'14 CTS-V LongRoof; '16 ATS-V Sedan,' 04 Trailblazer 4x4; '10 CTS LongRoof gone but never forgotten
I used 30 weight on my 5.4 ticking time bomb
Sorry, going off memory.wait. are you saying Andy Granatelli was wrong ?
The STP-Paxton Turbocar United Aircraft of Canada ST6B-62 gas turbine, mid-mounted was an American racing car, designed by Ken Wallis as the STP entry in the Indianapolis 500. Parnelli Jones drove it in the 1967 event. After leading for much of the race, a transmission failure with only eight miles left ended the run. It crashed during qualification for the 1968 race; the damage was not fixed and the car ended its career.Like I remember an engineer saying about STP in a race engine: "Won't hurt".
No. The primary reason to service brakes is pad wear. When replacing pads, rotors should be resurfaced or at least deglazed. Prior to doing so, the rotor thickness must be checked to see if there's adequate material left. Modern rotors Often start out so thin (light and cheap) that they cannot be remachined and must instead be replaced . Frankly, new rotors are so cheap its usually a no brainer to replace vs have them machined.So now I have gotten into a habit of checking my oil at every gas fill up (now its like once a month fill up).
I heard you can check your brakes by running your hand across the rotor and if you feel a rim at the edge it is time for a change, is there any truth to this?
The only caveat here is if you go to a garage chain, like Goodyear or some other oil change place. My wife went to Tires Plus with her car. Every time (EVERY TIME) she went there they told her her brakes needed to be changed. After a few times and I told her "no" she thought she was going to die if she drove her car. So I changed her brakes. They had over half the life left in those pads. I showed them to her and she was extremely pissed and never went back to that place. Well, she did go back once more and told that manager what she thought of her. So those free 27 point inspections aren't always the gospel.Monitor pad thickness (usually part of free 27 point inspection while wheels are off for rotation) and expect to replace pads and rotors as sets once pads are down to maybe 3mm.
I agree. Far too many shyster operations preying on the unaware. A mechanic is a car doctor. Folks need to find one they can truly trust, get second opinions when needed, be prepared to pay a fair price for car surgery and avoid the back alley quacks who lure you with cheap work and screw you with bogus upsells. Above all trust but verify. If you are unwilling or unable to become educated enough about cars to understand the differences between brakedust and BS, then you will always be vulnerable to bad advice and malicious cons. Some folks are wealthy enough to abdicate all maintenance to a shop that may or may not be looking out for their best interests. The majority of us would be well served to maintain a certain skepticism. The care and feeding of automobiles is one area where the 1950s model of manly men teaching their wives and offspring about the basics is sorely missing today. Too many folks are just sitting ducks in this respect. Yes cars are complex but owners manuals provide excellent information as to the true maintenance requirements. It is very disheartening to see even OEM dealerships pushing unnecessary profit boosters and upselling questionable maintenance based on scaring customers.The only caveat here is if you go to a garage chain, like Goodyear or some other oil change place. My wife went to Tires Plus with her car. Every time (EVERY TIME) she went there they told her her brakes needed to be changed. After a few times and I told her "no" she thought she was going to die if she drove her car. So I changed her brakes. They had over half the life left in those pads. I showed them to her and she was extremely pissed and never went back to that place. Well, she did go back once more and told that manager what she thought of her. So those free 27 point inspections aren't always the gospel.
The higher the number, the more viscous the oil. Multi-grade oils have 2 numbers, a cold weight and a hot weight. So for example a 5W30 is rated to perform like a 5 when cold, and a 30 when hot. So what does that mean? Generally speaking, it's ok to use from around -30°C to +35°C (-22°F to 95°F) ambient air temp, but of course when temps get close to either extreme it's not going to perform as well. It's like running an all-season tire year round. It's not going to perform as well as a performance tire in the summer, and it's not going to perform as well as a winter tire in the snow. But it allows you to run one type of oil year round that satisfies the range of expected operating conditions.So are 0W-20, 5W-20, 5W-30 all interchangeable? I understand that the 20s are a bit more thinner than the 30s. However can you use a 20 weight on a 30 or does it only work the other way around where a 30 can be used in a car designed for 20 weight? It seems you guys think the 30 offers more protection than a 20.