Wilwood calipers and none of that was done for "stopping distance", if you understand the dynamics of leading edge wear on your brake pads. But to be truthful....the brake set-up was more for show than go or stop I should say (lol). Every part of the front and rear suspension system on my CTS has been powdercoated with a final epoxy based clear powder coat.

Our vehicle's stock transmission and rear-end will support up to 375 rear wheel horsepower and that is where she will be in about 3 weeks before the dyno run. To alot of guys, a Volant intake and a pair of Magnaflows is all that they are prepared to do.......I'm just not one of those guys. (lol). I could go on for pages as to what has been done from a performance modification standpoint, but that is another chapter.

I hope to have some pictures posted when the car is finished. It has been in the "shop" for about 3 months and will be one of the feature vehicles in the "World of Wheels" Custom Car Show in Baltimore, Maryland in February and will more than likely be taken to the 2005 SEMA Show.

Nothing on this car is "bling bling". It is more of a "Euro-design" and she will go up against a stock 5.7 CTS-V and will hold her own for sure with her automatic tranny!

I enjoyed the intelligent conversation - best wishes and happy holidays!

Pete
 

·
Registered
07 SRX V8 AWD Diamond White Sport Edition & 08 C6 LS3/418ci
Joined
·
722 Posts
I will post some pictures as soon as the vehicle is complete and will keep you advised as to when the Nivomat Compression pillow pads will be available. We are looking at a price point of approx $250 for the rear set cut from solid billet aluminum.

I also will have available in the "near future" a lightweight complete pulley wheel set that has been custom CAD designed and cut for the 3.6 CTS. I am not familiar with the 3.2 engine, so I'm not quite sure if just the 3.6 "underdrive pulley" would work for that 3.2 engine platform.

There was a thread that was started here some time ago about a member trying to organize a "group buy" of pulley wheels, but Unorthodox Racing needed a minimum of 50 sets due to CAD programming fees and the fact that when parts are cut.....they are utilizing a bulk block of billet aluminum that is designed to produce such a minimum.

Getting the pulley wheel 3.6 specs engineered and then CAD programmed was an expensive venture to cut just a few sets. But now that those R&D costs have been paid.....I own the software and can have perhaps 25 cut at a time in order to make it cost effective for the single purchaser.....but final pricing as of yet for individual sales has not been set as I don't have final prodution costs for a volume run. I will have those numbers shortly.

I looked at your vehicle pics at Car Domain....."kudos" to your headliner and sun visors. I really liked the suede or microfiber look that you choose. Very nice indeed.

I also own a 2004 SRX AWD V-8 with the same diamond white paint. I would pull those front and rear calipers off and have them powdercoated in a gunmetal black metal-flake or a darker metallic metal-flake color of your choosing with a final clear epoxy finish PC coat. It will look alot better than that red high temp caliper paint on your front PBR caliper and tie in with the overall appearance of your vehicles color.

That's just my pesonal opinion in the above case regarding your front caliper, but I too started off with red on a diamond white CRX and the black metal flake would tie in so much better which your wheels and what you have done interior wise with regard to your suede seat inserts and headliner etc. The red is just too "out of place" and really takes away from the look of your Baer rotor set-up.

If you want to get creative with your front calipers....you can have the powdercoater stencil the front calipers with: "CTS Sport" using a silicone tape and a 3 stage PC process......which would be as follows: PC them first in white, apply the silicone stencil that says" CTS SPORT on the front of the caliper face and then PC them in Black metal flake. After they bake in the oven, the powdercoater would then remove the silicone stencil to reveal the white "CTS SPORT" insiginia on the black metal flake caliper and then he would PC the entire caliper in clear coat . This entire 3 stage process should not cost you more than $175.00 for both front calipers and brackets.

Again....the above is just my perspective on your vehicle since it seems that you have gone the white and black/grey/gun metal look overall and the red front calipers just seems to look like the "red haired step child" on an otherwise fantastic color-keyed set-up.

Other than that.....fantstic job on you interior! Top shelf selection on the Headrest LCD's so money is obviously not an issue as well as the extensive use of suede and the visor LCD.......gorgeous!

Will be back in touch....gotta run to a football game....Best regards and happy holidays!

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,726 Posts
You know its funny you say that because for a while now the calipers have been bothering me....You are exactly right with the black on silver color idea that I was going for, but the calipers have always bothered me. I feel the red pops out more than a black or grey but I am thinking about changing it....I dunno I feel like its kinda riceish......I was thinking about powdercoating it, but was swayed against it by people who told me the high temp may melt some of the internal parts and screw up the system.....Since your from Maryland do you have a place in mind for the stencil Idea? I was thinking of that also....And when I am back in DC we should defn get together!
 

·
Registered
07 SRX V8 AWD Diamond White Sport Edition & 08 C6 LS3/418ci
Joined
·
722 Posts
There is absolutely no concern with regard to getting your calipers powdercoated. The only concern is if you have " vulcanized rubber" dust boots on the PBR caliper pistons which is highly unlikely. I'm sorry but I can't remember whether or not the PBR caliper has a dust boot on it's pistons. But if it does, you can remove the boots very, very easily.

