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Discussion Starter #41
Rock on brother! Let the fun continue!

Next on my list is straightening 2 wheels. It's tough to balance "square", though, they are zero'ed on the balancing machine. Surprisingly, the 22's ride smooth for as out-of-round as 2 of them are... I suspect it'll be even smoother when they're back to round.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Took a detour for a weekend and decided to do the oil pan gasket. Last couple times I had the truck in the air I Brakleened the pan and surrounding areas to be sure the leaks weren't coming from anywhere higher up. Definitely was the pan and not valve cover gaskets or rear main or crank sensor. The inspection holes in the bottom of the trans bell housing are nice!

One funny video I found on YouTube is a guy complaining about his starter always leaking oil. He was spoofing a sarcastic summary of how the bad pan seal always made it look like the starter was out of oil. "I think my dipstick goes right to the starter, do you think it leaks there?!?" :p

Lots of info out there on doing the pan gasket... and 2 big tales of interweb confusion:

1. The front diff does not need to be removed
2. The steering rack does not need to be moved

The trick on the diff is to remove the 4 bolts holding the diff to the 2 dog bones, then roll the diff forward. It rolls forward into the streering rack and falls low enough enough to get the pan out. If you want to pull the axle bolts and pull it out and lift that beotch back in there, have it at it! Though, there is an easier way!

The steering rack can stay in place but one of the pressure lines needs to be removed from the top of the rack and be pushed forward to give the diff that much more clearance to lay front.

One important aspect of doing pans on these LS-based motors is to put a dab of sealer on the 4 corners where the rear main and timing cover join the pan area. Close-up of one of these areas. This is 5 seconds are removing the pan. EZ to see where one leak was coming from. The bolt hole directly adjacent was suspect also...

578527



Diff and power steering:

578528
 

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I need to do that to my Caddy since my starter leaks oil too. I took a detour this weekend too. Other then replace the burnt out ballast I didn't do any wrenching.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I'm still chasing a minor minor leak on mine.

Last night in the early today I tore it down again to change from a Fel-Pro oil pan gasket to an ACDelco.

Surprisingly, there is a significant difference between the rubber gasket surfaces. The metal frame of the gasket is virtually identical in overall perimeter shape, its the rubber surface that's shaped differently between the 2. Funny thing is that the one starter bolt looked like it was leaking oil again. Ha..

This time rather than dabbing the 4 corners of the rear main and timing cover block intersection points with goop, I did a full bead above and below the gasket running the full length of the rear main.

My flex plate doesn't have the typical sling from a rear main leak, so I'm hoping the 2x do-over with the extended sealant option does it.

Anyone have seat wiring diagrams from 2007 forward? Three of the four heat/cool options in mine work okay and I'm pretty sure it is a thermistor in the driver seat preventing the blower from activating.

Passenger side relays click with all commanded options, so I'm thinking it is seat related but would like to meat-her from point-to-point to be sure. "Meter", get it?!

Fillinger with earl now...
 

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I'm thinking it is seat related but would like to meat-her from point-to-point to be sure. "Meter", get it?!
That was pretty rough.
Getting the oil leaks fixed on mine is priority too.
Pretty sure all the fans work on mine, I never hear any clicks when I try the heaters. It shows heat on the panel but neither one ever get warm. I'm thinking mine is the controller.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
If you come across any seat wire controls diagrams, the community really could use a boost.

Old threads from years ago tend to have deadened links to the wiring diagrams. I found a couple diagrams here and there, but, they seem to be geared towards the Denali platform which had the control switches on the doors.

Oil leaks suck. After my second replacement of the oil pan gasket, the starter bolt and starter still leak oil. Ha! I didn't even take the truck for a ride, I just started it in the garage and let it idle for 10 minutes and the drip appeared almost immediately.

It's not the valve covers nor anything higher up like the knock sensors or the block plug above the starter. I'm now thinking that it truly maybe the rear main seal in the leak is high enough on the side of the seal that it's blowing into the cavity of the starter and black plastic block off plate. Bleh.

I don't have a trans jack at the garage mahal and this may be the impetus.
 

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If you come across any seat wire controls diagrams, the community really could use a boost. Old threads from years ago tend to have deadened links to the wiring diagrams. I found a couple diagrams here and there, but, they seem to be geared towards the Denali platform which had the control switches on the doors.
I found the same thing. If I come across some I will post them.
I did not know of any block plug above the starter, I will need to check that. I know my leak is somewhere on the starter side.
The aluminum cover is dry so it doesn't look like a rear main on mine. It's dripping off the starter down the block to the sway bar and onto the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I found the same thing. If I come across some I will post them.
I did not know of any block plug above the starter, I will need to check that. I know my leak is somewhere on the starter side.
The aluminum cover is dry so it doesn't look like a rear main on mine. It's dripping off the starter down the block to the sway bar and onto the ground.
So frustrating, but lots of good practice. I plan on calling a Cadillac super-tech that I know from years ago. I'm sure he's fixed his share of 6.2L oil leaks.

The thing that gets me is the flex plate is completely dry.. and, it only took 10-15 minutes of idling for the drip to re-appear. Maybe I'm overthinking it. I guess if the leak is the seal around the crank, then the flexplate maybe be wet. But, if the rear main is spewing from the vertical side--- I think that's probably the culprit. 2x on the same stupid pan gasket and now with extra goop running the length of the rear of the pan and it still leaks? Gravity. Can't be gravity or the wrench :)
 

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Trust me I know the feeling very well. 6 hours of work and was heartbroken when I drove her to work and saw oil drops under the engine the next morning. I wiped and cleaned up everything while I was under there. I cleaned the inside of the oil pan real good when I had it out, it's fresh oil that's leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I haven't dynoed it yet but they say this a 20hp mod. Got the longest one I could find to suck the air right out of the muffler and make a seamless look from the muffler back.

