Thanks for comment i was leaning towards that so i ordered a new connector examining the old one after i cut it i saw there was some play in the yellow wireA good place to start would be to look at the wiring harness for frayed/exposed wires. I had to install a new connector to the MAF and splice the wires because some of them were exposed. I did it with a crimping tool but you can use heat.
I would also clean the connectors with electronic connector cleaning spray. If all parts checks okay, it might be an electrical problem.
Thanks for the comment i just changed those manifold and rear valve cover gaskets along with a new pelleum and plugs i put a good tightening on those manifold screws with my regular ratchet what id didnt do was tighten down that throttle body enough so when i drove it to pick up my wife it started the high reving and jerking ,stumbling at stops so i managed to make in back home used throttle cleaner and found that vaccum leak around the throttle body then tighten them down sad to say the problem been every since then the p0101 and extemly high idleAs posted, P 0101 points to MAF performance. Make sure there are NO air leaks into the intake ducting at or after the MAF.
Also, check the vacuum systems for leaks, when was the last time the TB and IAC were cleaned ? If the PCV dirty air line is broken/cracked that's a large vacuum leak directly into the intake manifold, passenger end tunnel.
Intake manifold bolt torque is only 7.5lb/ft - hope you did not crack a port bolt boss -
Here's your vacuum diagram - click to enlarge, use the < > to scroll - click the little grid bottom right to see the full pictures.
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True i sprayed for vaccum leaks none found since i tightened the 3 bolts on tbI hope you used the correct torque setting for the composite intake manifold bolts. They WILL crack the manifold if too tight.
If there was a leak at the TB-to-water crossover joint then it's possible the new plenum is faulty. 3 long bolts, specific torque settings.
Did you correctly tighten the new plenum band clamp ?
You cannot guess at procedures and torque settings on these engines - do it by the book or you have all sorts of problems. ".... i put a good tightening on those manifold screws......" is VERY wrong.
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OkWithout the OBD-II scanner you may be throwing money and parts and not solve the problem
At the least verify the MAF wiring and its pins are not the problem
Use a multi meter and with the wiring connector off the MAF tuen the key on, engine off (KOEO)
Use the image I supply below and assure each circuit is functioning
You may need to hold probes onto test points while wiggle the wires to see if bad pins on wires
Look close and MAF has pin markings and by viewing the face of connector locations
Pins A and B are for the IAT sensor
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If this was at idle, does that scanner show the MAF in Hz, if so it would be about 3,500 HzHere are some pics of what my little old code reader picked up
As for tge pins on the new maf connector everything check out ok
Ok here is my email [email protected]If this was at idle, does that scanner show the MAF in Hz, if so it would be about 3,500 Hz
I would suspect unmetered air after the MAF so it cannot report what it cannot see thus check again
for ANY type of air leak, couplers, airbridge to TB, PCV or EVAP hose off, leaking
Check for leaks or bad vacuum hoses and your scanner reading should be when engine is in closed loop ( scanner show that PID ? (engine loop) if so is engine in closed loop and ECT showing 180-220 deg ?
Thanks for the information also found the sequence and 89 ft lb specs on line plan to tackle the issue tomorrowJerry nice talking to you on phone
Go back as we discussed, find what the bolt pattern and toque down is for your intake manifold and while at it
recheck all vacuum hoses connected and not broken
Here is an example from a Corvette of bolting down order of the intake manifold bolts
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Thanks for the information also found the sequence and 89 ft lb specs on line plan to tackle the issue tomorrow
I will keep you posted