If my memory serves me correctly....there are no dust boots on the PBR caliper pistons. The caliper internal seals are silicone and will withstand the 350 to 400 degree oven temperature without any problem whatsovever. You can literally place a piece of silicone rubber in boiling water without any damage. Remember that your pistons are designed to handle thermal temperatures in the 500 to 900 degree range. The PC oven is 350 degrees on average.

The only caveat with powdercoating a brake caliper is to be sure that you remove the caliper bleeder screws and either replace them with dummy bolts or make sure that your powdercoater plugs the bleeder holes and mounting holes (rabbit ears) with silicone rubber plugs. You don't want PC buildup in those threaded holes or the mounting ears, nor do you want PC on the bleeder valves otherwise you'll never be able to break them loose to bleed the system!

The powdercoater should also silicone plug the pistons with silicone rubber plugs. Other than that, there is no disassembly of the caliper that is really required, other than removing the brake pads! Any of the calipers internal components will be fine at 350 to 400 degrees. No problem at all, I assure you. I've had dozens and dozens of calipers powdercoated and I have never had a problem as long as they are prepped properly and always are.

With regard to the silicone tape for your CTS Sport stencil.....go to the following website: www.Powdermarket.com

At this site you can order a sheet or roll of silicone tape that is at least 3" wide. Take that tape to your local express sign shop. ( i.e Signs by Tomorrow). They can create the CTS SPORT stencil using a computer and any font of your choice and print it out for transfer on thin transfer vinyl. That should not run you more than $25.00 If fact....if you go to an office supply store, you can buy the transfer vinyl for most ink jet printers and create the stencil yourself!

You'll apply that vinyl stencil intact to the face of the silicone tape. You'll then have to carefully trim out the CTS Sport letters once they are applied to the silicone tape with a very sharp surgical blade and then remove the black vinyl from the silicone tape. What you will be left with are your "die cut" CTS Sport stencil letters on silicone tape.

The PC guy will PC your calipers in white ( stage 1 ) and then apply your CTS Sport silicone tape stenciled letters to the face of the PBR calipers and then will shoot the caliper again with your stage 2 color.....gunmetal gray flake metallic for example.

When the caliper comes out of the oven.....the CTS Sport silicone tape letters are removed and what you are left with is a gray/black metallic flake caliper with custom white CTS Sport letters printed on the calipers face!

Finally the powdercoater will reshoot the entire caliper with a clear coat PC for added protection regarding durability and added gloss and depth. This is what is referred to as a stage 3 PC coat.

I would suggest that when you log onto www.Powdermarket.com that you call their customer service department. Make sure that you order the 400 degree "green tape".

I also believe that they now sell the "green tape" in 8x10 sheets. If that is the case....you can simply take the sheets to the local sign shop and they can print your stencil directly onto the face of the tape sheet and then all you have to do is trim our the individual CTS Sport letters. You may be able to even do this part yourself if you have a decent printer and access to some nice fonts to play with. But again......your looking at the cost of some tape and maybe $25.00 at the sign shop if they do it and maybe some trimming on your end......sometimes the sign shop will do it for you.

But neverthless....call the customer service number at the website that I gave you and inquire about some single sheets rather than a tape roll as the flat single sheets may now be available.

With regard to powdercoaters.....www.eastcoastpowdercoat.com

They are the very best and about 30 minutes from my home. If you need anything done.....you can ship it to me and I would be glad to drop it off for you as I go there regularly and know the owner on a personal basis and get some more favorable pricing when I am having a large number of items PC'd all at once when they are shooting one color.

Plus I will make sure that Scott has a clear understanding of what you want done and then they can ship them back to you when they are finished. Turnaround time is about 14 days realistically. Check out their catalog of colors that are available 1000+ colors......you will be amazed. They have a chrome PC process that even Jesse James himself would swear is triple plated chrome!

If you decide to go the PC route....I would suggest dumping those red painted brake pads and install the HAWK Performance Ceramic pads or the Hawk HPS Composite Street Pads. Whatever you do, do not install the Hawk HP Plus racing pads as they will eat your Baer rotors alive.

The Hawk Performance Ceramic brake pads and Hawk HPS Composite Pads sometimes come with a nice silver backed finish to them; that when exposed as they are on a PBR caliper the silver color would compliment the PC'd PBR caliper housing and mounting bracket. If they don't come in silver backing as they sometimes don't...you can always spray paint the exposed backing of the brake pad with any high temperature VHT epoxy paint that would compliment you PC colored caliper housing.

I would also do the same PC process for the rear calipers as it appears that you have also have a rear Baer rotor and your OEM single piston factory PBR caliper that is mounted outbound with the Baer caliper mounting bracket.

