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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This happened with my 1999 Seville STS. I was driving down the street at about 3am, doing about 35 and this slow car cut in front of me. I turned on my signal light and change lanes. Then I WOT (wide open throttle) to make a light that was about to turn yellow. I did make the light and I was going about 70 or more. Next thing I know I heard a multi-chime, then my DIC said: Oil Pressure Low Stop Engine. Since it was dark outside, I drove the car for less than a mile so I can get to a safe spot to turn the engine off. I think I turned down the 3rd intersection that I made it to, then cut the car off. I turned it back on and checked for codes. There was none. I let the car sit for about 5 minutes, while I checked my oil dip stick (it appeared to at a normal level, but I barely could see since it was dark and my hood lamp was out). Then I turned the engine back on. The indicator didn't come back on so I drove the car almost 5 miles home. The indicator never came back on. When I got home and did some research about low oil pressure, most indicted that if one doesn't turn off the engine immediately upon seeing the warning lamp, severe engine damage will result. What I would like to know is if I damaged my engine for driving up to 3 intersection while the indicator was chiming and why didn't the indicator come back on after I stop the engine and restarted it after 5 minutes??? I last changed my oil exactly 1254 miles ago and my oil life indicator is at I think 60 something. I put 7.5 qts in it and I put 10 30 as usual. I've never had this problem before.
 

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1995 ETC, 75 Deville, Cad500 powered 73 Apollo, 94 Mark VIII
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7,971 Posts
Weird. Maybe a bad connection to the oil pressure sender or a sender that's on its way out. Not easy to tell if there's any damage but it doesn't sound like it. You'll find out sooner or later.
 

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The way that the lifters are set up on the north*,it would be chimmimg like a singer sewing machine...that,s to say ...u would hear the engine tapping or something.Most likely a sensor acting up...
 

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2003 Escalade
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I see no follow up post from 8 years ago that would be helpful.

The WOT remark got my attention. This happened to our 2003 Escalade with the 5.3L engine with 126K miles. It was right after an oil change and I was 'blowing' it out since it is the wife's daily driver. It would only loose oil pressure on start up when hot.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoCQEdXYTGQ

Based on this video and other reading I expected no oil pressure was due to this known GM oil pressure relief valve sticking issue. Finally after 50 miles on this new oil change I decided to add 8 oz of Sea Foam to the engine oil. After running it for 160 miles with the Sea Foam in the oil it stopped loosing oil pressure on start up so we removed the oil and filter and used Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 and another new Wix filter. 1000 miles later all is still good.

We got lucky in that it only did it when hot and even then after 4-5 fast restarts the pressure could come up and stay up. This gave the Sea Foam a chance to work over time. I was driving it 20 miles to work. Pressure was fine when cold but not on a hot restart often.
 

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2002.5 F55 CORSA STS, 2014 Explorer XLT FWD
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1999 STS - 2003 Escalade = two very different vehicles with very different engines, oil systems, oil pumps, filter adapters and oil pressure control systems.

"seafoam" is generally recommended only to clean dirty wrenches. If it cleaned anything out of your Escalade engine oil pump, the lubrication system had been severely neglected. GM/Cadillac specifically warns owners, both in the owner's manual and TSB's, NOT to use oil additives or snake oil cleaners.

FWIW, The FWD series of Seville/Deville/Eldorado Northstar cars had a string of faulty oil pressure sending switch failures. Switch replacement usually solves the message/light problem. When it does not, the next step is to check the harmonic balancer bolt: The oil pump is wrapped around the crankshaft snout, driven by friction between the balancer hub, pump drive sleeve, and crankshaft machined step. There is a very specific preliminary torque value plus a certain number of degrees of bolt rotation after that - it takes a BIG breaker bar to reach that last few degrees of rotation - with the flexplate locked solid.
 
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