They say it helps to keep the muffler bearings cooler also.

579176
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Weekend mods were light duty. 20hp muffler enhancer and Escort. I rarely drive this thing but it is nice to back-up Waze with the fuzzbuster. Don't leave home without it.

Eazy install. Used the 2 amp switched fuse in the drivers side fuse panel for main power. Then, the dash mounting studs only inches away were used for the ground. The smart wire to the detector was tucked under the plastic panel that butts up against the windshield.

Easy install, though, the fancy mounting of the knooger button took some time. Creative use of drill bits and smaller than small hardware allowed me to mount this remote control notification gizmo in the pocket that GM decided would not fit anything normal. Thanks to Escort radar, I now an ez way to silence false radar readings while still wondering wtf GM was thinking with this little pocket.

Next up, the bass knob.
 

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I haven't dynoed it yet but they say this a 20hp mod. Got the longest one I could find to suck the air right out of the muffler and make a seamless look from the muffler back.

They say it helps to keep the muffler bearings cooler also.

View attachment 579176
Don't forget one of these.. easiest bolt-on HP I've ever done. Easy 100 HP at the crank. Totally passed the seat-of-your-pants test.

Docooler Aluminum Turbo Sound Whistle Exhaust Pipe Tailpipe BOV Blow-off Valve Simulator (XL, Silver) Robot Check

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Feeling like a slacker this weekend. But, might take the truck for the end of the world rations supplies which includes hitting the liquor store in Delaware. All the carona hype is a bunch of bs!

I did the belts today. It took me 5 minutes from start to finish and it would have only taken me 2 minutes but I told myself that I put the serpentine routing in my memory. Only a moment later, I forgot how it was routed so I had to look at my phone for the pictures I took took and that slowed me down by a minute. Too many Coronas I suppose...

Ex-stripper-mom truck good as new!

579347
 

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Sometimes it's the small things!
I have new belts but waiting to put them on when I install the new water pump. Both are in the back of the caddy and waiting for me to put them in. They are keeping the rear main seal company!
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Ordered the oil pressure sensor from Rock Auto. AC Delco 12677836

I have a wholesale account set up with Napa and it's unfortunate, but, a lot of the time they cannot complete on pricing.

Rock Auto is $36 to my door in a couple days. Napa is $60.

I try to keep things as local as I can but the online price price differential is a bit mind numbing on this one. This deal is a case of Corona! (given the current circumstances!)
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Sometimes it's the small things!
I have new belts but waiting to put them on when I install the new water pump. Both are in the back of the caddy and waiting for me to put them in. They are keeping the rear main seal company!
I'm still dreading the RMS. I seriously might pay someone to come in and do it. I'm handicrapped without the trans-jack is one thing. But, there is a nearby shop that is in between renters and there is a trans jack there. Will probably try to swing a deal with one of the recently laid-off techs to do this.

The good news is that the exhaust manifold studs to the downpipes are new so the front "Y" in the exhaust is easily removed. I'd imagine this is a point of frustration for a lot of techs as busting those (broken/rusted) bolts and studs loose is a pain.

We shall see. Will pay in Coronas. Ha!
 

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The RMS is a PITA. I saved it, ahem, I saved it for my indy tech to do because the pan gasket seemed to go on our Denali every 25-30K too. It's a hell of a lot easier to do both at the same time. While the pan is off it's also a good idea to replace the o ring on the oil pick up tube. When that goes, you're oil pressure starts to go low.

I moved from a loaded 08 Denali XL AWD to an 09 ESV Platinium last month. Mine ESV does not have fender liners in the engine compartment like the Denali does. I wonder if previous owners removed them because the 22's were eating them. The first thing I did notice as a side effect of not having the fender liners was that all the plastic in the engine bay on the ESV wasn't baked and crispy fried. Another fun, furry fact is the unused 4WD selector / coinholder / Escort control slot and the glove box in the ESV are flocked inside. Denali didn't get that. I guess it's a Caddie thing to keep the noise down and coins from sliding around.

Here's a helpful link I found for cooled seat diagrams ....

Heated/Cooled KB6 Seats in 08 Sierra SLT
 

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The RMS is a PITA. I saved it, ahem, I saved it for my indy tech to do because the pan gasket seemed to go on our Denali every 25-30K too. It's a hell of a lot easier to do both at the same time. While the pan is off it's also a good idea to replace the o ring on the oil pick up tube. When that goes, you're oil pressure starts to go low.

I moved from a loaded 08 Denali XL AWD to an 09 ESV Platinium last month. Mine ESV does not have fender liners in the engine compartment like the Denali does. I wonder if previous owners removed them because the 22's were eating them. The first thing I did notice as a side effect of not having the fender liners was that all the plastic in the engine bay on the ESV wasn't baked and crispy fried. Another fun, furry fact is the unused 4WD selector / coinholder / Escort control slot and the glove box in the ESV are flocked inside. Denali didn't get that. I guess it's a Caddie thing to keep the noise down and coins from sliding around.

Here's a helpful link I found for cooled seat diagrams ....

Heated/Cooled KB6 Seats in 08 Sierra SLT
Never heard of 22's eating fender liners unless it's lowered.

My '10 Premium has OEM 22's and no such issues.

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Where did my fender liners go? I know stealing cat converters is a thing. I wonder if there’s a tech procedure that requires removing them and someone was too lazy to put them back.
 
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