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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I got the C0045 code. Car has 140k on it so I replaced the left rear hub bearing and the left wheel speed sensor. I cleared the code after the parts were replaced but the code comes back up after a ride of a block or so.
Anybody got a suggestion on what I might check next?
 

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2011 CTS Coupe Premium
Orlando - We take orphans
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I show that as a left rear wheel speed sensor.

•Faulty Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
•Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor harness is open or shorted
•Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor circuit poor electrical connection

A good GM specific code reader may be more specific.
 

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Best guess is the problem is more with the wiring than the sensor/wheel hub. Back probing the wire connectors at the computer and or the sensor or any junction in between is the way to go. Appropriate tools and wiring diagram would be required. Perhaps a professional mechanic and scan tool is needed. Wish I had these resources.
 

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2011 CTS Sport Wagon
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What did the tone ring look like on your old hub? Those speed sensor codes are usually triggered when the tone ring deteriorates and chunks fall off... If that was the cause of the code, then just replacing the hub should have fixed it. You could try putting the old sensor back in and see if it works. If the tone ring was in good shape, then you may be looking at a wiring problem.

If you have a scanner to get to the speed sensor output like jay mentioned, you could confirm you are getting data from the new sensor.

Is the new sensor installed properly so the sensor end is hanging over the tone ring on the back of the hub?
 

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'12 CTS Performance Sports Wagon AWD
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Likely an issue at the EBCM... You can fnd this behind the washer bottle on the passenger side behind the bumper. Disconnect the connector... Inspect the inside... Spray with contact cleaner in both the pins and sockets.. Plug back in and see what it does. I had that same issue in my Sedan. I traded it in on my wagon. I noticed that I unplugged the connector and plugged it back in and the issue went away for about 200-300 miles and came back. Unplugged and plugged it back in again and it repeated... Think its corrosion at the connector.. Especially if the bottom air dam thingy is gone and water hits that connector all the time.

Rodney
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I tried several things. I replaced the new sensor with another one and still didn't clear.
The magnetic band on the old hub bearing I replaced seemed 2b good when I looked at it after I took the old hub bearing off. But new hub bearing installed anyway.
New speed sensor. And cleaned the contacts when reinstalled.
I disconnected and sprayed contact cleaner on the ECBM connector that was described in a helpful post. Didn't seem 2 help.
How do I check the signal at the wire? Or, as was mentioned above in another reply, how do I check the signal at the actual sensor or at the wires? Someone mentioned about some alligator clips and a 1.5v battery?
How show I proceed next.
I really appreciate all the help I'm getting. What should I try next?
 

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You need to find the correct pins at the connector at the ECBM and check the wires themselves with continuity meter... And check resistance.

Rodney
 

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2011 CTS Coupe Premium
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I would start with a scan tool that car read the individual modules. Often an OBD code is being triggered by an underlying fault/code in a specific module and that must be cleared before the generic code can clear.
 

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I would start with a scan tool that car read the individual modules. Often an OBD code is being triggered by an underlying fault/code in a specific module and that must be cleared before the generic code can clear.
Not with a P0045... That is pretty specific.
 
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