[Cal]

So what if I only have 300 miles; I stopped by http://www.eastcoastsupercharging.com today to drop off my friend's Z06 and I think I'll be stuffing around 7k+ into the car for:

what he described as a 'mild' head/cam job - $6500
hurst short throw kit - $250
once we can make it fit, some kind of filter - $TBD
computer (kill CAGS, fix airflow, etc) - $TBD
dyno tune / measurement - $125
suspension (rear, at least) to cure wheel hop - priceless (!)
4 new tires (Michelin Pilots perhaps)

I'd like to go blackwing but there is simply no room I'm thinking. May end up with something like the K&N that MorePerformance has.

This guy does all Vette/LS6 work (he wouldn't touch the CTS-V otherwise) and he says that it should pull around 400 at the wheels after the head/cam and the rest will obviously have to be discovered as we go. Don't think there is room for a charger on it, though at $8k installed it sure is tempting.

Thoughts? Comments?

Notes:

He suggested doing this to break it in, this may be redundant for some of you but to be honest it's my first heavy duty sportscar, so be gentle.

change oil at 2-300 mi (3-400 worst case)
use a basic 10W-30
at 500 mi change again and go with synthetic from that point forth

I will have dyno results when I hit 500 miles or so, will post to let people know some before/afters for those of you considering cracking things open a little (or a lot).

- Cal

edit: head not headER...sorry

 

[Uber-V]

I saw the Lund Cadillac CTS-V with a Paxton on it last weekend. It is a nice and tidy package. Jay Alverez (runs the performance program for Lund) says the car hauls butt. They also have a sweet coil over suspension package and working on a brake upgrade. I know the guys at Baer brakes and they are working together on this.

Additionally, they had a prototype airbox that looked close to production. Call (800) 479-1221 or email Jay @ [email protected]
Tell him Cam from Optima referred you.

 

[trekster]

So what if I only have 300 miles; I stopped by http://www.eastcoastsupercharging.com today to drop off my friend's Z06 and I think I'll be stuffing around 7k+ into the car for:

what he described as a 'mild' head/cam job - $6500
hurst short throw kit - $250
once we can make it fit, some kind of filter - $TBD
computer (kill CAGS, fix airflow, etc) - $TBD
dyno tune / measurement - $125
suspension (rear, at least) to cure wheel hop - priceless (!)
4 new tires (Michelin Pilots perhaps)
5. If your inpatient and want to get some serious power right away get a brake and suspension upgrade while you're at it you wont regret it.

I'd like to go blackwing but there is simply no room I'm thinking. May end up with something like the K&N that MorePerformance has.

This guy does all Vette/LS6 work (he wouldn't touch the CTS-V otherwise) and he says that it should pull around 400 at the wheels after the head/cam and the rest will obviously have to be discovered as we go. Don't think there is room for a charger on it, though at $8k installed it sure is tempting.

Thoughts? Comments?

Notes:

He suggested doing this to break it in, this may be redundant for some of you but to be honest it's my first heavy duty sportscar, so be gentle.

change oil at 2-300 mi (3-400 worst case)
use a basic 10W-30
at 500 mi change again and go with synthetic from that point forth

I will have dyno results when I hit 500 miles or so, will post to let people know some before/afters for those of you considering cracking things open a little (or a lot).

- Cal

edit: head not headER...sorry

What I suggest you to do (In my opinion I'm NOT a car expert) Is to do simple mods first before adding in some huge and expensive power. Since I wouldn't want to jump from the already very fast stock CTS-V to a insanely fast one. Now to the mods For example:
1. Get some new suspension to fix the wheel hopping problem. Since wheel hopping can be bad for your transmission.
2. Start with some simple mods like a air intech system, A exhaust system ,and some bolt-on's (etc.) for quick hp gains.
3 Save your money and skip the tires (unless you burned out your tires

) since the ones you have are still new.
4. With these simple and inexpensive mods you should feel the difference and be happy with the results.
5. If you get impatient and want to add some big power like a Supercharger.I suggest you to get a brake and suspension upgrade you won't regret it.
If you have any questions or concerns please feel free to pm me or just post on this thread.

