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2006 CTS-V
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Discussion Starter #1
Well after many clutch bleeds in the past, and some occasional dragging my clutch finally gave out…. kinda

After about 2hrs of stop and go traffic I felt it start to engage farther down the clutch pedal stroke…. And farther and farther… before I knew it the clutch was barely disengaging when the pedal was all the way down to the floor!.....and then it decided not to disengage at all….. stuck in 1st gear I managed to drive her 10 more miles in stop and go diving into the shoulder every time traffic stopped… and jumping across exit ramps up until my exit where I was forced to turn the key off when I ran out of tarmac…. Clutch pedal stuck permanently to the floor.

It didn’t smell like I burned the clutch up, or even like it was hot… but my fluid was brown and had floaters. Keep in mind, I flush my flailing slave cylinder about every 3 months and have for a year or so. I had to get her towed home as the car was too hot to bleed on the side of 355 and it was more than slightly dangerous laying next to my car pretty much in the off ramp…

Got her home let her cool down… and I could disengage the clutch!!! YAY… bled it once again… and she springs back into life! YAY. If you take nothing out of this long winded thread... remember this.... when in doubt bleed your clutch. But it is slipping a little bit (only a bit) and I’m thinking it’s about time to just redo the whole thing. (only 51k miles)

There are many threads about replacement clutches. I’m not going to keep the stock setup.. as long as I’m getting all new parts I’m skipping the UUC flywheel… and going right to the preferred LS7 setup. Luke has sent me a price for the parts (thanks Luke!) Luke’s LS7 parts were ~1000.00 cheaper than the local stealerships OEM replacements for the flywheel, clutch/disk, slave. DANG! (6.0L LS2 )

As long as I’m going the LS7 route I figured I’d get an even lighter flywheel for slightly more cost… the fidanza 198171!... Now when it comes to the LS7 clutch and slave I have read many threads about different clutches..

Luke has some pretty good pricing on the LS7 slave cylinder and the clutch plate/disc.. would anyone out there suggest something else/better before I pull the trigger? SPEC? EXEDY? ETC?
 

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Call Hendrix....Thomas said he's hooking up a deal with Fidanza. He might be able to get you better flywheel and better price.


Is there a clutch install thread?? I'm going to be doing this "LS7" route as well when Thomas sends me the clutch/plate and flywheel
 

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E85 Powered - Maggie'd V
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What fluid are you using? Mine stuck occasionally after my kooks and uuc flywheel. Switched to Motul 600 in the slave, and my shop installed a shim behind my stock slave and it hasnt stuck since :)
 

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my clutch is making what i assume is a throw out bearing noise... its time for me to swap mine out as well.


i dont think i've seen a clutch replacement thread or write up here so far while searching.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've been running Motul as well for about a year.... I'm thinking that I should chuck the bottle as it was opened a couple months ago and may have moisture contamination from sitting on the shelf opened (not with the cap left off... but you know what I mean) :)

Yeah hoping people will chime in with

"here is what I'm running and it works great... here are the part #s"
or
" I tried running this clutch and had to fabricate spacers or order custom parts... don't do it "
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Call Hendrix....Thomas said he's hooking up a deal with Fidanza. He might be able to get you better flywheel and better price.

Is there a clutch install thread?? I'm going to be doing this "LS7" route as well when Thomas sends me the clutch/plate and flywheel
lolly I was really hoping when I hit the search buttom that you had a thread out there for a clutch swap..... your tutorials and step by step are fantastic... but to no avail :( :sob:

You already have one on order with Hendrix? As in parts in the mail? or were you just talking about it? It sure would be sweet to do a group buy of some sort..... but the prices Luke has put our really are a pretty good deal on the stock LS7... what were you toying around with installing?
 

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lolly I was really hoping when I hit the search buttom that you had a thread out there for a clutch swap..... your tutorials and step by step are fantastic... but to no avail :( :sob:
Well thanks bro, but ya I haven't done that operation yet. I'm not looking forward to it either :helpless:

Ya, I'd like part #'s and which parts we'll need, which parts work which ones don't, if throwout bearing needs to be replaced, and all that good stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well The LS7 part numbers are as follows

Flywheel #12571611
plate & disc #24248985
slave cylinder #24237634

The Fidanza LS7 flywheel is part #198171 (replaces #12571611 above)

That's the setup ctsv154 is running. I was cautioned that our stocker weighs like 38lbs, the stock LS7 weighs 25lbs and the Fidanza weighs 13lbs... Luke cautioned that the more you shed weight in the flywheel the more noise/vibration gets transmitted... so keep that in mind as well.

What were you batting around with Hendrix? I'm assuming you didn't buy anything yet by the way you were talking.
 

