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Blue 1993 Sedan DeVille, 4.9
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202 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Can you guys give me a suggestion on how to paint my front fenders. Both of then cracked because of the metal hood hitting the damn plastic fenders. What a design flaw. Anyway, trying to use the can paint from auto parts store. Can I get it to shine like the rest of the car or do I need to take it to a body shop?
 

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'87 Coupe DeVille 4.1L FWD(New engine '08) 1981 F100 '03FXDL
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879 Posts
plastic fenders? Ever done any auto-painting before? I doubt you would end-up with a good job if you have no experience. There is a lot to know: surface prep/color matching/application technique/finishing/etc. How did/does the hood hit the fenders?
 

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2010 DTS
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It's an art and takes practice. If you've never done it before and want a good job, better have it done.
 

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94 ETC,97 STS
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3,531 Posts
The good thing is: If it doesn't come out good you can sand it off and start over.

The bad thing is: If it doesn't come out good you have to sand it off and start over.:histeric:

The worse thing is: If it still doesn't come out good you can take it to the shop.:histeric::histeric:

You can get matching paint from body shop supply stores, they will custom mix it.

Look around the internet for instructions on body work. I think you need patience and a little artistic flair to do good bodywork.

Read some sites with instructions and if you have specific questions we'll try to help.
 

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Blue 1993 Sedan DeVille, 4.9
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202 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I think I'll probably take it to a shop and see how much they would charge. It's already off the car. Got it from pull-a-part for about $35. Lot cheaper than these other places that wanted almost $200 for each side.
 

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1998 Seville STS / 2013 Chevrolet Impala
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1,889 Posts
The plastic fenders were actually a novel idea, they don't dent as easily as steel or aluminum but they're also very light. The problem is they needed to put some supports on the plastic, because in its current state it cant hold any weight.

But I think it was worth it, considering how light these cars are compared to other luxury cars, even other Cadillacs of similar vintage.
 

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1992 Sedan Deville, 1984 Lincoln Town Car
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759 Posts
while on this subject, I didn't really want to make a new thread but I'm way past caring about the paint job on my 92 Dev. I have a severe problem with body rust on my Caddy, with big gaping holes developing in critical areas and the around the windshieldand the ridge around the trunk. Rain :lildevil: has become my enemy and we are at war. Is Bondo the only thing that I can seal those gaps with? or what is a good substance to seal it with, it doesn't have to be glamorous, but you can imagine just to stop the rust and plug the holes from rain is becoming quite critical for me. Silicone gel caulking didn't cut the mustard and the rust just kept going right through all that. Any advice would be greatly appreciated :worship:. thanks in advance! ( I am a willing student and can learn quick!)
 

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2010 DTS
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Nothing will stop the rust short of cutting it out back to good metal and then welding in a new piece. Anything you put on it will eventually rust through.
 

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93 Sedan Deville 4.9L
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1,005 Posts
If you try yourself dont forget to clear coat it for the shine. I have done body work before and it is a **%*%&% but if you have patience and do good prep work you can get decent results for cheap. If you decide to take it in I would still research online and do the prep work first myself. Without good prep everything else is a waste, and prep is the most time consuming part of the job.
 

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1992 Sedan Deville, 1984 Lincoln Town Car
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759 Posts
Believe me, I have been trying to consider everything needed. but it's scary how fast the rust is eating away my car's flesh. God, we must have acid rain here or something. A seeming expert guy told me the only way is to use Bondo, "even on the big gaping holes?" I asked him. He said yeah. I think Ranger's answer is too far beyond what I can do. the metal panels -Yes, but torch welding is a no-can do for me.
 

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93 Sedan Deville 4.9L
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I would do something, bondo may work better then nothing. I wold try to cover the rust with something, if it didn't stop it totally maybe you can atleast slow it down. If bare metal is exposed then it WILL rust. Luckily in the south we don't have much rust problems so I haven't dealt with it alot, But when I had a few bare metal spots on another car I sanded it and put a primer coat on it while I waited to get it done properly.
 

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Bondo will work, but you must get all the rust out. That means sanding down to shiny steel or cutting it out. If the remaining hole is too big, then Bondo has nothing to adhere to. That is where you have to start welding or applying a screen for the Bondo to adhere to (not the preferred method). Bottom line is if it is not COMPLETELY eradicated, it WILL return in short order.
 

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1992 Sedan Deville, 1984 Lincoln Town Car
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759 Posts
So there is still a smidgen of hope then. I will have to get to it soon before the summer hits. The heat is too killer here and I have to work outside.
 

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I guess there is a smidgen, but without seeing it, it's hard to tell, but rest assured when I say you must get rid of it all, I mean all. I have sanded down rust spots but left a black "stain". That was tiny, tiny rust pits. It returned in a year. It MUST be taken down to shiny metal. If it is rusted through, it's a much more difficult job. Talk to a body man and get some advice before tackling it.
 

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1992 Sedan Deville, 1984 Lincoln Town Car
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759 Posts
the worst hole is on the driver side trunk where the hinge arm is positioned about 2" wide and the length from the corner about 12 inches. it got to the actual hinge inside and is eating that away too. No idea how I could bondo the hinge mount, (yuk! ) when I discovered this last year, the trunk where the tire well is was FULL of smelly putrid moldy water and the under carpet was destroyed. What a mess. That's for openers then there is the stuff around the windshield. I won't horrify you with that information. Most would prob'ly sell the car but it's my "pet project" and I love it! I brought it back from the grave several times.

I have a dremel and plan to get out there and cut the rust out. It's beyond sanding at this point. I was thinking maybe pop riveting some metal in place and then bondo over that. does that sound feasible instead of welding?
 

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1992 Sedan Deville, 1984 Lincoln Town Car
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I would do something, bondo may work better then nothing. I wold try to cover the rust with something, if it didn't stop it totally maybe you can atleast slow it down. If bare metal is exposed then it WILL rust. Luckily in the south we don't have much rust problems so I haven't dealt with it alot, But when I had a few bare metal spots on another car I sanded it and put a primer coat on it while I waited to get it done properly.
I found something at Walmart called, "RUST Converter", that actually turns the rust into black primer. they claim it "Dries to a hard sandable surface. Inhibits further corrosion, for use on all iron and steel surfaces and can be used with body filler". It won't replace the holes but boy does it kill the rust growth. I'll take it.:thumbsup: I need all the help I can get. Sprayed the daylights out of that damn rust today and it did what it says so far. I know it won't last forever tho' (like most medicines)
 

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2010 DTS
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That is good stuff. I've used it on other applications. It works, but I'm not sure if I'd use it on body work. Remember, once you sand it, the rust is no longer encapsulated.
 
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