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08 CTS RD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I have a 2008 CTS.
The steering wheel started to shake when you would hit speed of 45-60 and front wheels would overheat. We replaced the disc and brakes. The shaking stop but the over heating continued. We then change the caliper on the driver side as that is the wheel that would heat the most. After we make change it, we ran into the issue of when you started the car, the brakes would engage and stay stuck. We changed the brake line and made sure no air was stuck. Everything seems fine but when you drive you feel a bit of drag or lack of power, and driver side starts to heat up. Anyone have any idea on why front tires mostly driver side heats up , currently no lights and no error codes showing up on the dash. We are seeing if the brake master cylinder needs to be replaced or oil pressure line need to be change , and the Guage isn't working.

Any ideas or suggestions would be helpful
 

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Hello,
I have a 2008 CTS.
The steering wheel started to shake when you would hit speed of 45-60 and front wheels would overheat. We replaced the disc and brakes. The shaking stop but the over heating continued. We then change the caliper on the driver side as that is the wheel that would heat the most. After we make change it, we ran into the issue of when you started the car, the brakes would engage and stay stuck. We changed the brake line and made sure no air was stuck. Everything seems fine but when you drive you feel a bit of drag or lack of power, and driver side starts to heat up. Anyone have any idea on why front tires mostly driver side heats up , currently no lights and no error codes showing up on the dash. We are seeing if the brake master cylinder needs to be replaced or oil pressure line need to be change , and the Guage isn't working.

Any ideas or suggestions would be helpful
You replaced the caliper, but what about the caliper mounting bracket slide pins?
If one or both are seized, the condition you describe can exist.
 

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2023 CT5-V RWD / 2020 XT6 Sport / 2024 Lyriq AWD (reserved)
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Important to tell us the mileage.

Since you've replaced almost everything on the driver's side, the tolerances between the pads and the rotor are going to be small but proper sized pads and rotors should be able to withstand thermal expansion without binding. @Long pointed out the caliper slide pins as a possible culprit to be explored - make sure they're rust free, well lubed, and move freely, If those check out and your mileage is getting up there (80k miles or more), I would zero in on the wheel bearing (hub) as @Tripwire suggests.

Since this is RWD, take it for a spin, bring it home and use a IR thermal gun to measure the temperature of each rotor. Note the difference. They should all be within +/- 10F of each other (in my experience). Jack up the front end so that the wheels are free. Remove the hottest wheel and inspect the rotor and pad, spinning the rotor by hand. Inspect for gap between pads and rotors on each side and see if there's a difference. Also note to see if one spins more freely than another. The hottest one should be slower to spin and if the pad clearance is fine, I would suspect the wheel bearing.

Unfortunately, wheel bearings do go. If you live in a region where salt is used on the road in the winter, they are a bear to remove because the steering knuckle into which the steel wheel bearing is mounted is aluminum and galvanic corrosion practically welds them together.

Good luck.
 

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08 CTS RD
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you guys so much! Car millage is about 113k. We will do what you guys suggested. Thanks again!

We have replaced the caliper 3 times, so I don't think it's the brackets, but we will look into it again and then zero in to the hub
 

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2023 CT5-V RWD / 2020 XT6 Sport / 2024 Lyriq AWD (reserved)
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Thank you guys so much! Car millage is about 113k. We will do what you guys suggested. Thanks again!

We have replaced the caliper 3 times, so I don't think it's the brackets, but we will look into it again and then zero in to the hub
At 113k miles, I will put money on the wheel bearing. Each of mine went (electronically, mind you) starting at 100k miles - which is roughly their engineered lifespan.
 
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