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Well The LS7 part numbers are as follows

Flywheel #12571611
plate & disc #24248985
slave cylinder #24237634

The Fidanza LS7 flywheel is part #198171 (replaces #12571611 above)

That's the setup ctsv154 is running. I was cautioned that our stocker weighs like 38lbs, the stock LS7 weighs 25lbs and the Fidanza weighs 13lbs... Luke cautioned that the more you shed weight in the flywheel the more noise/vibration gets transmitted... so keep that in mind as well.

What were you batting around with Hendrix? I'm assuming you didn't buy anything yet by the way you were talking.
It's a billet flywheel that Hendrix is talking about....not 13lbs, more like the 25lbs. He's giving me a clutch/p.plate to do a writeup on and he said it's of the LS7 nature (same as flywheel) <- I pay for flywheel
I don't have parts #'s or anything yet from him, but he said the clutch is good for 800 hp. I'll call him tonight and ask about that stuff.

Does anyone have a pic of the "notch" you have to make in the bellhousing for the LS7 slave?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I heard the notch is about a 1/2" with the same depth as the current notch.... just not sure which side of the current stock "notch" you have to put it on. :)


I may just limp my car along until I hear how this pans out for you.... what sort of timeframe are you looking at? .... as time is a factor for me :)
 

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LS7 slave here, no notch.
 

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A local guy with a 530rwhp GTO got his Bird of Prey clutch replaced by a Hendrix one after the first one failed apparently at no cost. Not sure of the outcome on that one but I have heard many guys complain about the Bird of Prey clutch.

My delaer di my LS7 install so its probably wrong and I have had vibration with it since day 1.
 

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A local guy with a 530rwhp GTO got his Bird of Prey clutch replaced by a Hendrix one after the first one failed apparently at no cost. Not sure of the outcome on that one but I have heard many guys complain about the Bird of Prey clutch.

My delaer di my LS7 install so its probably wrong and I have had vibration with it since day 1.
I worked for bird of prey for a very short time,they were hit or miss,i have however gave away over $12,000 of clutchs to guys that had problems but if he has a H.E.X he will be golden:thumbsup:
 

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It's a billet flywheel that Hendrix is talking about....not 13lbs, more like the 25lbs. He's giving me a clutch/p.plate to do a writeup on and he said it's of the LS7 nature (same as flywheel) <- I pay for flywheel
I don't have parts #'s or anything yet from him, but he said the clutch is good for 800 hp. I'll call him tonight and ask about that stuff.

Does anyone have a pic of the "notch" you have to make in the bellhousing for the LS7 slave?
We have our flywheels on the way!!It is not a ls7 style,the pp does not have a self adjuster like the ls7,its the traditional style.We have two models,the same clamp load as the ls7 and one with more clamp load.We have 3 choice of flywheels...billit around 25 lbs....billit at 16 lbs....aluminum at 12 lbs!!..pick your poison..
 
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I'd love to try a non-self adjusting one. I believe that self-adjusting mechanism is the reason they fail from hard use. When the clutch pedal is depressed and the rpms are raised, the stupid thing adjusts itself. It's especially evident on road courses when rev matching for downshifts.
 

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We have our flywheels on the way!!It is not a ls7 style,the pp does not have a self adjuster like the ls7,its the traditional style.We have two models,the same clamp load as the ls7 and one with more clamp load.We have 3 choice of flywheels...billit around 25 lbs....billit at 16 lbs....aluminum at 12 lbs!!..pick your poison..
Tell me what you think is the best way to go Thomas, I trust ya.
What all parts am i going to need ya think?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
What was I thinking? I started this thread to find some combos that worked w/o fabrication... and now I can't make up my mind!

LS7 slave here, no notch.
Thanks! That sure is good to know.... Time to search old threads... someone had to notch that bell housing to get a slave to fit... just can't remember now... must be getting old..... da#$( it

I'd love to try a non-self adjusting one. I believe that self-adjusting mechanism is the reason they fail from hard use. When the clutch pedal is depressed and the rpms are raised, the stupid thing adjusts itself. It's especially evident on road courses when rev matching for downshifts.
That makes sense to me.... (having never had a non-self adjusting clutch) do you have to manually adjust a traditional one then? ... boy that sounds like a noob question

We have 3 choice of flywheels...billit around 25 lbs....billit at 16 lbs....aluminum at 12 lbs!!..pick your poison..
I get having two choices.. a billet one and a lighter aluminum one... but why have a heavier and a lighter billet wheel? Isn't lighter pretty much always better? revs quicker and frees more virtual HP cuz the motor does not have to spin all that weight? Is it noise? or ease of clutch engagement?
 

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I'd love to try a non-self adjusting one. I believe that self-adjusting mechanism is the reason they fail from hard use. When the clutch pedal is depressed and the rpms are raised, the stupid thing adjusts itself. It's especially evident on road courses when rev matching for downshifts.
I agree !
 
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