Hope this helps

Gilbert

 

[67SS]

I have to agree with Black Beast. I'd go with intake/exhaust mods first. From what I've heard and read the stock system is pretty restrictive on both sides, More is claiming 21 RWHP with the intake alone worship: if thats true). Fixing the wheel hop would also be tops on my list

 

[Cal]

Yeah, sorry if I was unclear, not going to do them all at once. We will start with the simple stuff like intake, maybe (even though ECS doesn't agree) throttle body, computer, underdrive pulleys, shift kit, etc.

Exhaust and suspension aren't what I would call cheap since if you're going to modify them, you want to go with as nice as you can get.

I'll probably do it in small increments to get the minor stuff done first, then the ~100hp jump from the head/cam job. Since the car is so new everyone, including shops, still wants to tinker.

I'm not going for 750+ horse like some of these shop racing/show cars do, but if I get beat on the streets enough maybe

The supercharger would only be if I wanted to go to that level, and as I said the engine bay is a lot tighter than on a Z06 so it may take some serious work to get anything quality to fit.

I do want to get rid of the runflats immediately because of their inferior handling due to the stiff sidewalls. Rims I like, wouldn't change those - not a chrome guy.

So even though this is probably more confusing than helpful, I'm anticipating 40-50hp once we're done with thermostat, intake/airflow, and computer work, maybe more depending on what he can stretch out on the dyno. Shifter and tires, and then I start exploring new stuff after I get a feel for the car with the changes.

That suspension from Lund looks interesting, I'll email him for some pricing. The shop I will probably be going to hates Vortech for the LS6 engines and says they have had nothing but problems, so I'm a bit skeptical on that charger.

Why does everyone seem to want to get new brakes for the V? Am I out of my mind or are they already pretty nice with the Brembo, etc.

I personally think the car is nice enough aesthetically that what I am mainly interested in is having it keep its stock look while being able to out-handle and out-class most other cars on the road. Is that too much to ask? :suspect:

- Cal

 

[67SS]

I'm with you on the brakes. I'd take a set of Brembo's over Baer's anyday, those new rotors they're coming out with would be nice though.

 

[lasstss]

You guys have to be kidding, why in the world would you ant to change the V brakes. They have the biggest rotors on the planet with 4 piston calipers. If you want to stop harder get a set of Hawk HP+ pads. Your'e wasting your money. Only the Porsche set up might be marginally better. Unless 150MPH passes are a daily routine its pointless. IMO.

 

[Uber-V]

The stock brakes are very nice but nothing compared to 6 piston Alcon's through Baer - when they become available for the V. Daily driver - keep your stock units. They weren't made for serious track use.

 

[Cal]

If I could find a track around here that I could use seriously, I'd have a lot more than new brakes. That's my main interest, not dragging or wasting 17 year olds in Civics. For now it'll be 98% street.

- Cal

 

[Clintonwmills]

I got a break question, why in the world did Motor trend show the 60-0 breaking distance the same from the CTS-V and the CTS? It is like 121 or something, not very good.


The May issue of Motor Trend magazine has the road test results of a number of auto. The CTS-V acceleration test result were the following.

0-60mph test: 5.1 seconds

1/4 mile test: 13.5/105.3 mph

Braking 60-0 121 feet
---------------------------------------------------------

The CTS with the 3.6L Engine acceleration test result were the following.

0-60mph test: 6.4 seconds

1/4 mile test: 14.9/92.7 mph

Braking 60-0 121 feet

 

[Justin83NJ]

I got a break question, why in the world did Motor trend show the 60-0 breaking distance the same from the CTS-V and the CTS? It is like 121 or something, not very good.


The May issue of Motor Trend magazine has the road test results of a number of auto. The CTS-V acceleration test result were the following.

0-60mph test: 5.1 seconds

1/4 mile test: 13.5/105.3 mph

Braking 60-0 121 feet
---------------------------------------------------------

The CTS with the 3.6L Engine acceleration test result were the following.

0-60mph test: 6.4 seconds

1/4 mile test: 14.9/92.7 mph

Braking 60-0 121 feet

Is it possible that the braking is limited by the traction the wheels are getting and not by the size of the brakes (i.e., anti-lock brakes are kicking in for both models)? If that is the case, the tires in the V are larger (presumably offering better traction), but the V is heavier which would give it more forward momentum at 60 mph. I think it is very possible the 60-0 braking could be the same for both models.

