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ok guys i will be doing my first oil change on a 02sts and wondering what would be the best oil to use and what grade oil i should use thanks in advance.
 

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Use the grade noted on your oil cap, probably 5w30. Which to use? That'll bring 'em out of the woodwork fer sure! Thanks for opening up a can of worms!. OK, j/k. Most oil sold for cars is blended to at least a minimum requirement and will do what it's suposed to in your engine.

Bottom line, put what you are comfortable with. Dino, synthetic, as long as it is clean and changed at the proper time either will work just fine.
 

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madooch said:
ok guys i will be doing my first oil change on a 02sts and wondering what would be the best oil to use and what grade oil i should use thanks in advance.
Hi Madooch - there have been many, many posts about oil change advice here. Use the Search feature above to do some more looking. Here are two of my previous posts on the subject:

Oil change advice:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=447498&postcount=4

Oil additives:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=466772&postcount=3
 

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How long can the oil last in the car (94 Eldo) if it is mostly garaged and only driven about 1000 miles a year.? I changed it last year and the oil indicator is only at about 90%
I currently use synthetic oil (mobil 1)

thanks
 

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Look at your Owner's Manual. I think you should change the oil at least once a year independent of the milage.

Peteski
 

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jamesmdx1 said:
Why stay away from FRAM oil filters?
thanks
I'm kind of curious about that as well - I've used Fram filters on domestic cars for years without a problem. However, yesterday (in life as in comedy timing is everything!) one of the other engineers I work with had an interesting tale of woe to relay.
Seems he changed the oil on his wifes subaru (no, subaru ownership is not the salient "woe" in this saga) and used a FRAM filter - correct model for this particular vehicle - when he threaded the filter on it only went three rotations rather than the normal ten or so - but it snugged up nice and tight.
He then filled the sump with four and one half quarts of Mobil1 5W30. Satisfied with the job he started the vehicle up and was astonished by the fact that he was oiling his driveway.
It seems that the threads were not cut correctly into the filter housing so even though the filter seemed "nice and snug" the gasket was not compressed against the sealing surface - so - taking the path of least resistance - the oil just lubricated his driveway.
Could this lack of attention to quality during the manufacturing process be one of the reasons for the warning about FRAM products?
I would, however, hesitate to put a FORD product (Motorcraft) into my Seville ....

Cheers

Steve
 

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DFBonnett said:
Found this some time back. Can't vouch for the accuracy but it is interesting reading.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
FWIW
YMMV
I have personally seen and heard of too many problems with Fram filters to ever recommend them for anything other than expensive paper weights. Yes, it's my opinion, and I'm open to discussion. I have seen problems with noisy valve trains at startup on a 99 Camry and an 03 Expedition that were solved by switching filters and a seized Escort engine after the Fram filter casing burst apart at the seam and the oil light didn't work. Never heard of any problems with any other filter brands. So I will not use Frams and do not recommend them, plus I have read too many bad reviews such as the one listed above. Here are a couple others:

http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

And another review of a Fram ExtraGuard from http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html:

Fram Extra Guard - PH4967 - $4.99

Base-plate: 10 hole openings. Thickness of the plate approx. 0.12". The gasket that goes against the engine is squared. Gasket is held in place by 6 pressed lips.

Case: Thickness approx. 0.021", thickest of the group.

Anti-drainback valve: Black rubber. It seemed really thin and flimsy. Thickness of 0.054". Total width of 2.12". Hole in center of 1.0".

The by-pass valve is a plastic piece that is snapped into a coil spring that is attached to the inside case spring that resides at the far end of the paper filter element opposite the base plate (Whew!). There doesn't appear to be any gasket on this valve, just plastic against the metal of the spring creating the seal as best I can tell.

Filter element: Paper - thickness 0.036". 39 pleats of width 0.48". Filter element height of approx. 1.85". 69.26 sq. in. of filtering surface area. The seam of the filtering element was nicely put together with a metal clasp (just like the Purolator). Cardboard end caps are glued to each end of the filter element. Metal support structure inside element to prevent collapse.

