Cadillac Owners Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
2015 Mazda3 S GT Hatchback 2013 Kia Optima SXL
Joined
·
2,817 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
About three months ago I set my parking brake at work. About ten hours later, I released the brake, and tried driving off. The parking brake wouldn't fully release. I finally got around to checking it out today. First I checked the passenger side. I had my 12 year old son inside the car (he was loving this) setting the brake and releasing it. Passenger side working beautifully. Driver side cable not releasing. I had to determine if it was the cable or the caliper. Upon removing the cable from the caliper, the caliper lever sprung back. Caliper is good. Time to check things out with the cable seperated from the caliper. Set the brake, cable shortened. Released the brake, cable stayed shortened. Tried pulling cable out, and the cables protective outer coating ripped. Checked out www.gmpartsdirect.com, and found the cables (both cables) part #25718831 for $45.00 shipped to NJ. Hopefully these are the correct cables. Should have them by the end of the month (fingers crossed).

To anyone in the know (Caddy techs?), how do the cables seperate from the intermediate cable? I briefly tried to figure it out and got nowhere fast. The rear cradle and the evap cannister are in the way. I checked the service manual, and it wasn't alot of help. I am sure that if I cut the old cable, I will be able to seperate it easily. But I will not do anything until I have the replacements to look at. It seems like the cables are crimped to the part that it needs to be removed from. Or maybe that crimped part is part of the cable, and I need to look at a different attatchment point? Please help

Also while under there, I found an extremely rusted left rear brake line. The rear brake lines come down the passenger side of the car. The left line cuts over, goes over the exhaust, and goes to the caliper. The area that runs across the car is the area that is badly rusted. The area by the caliper, and the area that runs along the passenger side looks like new. In the past I have done repair jobs with compression fittings with excellent results. Adviseable to do this? I cannot find a complete replacement line, and replacing the entire line would probably take an act of God to accomplish. What do you think?

Don
 

·
Registered
2015 Mazda3 S GT Hatchback 2013 Kia Optima SXL
Joined
·
2,817 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Well I swapped out the bad cable this morning and what a pain in the a$$. The hardest part was seperating the cable from the intermediate cable. Where they connect was so thoroughly rusted that I wasn't sure that I would be able to get them apart. After fighting with it for about an hour, I got a brainstorm. I used my air hammer with a pointed bit, and a few shots later, the cables were apart. The whole job took around an hour. I only changed the driver side, and will do the passenger side sometime in the future. A few tips for anyone who may try doing this themselves.

Assume that your cables will be rusted as mine were. Have an air compressor and air hammer handy.

There is a compression finger an the intermediate cable that holds the outer cable securely in place. Use a very small flat blade screwdriver to bend it.

During installation the new cable will seem too short. You must pull very hard on the intermediate cable to get the new cable to clip in place.

Other than that it isn't too difficult. I am sure that the passenger side will take me only an hour or less to complete. But I am in no hurry to get it done.

Don
 

·
Registered
98 Deville, '15 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium, '12 Ford Escape
Joined
·
3,294 Posts
Don, Thanks for your post. I replaced my rear rotors and pads this weekend. The inboard pad on the passanger side was worn down to the metal and tore a good chunk out of the rotor. These were the original pads and rotors I can only assume. We would have known long before this happened but the sensors were disabled.

Anyway, I am wondering if the reason the passenger side was so bad is because the parking brake cable is not releasing completely. I am looking at replacing at least one of the cables in the near future now.
 

·
Registered
2015 Mazda3 S GT Hatchback 2013 Kia Optima SXL
Joined
·
2,817 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Easiest way to check is to have someone in the car operating the e-brake while you watch at the wheel. You will see it engage and disengage. If it doesn't fully disengage, then replace the cable. Otherwise look elsewhere for the problem.

