My driver's side zone seems to work fine but the passenger side just blows cold. Any ideas of how to diagnose? I imagine it could be a, fuse, relay, sensor, the actuator or the heater core (if there is a separate one for the passenger side).
Passenger side heat not working
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I think it's a stuck actuator that allows for the dual zone climate control. Replacement is the only permanent solution, but as above trying to 'shock' the actuator/valve or whatever usually does the trick. Common GM problem
Keeping the dual zone climate in Sync. 100% of the time also seems to make it a less frequent occurrence
Keeping the dual zone climate in Sync. 100% of the time also seems to make it a less frequent occurrence
Is it just me or have blend doors been failing with regularity on most Cadillacs since the early 2000's? My previous car, a 2008 CTS had the issue, and in researching it I found lots more.
I wonder if the search term Cadillac+blend door would result in millions of hits on Google LOL
I wonder if the search term Cadillac+blend door would result in millions of hits on Google LOL
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I know it doesn't help you, but mine works perfectly. We haven't had anything below about 14 deg F (-10 deg C) yet this winter, but it's coming, and I'll be in good shape when it does. My heated seat will absolutely roast my butt after a few minutes. FWIW, every car has it's quirks re HVAC performance, IMHO.
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Absolutely. HVAC in the Jaguar X-type is a total mess, and there is a similar procedure (temp all the way to min, then to max, then change blower setting) to try and reset it for normal operation, which doesn't always work.
Makes me miss my '89 Thunderbird with a simple sliding lever for temp control, push buttons for blower routing, and a nice knob for fan speed. Simple and reliable.
O I don't have the issue with my current car, but it appears that most Cadillac models in the last fifteen years have a higher than normal failure rate of their dual zone HVAC, and often it's the blend door actuator that causes it. It shouldn't take a generation for Cadillac to source a reliable component manufacturer.
It's kind of funny, the blend door in my Mom's 2000 Nissan Maxima (that she bought new) just failed this winter (stuck on hot, thankfully for now). I'd say 20½ years was a pretty good run for the thing!
My X-type was trouble-free for 13 years. Actually was one of the most reliable cars I've owned.
My ATS has been in service for HVAC 3 times in 2 years.
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What year was your X-type?
And you are saying that it blew cold air consistently from the start (without the famous valve spring modification in the ac compressor)? That you you never had blend problems with HVAC? That it didn't leak oil (unless you paid for the extremely involved oil pan gasket fix)? That it didn't leak transmission fluid by way of the transfer case? No constant check engine lights because of the mysterious O2 sensor/cat converter issues? No transmission fault codes because of water leaking into the cabin and getting the PCM wet? No annoying ABS issues caused by the failure of one of the timing rings on a rear CV joint? You didn't have to do your valve cover seals due to oil leaking into your spark plug wells? No replacement of the coolant reservoir due to the chronic cracking issue? No mysterious steering wheel vibrations that are nearly impossible to diagnose?
Sometimes I think these ATS forums are a little "dead," but then I realize that the X-type forum was so active because this is generally where people come to complain or troubleshoot.
Actually, none of that.
2003 2.5 5 spd m/t
2 repairs under warranty, window regulator (broken plastic bit) and driveshaft replaced for a vibration.
Paid repairs beyond 4y/50k: a $15 PCV hose split around 70k, and rear control arms around 100k. A couple wheel bearings some time past that.
I won't count pads/rotors (never a caliper!), tires, and swaybar links/bushings (which are consumables with our roads!) a few times, I was likely responsible for their early demise anyways LOL!
It had gotten pretty rusty in structural areas (my fault) and I traded it in after 13 years and 135,000 mi.
I will say this though, I'm damn glad I was able to trade for my ATS on the spot.
The a/c died (Comp. clutch) while I was car shopping. Didn't matter anymore.
A few weeks later on the day I went to look at my ATS, the Jag lost cruise and abs on the highway, check eng. light came on too. 5-10 miles later it went into limp mode at a stoplight on a 6-lane city street. In downpouring rain. Restart got it going and got me to the dealership. They started it, saw the light show on the dash, and gave me a $500 appraisal which I took - didn't want to drive it home!
Talk about timing!!
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Wow, sounds like you were pretty lucky, and not just at the end. That driveshaft replacement under warranty might have nipped any vibration issues (very common) in the bud.
My car is also a 2003 2.5l, but unfortunately it's an automatic. I bought it from an old lady in 2013 with just 55k miles on it, and now it only has 74k because it was a "city" car that essentially sat around all week and was only used on weekends (but some weekends not at all). The interior is pristine and, frankly, lovely (Jags have some of the best leather out there, in my opinion, or at least they used to), but the exterior looks like it was parked in a war zone. Dings and scratches everywhere. I'm hoping I can sell it to some other "city" person for a couple grand. I've fixed most of the issues I mentioned, aside from the AC. Car still drives pretty nicely, aside from some vibrations between 65-70mph.
My ATS will occasionally blow cold air on the passenger side regardless of system temp. It always happens after someone has adjusted the passenger temp away from the driver's setting, shut the car down, and then restarted it. Then on the second restart, it magically fixes itself. Seems like a software issue to me. Short-term fix is to yell at whoever changed the temperature. 😀
Was your battery disconnected recently, or work done in the dashboard area? There is a procedure to recalibrate the HVAC controller in the service manual. The controller is behind a flap under the glove box right by the passenger door, in the black plastic panel under there. You have to take all the connectors off, wait a few seconds, then plug all of them back in plugging the BROWN one in LAST. Then you start the car and let it idle for a few minutes without touching any controls. I have not done this yet but saw the procedure and figured I'd mention it here.
I had this issue in my 1999 Buick Park Avenue almost ten years ago when that was my college ride. The driver's side temperature actuator failed so I took it off and twisted the rod under the dashboard by hand till I ordered a new one. All that's inside of these things is a little motor, a motor control integrated circuit (IC) and a few resistors. I actually still have the old part, I should open it up and see if I can identify a failure. I recall the grease was very dry and sticky, perhaps the motors started drawing too much juice and burnt out the IC.
Was your battery disconnected recently, or work done in the dashboard area? There is a procedure to recalibrate the HVAC controller in the service manual. The controller is behind a flap under the glove box right by the passenger door, in the black plastic panel under there. You have to take all the connectors off, wait a few seconds, then plug all of them back in plugging the BROWN one in LAST. Then you start the car and let it idle for a few minutes without touching any controls. I have not done this yet but saw the procedure and figured I'd mention it here.
I had this issue in my 1999 Buick Park Avenue almost ten years ago when that was my college ride. The driver's side temperature actuator failed so I took it off and twisted the rod under the dashboard by hand till I ordered a new one. All that's inside of these things is a little motor, a motor control integrated circuit (IC) and a few resistors. I actually still have the old part, I should open it up and see if I can identify a failure. I recall the grease was very dry and sticky, perhaps the motors started drawing too much juice and burnt out the IC.
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