General observations: The anti-drainback valve rubber was the thinnest and flimsiest of all the filters. Pretty good glue job on attaching filter element to the cardboard end caps. This filter has the grip area on the outside of the canister which makes it easier to tighten the filter by hand when putting it on the car, the only down-side I've experienced with this grip area is trying to get a filter removal tool cap over it, a really tight fit. This filter appears to be the lowest quality of the group. But it is one of the most expensive of the group too, I guess marketing costs are pretty high here. The cardboard end-caps for the filter element, the cheap plastic by-pass valve and the flimsy anti-drainback valve will make me stay away from this filter. This filter is made in Canada. I can't tell what standards it meets (J806 or J1858).
 

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Since this is the most recent oil thread. And instead of creating a new one. Does anyone know is a 00' STS has the oil life extender in it (knows you drive highway so it will increase oil changes past the usual)? I havent taken numbers and figured it out. But compared to my dads 97' I seem to last longer (much more highway driving).

MacK
 

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The Oil Life Monitor takes care of that. The harder you drive the less life you get out of it, since highway driving is easy you'll get a lot longer life out of it.
 

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You guys are scaring me with all this "Extended Oil Life" Stuff.....
First of all... Everybody knows the NorthStar is a hot running engine... And kinda likes it that way!!!!! That said, I've experienced some engine oil burn off. If your burning off some oil, well then its in your best interest to check/monitor regularly and change every 3-5K! That's what I plan to do.
RE: Oil to use... I'm using Mobil-1 5w-30... What Caddy Recommends for STS.
Mobile-1 actually makes a point of indicating this on their containers! Why wouldn't they right? But I'd rather be safe than sorry!!!
 

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Jamler said:
You guys are scaring me with all this "Extended Oil Life" Stuff.....
First of all... Everybody knows the NorthStar is a hot running engine... And kinda likes it that way!!!!! That said, I've experienced some engine oil burn off. If your burning off some oil, well then its in your best interest to check/monitor regularly and change every 3-5K! That's what I plan to do.
RE: Oil to use... I'm using Mobil-1 5w-30... What Caddy Recommends for STS.
Mobile-1 actually makes a point of indicating this on their containers! Why wouldn't they right? But I'd rather be safe than sorry!!!
Jamler - Don't you think the engineers took these factors into account when they made their recommendations? The only Northstars that require synthetic oil are the ones with VVT. The actuation pump for the VVT system is what requires the synthetic oil properties, not the temperature of the engine or anything else. It's just the VVT pump. When GM tested the Northstars, they tested them in actic cold temperatures and Death Valley hot temperatures, in labs and on the tracks, and guess what? They did all the testing with conventional, non-synthetic motor oil. They do not require nor do they recommend that you use synthetic motor oil for any non-VVT Northstar engine.

On top of that, they spent lots of time and money to develop the Oil Life Monitor system to tell you when it's time to change the oil. They didn't just pick random numbers out of the air, or test it to find out what numbers would work best to wreck the engine just after the warranty expires, they tested it for the oil's protective and lubrication properties after xxx miles under yyy conditions. Iffy Lube wants you to change your oil every 3000 miles, but with advanced technology engines and advanced technology oil formulations, that number is just not necessary any longer.

If you want to do your engine a real favor, make sure to use a very high quality oil filter. I personally believe Fram filters are junk and shouldn't be used for anything other than paper weights. Some good filters include AC-Delco, Mobil1, Purolator Premium Plus and PureONE, and Wix. I'm sure there are other good ones as well. Save your money and use conventional oil (unless synthetic is specifically required) in whatever weight is recommended by the manual, use a good quality filter, and change it when the OLM says to change it. You'll save money, put less toxic waste in the environment, and your engine will last you a long time.
 

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Yeah... I hear ya MCOWDEN... Agree about the filters... I always use the Puralator Pure-One... But when I'm experiencing burn off... Dont you think its better to change more frequently...? Also, are you saying we "Shouldn't" use Synth in the NorthStar? Please clarify
 
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