 

[AZstar]

Road and Track lists the CTS-V 60-0 distance as 115 ft.

 

[Clintonwmills]

I think you are right about the anit-lock brakes. When I hit the brakes simi hard the car feels like it is stopping fast. But if I hit the brakes very hard anit lock brakes are going crazy. I was going about 85-90 and had to stop quick and just felt that the car kept on moving. But now I recall the anit lock brakes where going crazy, thanks for the input! If i change the tires out for wheel hop it might fix this as well.

 

[globed70]

The difference in a single 60-0 braking test doesn't tell you a whole lot and will be affected by differing ambient temperatures, surface conditions, and so on.

Upgrading your brakes for the purpose of a single 60-0 test result is a waste. The reason for upgrading should be to enhance fade resistance and pedal feel. A better comparison would be 125-0, and better yet would be multiple 100-0 tests in succession. If you've ever had your brakes fade, you know what I mean... it takes ALOT longer to stop. This is an area where Porsche has always done well IMHO, supported by their successive high speed brake tests not allowing for any fade (my 993 was awesome), and an area where the M5 is not nearly as good (they start to fade under heavy use). However, if you're not going to track the car (road coarses) and don't travel at extremely high speeds with the need for extreme braking (autobahn style), then you won't ever have to think about all of this. The V effort from the factory is pretty damn good.

 

[lasstss]

I ran my impala at summit point a few times with stock rotors and single piston calipers. The road course was a 20 on and 20 off situation. Four runs altogether. All I had were Hawk HP+ pads. I didnt start to pick up fade until about the 3rd run doing 125mph stops on the straightaway. This was a 4400lb car + me. The V should do far better with 500+ less pounds ant those monster rotors with air cooling. A lot of heat shedding is going on with this et up. I think that with better pads you will have more braking than you need for about $60,

 

[Cal]

Thanks for the tips on the brakes, I will also talk to the performance shop I am going to for their opinion on some brands that work well on this line.

Road courses are definitely my interest. Does anyone know of any good ones within about 150-200 mi of southern NJ?

- Cal

 

[benjet]

I have 2 nags on my V that really have little to do with making it go faster, stop quicker or handle better.

1. I want a hand operated parking/E-brake - as opposed to a pedal.

2. I want reverse/backup sensors like the SRX.

While I was getting my tint done yesterday I was talking with the shop owner who I know personally - he does alot of car customization stuff. He showed me an install (<$300) of a German made 4 sensor system which looks dead to nuts stock (yes of course have to put 4 holes in the rear bumper - wired to the reverse lights with an integrated tweeter as the audiable alarm - in the trunk). It sounds cheap and cheesy but it wasn't - it came together just fine, I have seen some awfully FUGLY aftermarket kits to do this, I would NEVER have considered it until yesterday.

Anyone have any thoughts on this idea?

I'm already working on the handbrake idea too.

-Ben

 

[Guest]

Mmmm....hand brake. F-body donor? Hard part is the console.

 

[Cal]

e-brake is, of course, used for those J-turns everyone does in their CTS (as per Matrix)

My other car is an SUV so I'm actually used to the brake there, but it is a pain in the ass to put 2 feet on pedals, turn off, move left foot to ebrake.

I think I'm starting the mod process in a day or two, will keep you all posted.

Back-up sensors are nice in a big car, this one doesn't have a long enough trunk to make it matter in my opinion. I wouldn't drill holes in the rear bumper for it, but if it was an option I would have taken it.

- C.

 

[Cal]

Here's what I am going with for the first set:


More Performance air box - $199
alleged rwhp = 21

Corsa cat-back package - $TBD

Hurst shifter - no idea if it'll fit

tires - Michelin Pilot Sport - $TBD

When I bring the car back in they are going to start fitting it for a custom ATI supercharger. Not sure how they will get it in or which kit they will decide on yet, but it should be a blast (literally). - $TBD

dyno tune - will be done after the charger is in place - $325

overall goal - 500rwhp :worship:

Will keep everyone posted with results along the way.

Other possible changes:

porting throttle body
underdrive pulleys (may get done during charger install)
22" spinners (kidding) :drinker