As I mentioned above...do not install the Hawk High Peformance Composite Racing Pad. That particular brake pad requires alot of thermal heat to properly bed itself and is designed for very aggressive repeated stop and go driving in order to come to thermal temperature, properly bed itself and to avoid "low temperature" brake fade.

If you were to install those Racing pads on a "street vehicle".....the moment you attempted to stop at a traffic signal from 50 or 60+ mph, you would literally punt the car parked in front of you! That composite Hawk Racing pad is a true race track pad and is not designed at all for street applications.

If I can be of any help or if you have any questions regarding powdercoating, vacuum wrapping parts or chrome plating....don't hesitiate to ask. Been down that road 101 times with custom built motorcyles and cars.

One final question for you is "who" did your headliner and visors. I love that suede matte look. Is it actually suede or microfiber? And could you give me some idea of what the cost was regarding the headliner and visors and also what the visor LCD installation cost was? That is very Euro looking and great work.....my compliments!

best regards -Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,726 Posts
Pete your posts are well thought out and very informative, that is very much appreciated....
I am not sure what part of Maryland this is, but I live in northern northern virginia (mclean) 5 minutes from bethesda, so I will definately get in contact with you this summer (when I can afford to have the car down) and we can go crazy on the powdercoating, I actually have a few things I would like to get done, so this may work out excellantly.

As for your questions on the visors and Headliner. The headliner was done in Richmond by carrss. All the suede (they call it supersuede is is microfiber) seat inserts headliner etc etc cost about 1000-1500 i think...A good upholstery shop could do a better job probably and probably at a better price. Look for someone that does a lot of high quality hot rods. Also stay with a normal color to prevent fading. www.hotcarrss.com

As for the headrest monitors and visor monitor I cant quite remember the cost (I also got an incredible deal because my brother worked at the shop at one point) but it was done at Hurleys Auto Audio. I would recommend them for overall satisfaction and non custom jobs, (visors included in non custom) but if you are going for something really crazy I would not use them, even the oldtimers there do not have the skill yet. http://www.hurleysaudio.com/ btw feel free to call them talk to Gary (The owner) and tell him Bandar sent you, he should give you a better deal...Also regardless of what he quotes you it can probably be talked down a bit....Not to kill their business but they have very skilled installers so they mark up their product prices and make almost no money on installation...good service though.

Ok hope that helps.
 

·
Registered
07 SRX V8 AWD Diamond White Sport Edition & 08 C6 LS3/418ci
Joined
·
722 Posts
Thanks for your compliments and reply and the thought is mutual. I will certainley check out those websites that you posted as the microfiber is very appealing and not something that I had given any thought to, but hey that's the purpose of this forum is for; which is to share ideas.

Anyway....I live in Northern Maryland.....Forest Hill, Maryland...Harford County which is zipcode 21050.

I'm very familiar with Bethesda as my business partner lives right off of Tuckerman Lane in Bethesda! Our business office (insurance) is in Catonsville, Maryland 21228 which is about 35 miles from Bethesda and also 35 miles from my home.

So all told.....you and I are onlyabout 1.5 hours away depending on 495 traffic which as you know is a nightmare this time of year around the holidays!

So lets get past the holidays and we can revisit some of these ideas regading the Nivomat shock installation, the powdercoating that you might want to get done and the headliner/visor issue.

Until then.....warm regards & happy holidays - Pete

over and out and off to bed!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Pete, I've installed Eibachs on my V8 AWD SRX with load leveling, any solution for it to not sit up in the rear? Will the CTS solution work for the SRX? Didn't mean to hijack the thread, but not much info in the SRX forum regarding this.

Thanks,
Anthony
 

·
Registered
Black the Darkside
Joined
·
22,311 Posts
pietroraimondi said:
I also will have available in the "near future" a lightweight complete pulley wheel set that has been custom CAD designed and cut for the 3.6 CTS. I am not familiar with the 3.2 engine, so I'm not quite sure if just the 3.6 "underdrive pulley" would work for that 3.2 engine platform.

There was a thread that was started here some time ago about a member trying to organize a "group buy" of pulley wheels, but Unorthodox Racing needed a minimum of 50 sets due to CAD programming fees and the fact that when parts are cut.....they are utilizing a bulk block of billet aluminum that is designed to produce such a minimum.

Getting the pulley wheel 3.6 specs engineered and then CAD programmed was an expensive venture to cut just a few sets. But now that those R&D costs have been paid.....I own the software and can have perhaps 25 cut at a time in order to make it cost effective for the single purchaser.....but final pricing as of yet for individual sales has not been set as I don't have final prodution costs for a volume run. I will have those numbers shortly.

Pete
I'll be looking forward to hearing more about the underdrive pulleys!:yup: :D
 

·
Banned
Cadillac
Joined
·
1,869 Posts
Pietro
Good afternoon! I currently have Eibach pro-kit for the cts installed on my car. I know the V kit is actually a 1.6 drop, but if i installed this kit would it lower my car even more? is it compatible? If so i will sell my springs and buy the v kit....
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top