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'88 Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #1
I have an '88 Brougham with a 307 and I am wondering what open element options are out there and what those who have used them have done with the breather and vacuum lines that go to the original air cleaner?

Ken
 

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1996 DeVille, 1985 Brougham SAGE GREEN!
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I have a Holley on my HT4100. I tucked the old hoses under some stuff so you cant really see them. Doesnt affect any sensors or anything. I actually have more power off the line and its noticeably louder at higher rpms.

Night Wolf has a 307 with an open element, im sure he'll chime in soon...
 

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'88 Fleetwood Brougham
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47 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I was thinking of getting a 14" dress up unit from Autozone with a new fram filter in it and putting in a push breather element then just plugging the other vaccuum lines.

Ken
 

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94 Fleetwood Brougham
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7,534 Posts
Olds 307's like it a bit warmer in the winter, but I made a dual snorkel air cleaner on my Olds 307 (Cutlass) and it worked well, under bumper ram air (hence my other screen name, RamAirRocket....). I had it fully functional and many thought it was a factory job. Amazing what black spray paint can cover....

Open elements help airflow, but can hurt some by drawing in underhood heat. So a dual snorkel is much more functional and will make more power.

This chart might help some give you an idea if you have a big enough filter for the engine too. Can't remember where I got it, but it is good chart to keep alive.
 

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'88 Fleetwood Brougham
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47 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Olds 307's like it a bit warmer in the winter, but I made a dual snorkel air cleaner on my Olds 307 (Cutlass) and it worked well, under bumper ram air (hence my other screen name, RamAirRocket....). I had it fully functional and many thought it was a factory job. Amazing what black spray paint can cover....

Open elements help airflow, but can hurt some by drawing in underhood heat. So a dual snorkel is much more functional and will make more power.

This chart might help some give you an idea if you have a big enough filter for the engine too. Can't remember where I got it, but it is good chart to keep alive.
Air flow amount is more the concern than air flow temperature. Side note I live in NC so it is very hot and humid in the summer and mild in the winter. Thanks for that chart. I like!

Ken
 

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'88 Fleetwood Brougham
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47 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Ok shopping last night and saw two push in breather options for if I go to the open air element setup. First one is your typical bell shaped metal housing. The other is a "performance breather" maybe $2 more and has an open filter design to it. Thoughts on one vs the other for my 307 application. Keep in mind I have straight pipe through the cat.

Ken
 

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To get it to fit you need...

-your choice of 14" open element filter kit
-adapter/riser air cleaner kit (only use the 1" spacer)
-extended-length hold down post
-2 "APC" breather elements.

You need the longer threaded rod so that you can clear the air cleaner lid. On the 307 the stock rod was just barely long enough, but i put the new one in anyway. On my 425, the stock one wasn't long enough.

The riser kit is so the air cleaner clears all the junk on the engine.

The 2 hoses that you will b disconnecting and putting the little breather filter on (I don't like open hoses) is the AIR pump intake and the crank case breather.... otherwise that is just like an open hole in the side of your valve cover.

The small vaccum line is the ther-mac thing, probably not working by now anyway.

All that stuff I mentioned can be bought at Advance Auto.

I have noticed a bump in power on both my '79 DeVille as well as my '89 Fleetwood Brougham. Hot air or not, it works... and when driving 50mph+ with the constant flow of new air plus the large mechanical fan pushing air back, the overal intake air temp isn't significantly higher then the snorkel setup.
 

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'88 Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #11
OK well I did all the changes. OK I put a breather on that big tube that comes from (guessing the vaccuum pump) on the passenger side under the AC compressor. Ok it seems to not be the best solution, would plugging it be better?

Other than that, it is an improvement thus far!

Ken
 

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94 Fleetwood Brougham
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If it is a vacuum pump, then don't plug it... It won't work anymore... And probably burn up....
 

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The AIR pump will be more noisey, but otherwise will be fine, you *could* leave it open, but I would put the filter on it... plugging it up would be like stuffing a rag down your carburator and trying to run the engine.
 

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'88 Fleetwood Brougham
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Discussion Starter #15
The AIR pump will be more noisey, but otherwise will be fine, you *could* leave it open, but I would put the filter on it... plugging it up would be like stuffing a rag down your carburator and trying to run the engine.
Well actually I have an open filter breather on it now. However there is an option with the air cleaner I got to run the hose to the cleaner. It is tight but when I felt the air pump it was blowing air OUT that hose.

Ken
 

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yeah, they all have that little thing where you could run the hose to it.... that is normally ment for the crankcase breather, not the AIR pump... in either case, its not a good setup and usually more of a pain then anything.

I'd leave the small filter on it.
 

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94 Fleetwood Brougham
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It is the valve that opens/closes the hot air from the exhaust manifold(s) as controlled by the thermal vacuum valve inside the air cleaner near the carb.

It maintains a near constant 100F temp inlet temp.

Yes, it is a hp increase to disable in the cooler temps. For ever 10F drop in temp is 1% hp increase. So you got a cold day for 50F, and instead of 100F inlet, you have 50F, that is 50 degrees, that is a 5% hp boost.

Now, if you block open fully, yes, it will hurt mpg, carbs are not the greatest fuel mixers, so the heat helps vaporization, which without vaporization, you have no combustion. So whatever you can do for vaporization, the better emissions and better economy you can get, and better hp.

I created my dual snorkel air cleaner with dual underbumper ram air, with dual thermacs and when warmer weather, say 60F I would disable the thermacs, but in cooler, enabled. Note that at WOT, the loss of engine vacuum WILL open them to allow in cool air fairly quickly, so you only gain some part throttle gains, not too much at WOT other than some potential of a cooler running carb.

Blocking off undercarb heat actually has better gains. That and a TorquePlus intake gasket (screened) really made some nice improvements in the summer.
 
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