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Where did my fender liners go? I know stealing cat converters is a thing. I wonder if there’s a tech procedure that requires removing them and someone was too lazy to put them back.
I have not done this yet myself but I was getting ready to do it.

Removing the fender liners supposedly makes it much easier to replace the exhaust manifold bolts. It's pretty common that they break. Cheap crappy steel.

I have 3 broken currently on my '10 Esky Premium ESV w/130k

Truth is that there are probably a number of reasons why they could be missing. Auto repairs would be at the top of my list. It's easier to get at some items this way.

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2007 Escalade
2007 Escalade AWD
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Never heard of 22's eating fender liners unless it's lowered.

My '10 Premium has OEM 22's and no such issues.

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When my ball joints broke on my passenger side, it ate up the bottom portion of the liner.
But with suspension in good order, I have no noticeable rubbing.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Are you guys talking about the hard plastic fender liners that cover the majority of the inner wheel well or the fender liner curtains.

I drove my truck home on a mucky winter weekend after being freshly detailed and the amount of splash from the wheel areas into the motor compartment was ridiculous. It's no wonder these trucks have exhaust manifold probs when the salt and road grime is splashed up onto the manifolds.

My old school SS454 has fender liner curtains. These are a flexible plastic that extends down from the hard plastic liner and droops over the upper control arm. Call them "splash shield extensions"

Funny thing is, on the Escalade, I don't see anywhere where the tabs for the liner curtain tabs would be inserted :(
 

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When my ball joints broke on my passenger side, it ate up the bottom portion of the liner.
But with suspension in good order, I have no noticeable rubbing.
Ouch.. I bet that was fun..

Mechanical failure could be a reason. However, stock 22's on a stock suspension.. I don't see it. There has to be a reason.

I rubbed a bit on the rear when one of the air shocks blew. It's entirely possible but again it's cause is mechanical malfunction.

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Discussion Starter #65
Not my truck... the arrow is pointing to the exposed exhaust manifold. I would *think there would be a plastic curtain hanging below the fender liner on stock un-molested trucks, no?

579497
 

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Not my truck... the arrow is pointing to the exposed exhaust manifold. I would *think there would be a plastic curtain hanging below the fender liner on stock un-molested trucks, no?

View attachment 579497
Stock un-molested..

The wide 22's make it kinda difficult to get a good photo but you can clearly see the exhaust manifold.

I live in the South. The truck has always been in the south except for a few quick trips up north to visit family..


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Discussion Starter #67
Hmmmm, interesting. I suppose GM decided the extra $3.26 per splash curtain was not necessary!

Still thinking on making some for mine. I can see holding onto the truck for many many years and keeping the muck out of the manifolds and everything else seems like a worthy endeavor. Old roof shingles will do! :)
 

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Hmmmm, interesting. I suppose GM decided the extra $3.26 per splash curtain was not necessary!

Still thinking on making some for mine. I can see holding onto the truck for many many years and keeping the muck out of the manifolds and everything else seems like a worthy endeavor. Old roof shingles will do! :)
Yep. If it would have saved my exhaust manifold bolts that would have been great.

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Discussion Starter #70
There should be a curtain installed as noted below. My '90 SS454 has them. Just need to make something that takes up the space between the control arm and hard fender liner.

579502
 

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2007 Escalade
2007 Escalade AWD
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There should be a curtain installed as noted below. My '90 SS454 has them. Just need to make something that takes up the space between the control arm and hard fender liner.
Eric, if you come up with something or find a usable replacement, please let me know.
My engine bay looks like the current deck of the Titanic.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Ordered an updated keyfob from Boost Auto Parts. Will see how it works!

Took off the oil cooler line block off plate and re-sealed it as cheap insurance. Somehow the starter bolt on the other side is still leaking oil. Bleh.

Probably going to pull 2 of the wheels that are slightly out of round to have them straightened is the end of the Corona weekend update!
 

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That's embarrassing, but I'll take the hit just to add some humor where needed. This is the first car I've owned in decade that wasn't black. I put the White ESV beside the Black Denali and did a face palm. Having an engine bay that's not black allows the daylight to reflect in and see (A LOT) further into the bay. Tires look bigger, gap between tires and fender liners look bigger. It's a damn optical illusion.