Don
 

·
Registered
98 Deville, '15 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium, '12 Ford Escape
Joined
·
3,294 Posts
I'm back at this. I am replacing the rear pads again. They have worn un-evenly and my shop said the ones I bought have a lifetime warranty and will replace them when I bring the old ones in. I'd like to just disconnect the parking brake cable from the calipers but I cannot get it off! Do I need to disconnect the cable in the middle somewhere before I can get it off the caliper?

It looks like if I can get slack (which I cannot at the moment) it just turns 90* at the end and comes out of it's little notch.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
1997 ETC (GAVE TO STEPSON 2011), 2000 DTS (RIP)
Joined
·
1,702 Posts
My e-brakes on my '97 ETC started to not release a few years ago - the grease in the pedal assembly got thickened and gummy. I took the whole thing out and cleaned it with brake cleaner and re-lubed it and it worked and still works great!.

It could be what happened to me came from living in the hot, hot desert here in Phoenix - maybe that doesn't happen in more moderate climates. On the other hand, I don't have to worry about cables rusting out...or anything else for that matter!
 

·
Registered
98 Deville, '15 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium, '12 Ford Escape
Joined
·
3,294 Posts
I finally found the correct page in the manual referring to how to remove the cable. the 'back half' connects somewhere under the car in the middle i am guessing. I just need to find it and release the cable from there. that gives you the slack you need to remove the cable from the caliper.

if anyone can give a general area to where the intermediate area is i'd appreciate it. :)

I can't finish my brake job because my pads are not in stock today so I must wait until tomorrow, 7am. :(
 

·
Registered
98 Deville, '15 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium, '12 Ford Escape
Joined
·
3,294 Posts
I can't edit my last post so here's my update. i think I found the device that I need to disconnect the two cables to, however I cannot get at it very well and it is behind a piece of frame or something right in the center line of the vehicle. I don't feel comfortable anymore with my entire body under my car. I must be getting old. :( I wish I had a lift!
 

·
Registered
2015 Mazda3 S GT Hatchback 2013 Kia Optima SXL
Joined
·
2,817 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I can't edit my last post so here's my update. i think I found the device that I need to disconnect the two cables to, however I cannot get at it very well and it is behind a piece of frame or something right in the center line of the vehicle. I don't feel comfortable anymore with my entire body under my car. I must be getting old. :( I wish I had a lift!
Old at 27? Damn you're just a youngster. Anyway you can disconnect the cable at the caliper by using a pair of pliers (vise grips are my tool of choice here), pull the cable end outward, and pull it through the slot in the bracket. Then you can disconnect it fron the intermediate cable.

Don
 

·
Registered
98 Deville, '15 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium, '12 Ford Escape
Joined
·
3,294 Posts
Old at 27? Damn you're just a youngster. Anyway you can disconnect the cable at the caliper by using a pair of pliers (vise grips are my tool of choice here), pull the cable end outward, and pull it through the slot in the bracket. Then you can disconnect it fron the intermediate cable.

Don
Thank you Don for the vice grips suggestion, worked like a charm. I hadn't tried that method, it looked like I could have broken something. My parking brake is now disabled. I will want it working again 100% so I will be having my friendly neighborhood brake shop replace the cables that go to each side.

True, I am not old by any means, perhaps old was the wrong choice of words on my part...i feel less likely to take risks that could pose threats to my well-being now that I have a wife to look after...i now feel 'fearful' that a one of the two jack stands could fail or the jack will fail when i am completely under the car. :bonkers:

thanks for the suggestion, though, i feel now my brake pads will NOT wear out inless than 12 months with the P-Brake out of the equation for the time being. At least my pads were life time pads! the replacements were free.
 

·
Registered
2015 Mazda3 S GT Hatchback 2013 Kia Optima SXL
Joined
·
2,817 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Do you own a set of ramps? When I changed my e-brake cables, I first set the rear on the ramps. I got the center section disconnected and then did the caliper sides with the car on jack stands. I am another guy who doesn't really like going under a car on jack stands. Although I practically tackle the car before going under just to make sure it is stable.

Don
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top