The only thing that's really going on is that the plastic wire loom wrap on the Caddy isn't crumbling off like the Denali harness loom covers. Thinking with a level head now it seems obvious that Caddy plant (TX) used a loom wrap with better thermal protection than the GMC plant (WI). Too much idle time for this mind lately.
Never heard of 22's eating fender liners unless it's lowered.

My '10 Premium has OEM 22's and no such issues.

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That's embarrassing, but I'll take the hit just to add some humor where needed. This is the first car I've owned in decade that wasn't black. I put the White ESV beside the Black Denali and did a face palm. Having an engine bay that's not black allows the daylight to reflect in and see (A LOT) further into the bay. Tires look bigger, gap between tires and fender liners look bigger. It's a damn optical illusion.

The only thing that's really going on is that the plastic wire loom wrap on the Caddy isn't crumbling off like the Denali harness loom covers. Thinking with a level head now it seems obvious that Caddy plant (TX) used a loom wrap with better thermal protection than the GMC plant (WI). Too much idle time for this mind lately.
It's all good man . :)

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Discussion Starter #77
I got some motivation on Sunday, not much going on other than major shutdowns of everything. So, nothing better to than wrench!

Replaced the oil sending sensor at the drivers side rear manifold. Difficult to say the least. Complete "Braille" method (blind) required.

Insert extreme sarcasm, GM did a wonderful job of installing a heat and sound dampener plastic shield at the rear of the intake manifold which severely cramps the available room to get a 1 1/16" socket onto the sensor.

There's a number of videos out there showing the basic how-to but did not see any that just say "climb on top of the motor and just do it!" -- which is what it takes. Jamb your hand back there, feel around and just do it.

Basic tools:

1 1/16" socket
6" socket extension
Wobble joint between the two above
Long flat blade to (gently!) remove connector from sensor

I left the brake booster, evap and fuel lines in place. I was able to get my hand in there without any other headaches. There are some videos of wimps out there that say to remove this stuff. Just do it. Don't remove it.

Method to the madness below. This time I lowered the truck and used an old massive pillow to get comfortable... good news! My right hand is not sore today from being a contortionist!

579650
 

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2007 Cadillac Escalade ESV
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I ordered a new pressure sending unit and going to replace it when I drop the transmission. My hands and joints don't swivel that good anymore. The MATCO tool man had a nice thick foam pad which has now made it into my tool collection, have not had to use it yet. If I had a garage and a 2 post lift I would so be in heaven.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Doing it with the trans out will probably be cake. At one point I dropped the socket and it landed, thankfully, onto a captive area of the trans casing. So close in other words.
 

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2007 Escalade
2007 Escalade AWD
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I got some motivation on Sunday, not much going on other than major shutdowns of everything. So, nothing better to than wrench!

Replaced the oil sending sensor at the drivers side rear manifold. Difficult to say the least. Complete "Braille" method (blind) required.

Insert extreme sarcasm, GM did a wonderful job of installing a heat and sound dampener plastic shield at the rear of the intake manifold which severely cramps the available room to get a 1 1/16" socket onto the sensor.

There's a number of videos out there showing the basic how-to but did not see any that just say "climb on top of the motor and just do it!" -- which is what it takes. Jamb your hand back there, feel around and just do it.

Basic tools:

1 1/16" socket
6" socket extension
Wobble joint between the two above
Long flat blade to (gently!) remove connector from sensor

I left the brake booster, evap and fuel lines in place. I was able to get my hand in there without any other headaches. There are some videos of wimps out there that say to remove this stuff. Just do it. Don't remove it.

Method to the madness below. This time I lowered the truck and used an old massive pillow to get comfortable... good news! My right hand is not sore today from being a contortionist!
This was the first DIY job I did after getting quoted $500-700 for the job.
The sensor was only like $40 on Amazon.
But the placement definitely sucks.
Mine did not have a filter on it and I wish I had one to replace at the time.
I wonder if that may be part of the cause of my constant P007 code.
 
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