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Discussion Starter #1
Service High Voltage Charging System err yep! Check engine light on and 2 codes P1E00 & B1325. I looked this up but not sure if it's the same as the problem with the Volts. My coolant looks a little low but not bad. I figured I'd try adding coolant and resetting the codes as some have said that worked but what to put in is confusing. It says use only Dex-Cool premixed 50/50 with de-ionized water. Are they saying add more water to the premixed Dex-Cool???
 

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2016 ELR
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I'm rather clueless about this but saying it's premixed and then you have to add water doesn't make any sense. And then there's this from some site: (last line says it all)


Description
This product is a premium grade coolant designed to specifically meet hybrid car and truck requirements. The coolant is based on a carboxylate technology and has to properties needed to optimize the efficiencies of the new hybrid vehicles.
Meets GM Specification 9986100
Is safe for use in GM Conventional and Hybrid cooling systems
Silicate and Phosphate free
With bitterant Note: DO NOT add water. This product is prediluted with deionized water. Avoid contamination with other coolants, which will reduce the service life of this product.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's what I thought! Why would you add more water to premix?? Anyway I decided to just go for it. It took about 2 cups of Dex-Cool and then I reset the codes and VOILA it's charging again. I marked the tank and will keep an eye on the level to see if it drops; hopefully there's no leak.
 

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Where would the coolant in that system go, anyway??
I'm used to fidding with Merkur coolant levels. The cooling system is very finicky and coolant seems to magically disappear.
I have no leaks... hard to imagine an 80's car without leaks, but I got one.

But an ELR needing coolant, that is surprising. But it's great that it was an easy (and cheap!) fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Where would the coolant in that system go, anyway??
I'm used to fidding with Merkur coolant levels. The cooling system is very finicky and coolant seems to magically disappear.
I have no leaks... hard to imagine an 80's car without leaks, but I got one.

But an ELR needing coolant, that is surprising. But it's great that it was an easy (and cheap!) fix.
Except that it wasn't! The coolant level hasn't changed but the check engine light is back on so I failed. Oh well anybody know of a good shop in the Sacramento Ca area?

My XR4Ti never leaked.... except when the coolant tank cracked or the water pump went out on the freeway! LOL
 

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Well, that sucks. I suppose the car's out of warranty, too.

My XR4Ti never leaked.... except when the coolant tank cracked or the water pump went out on the freeway! LOL
They put everything on the '85-'88's on the turbo side so that it could bake, crack and leak.
Just one of many reasons why I have an '89.

Now, if it would just stop raining...
 

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2016 ELR
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Except that it wasn't! The coolant level hasn't changed but the check engine light is back on so I failed. Oh well anybody know of a good shop in the Sacramento Ca area?
Well that sucks. I hope you are able to find someone who is substantially versed in the Voltec universe. I've been reading up on the Voltec powertrain and very high tech and well thought out. If you haven't seen this, here's a link to a very concise explanation of how it all works.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/262004450_The_Voltec_System_Energy_Storage_and_Electric_Propulsion

Check out page 161/162 and look at how the cooling fluid disperses and gets around, as well as how they deal with very cold temps et al.

Another interesting thing is how there's a module that monitors the discharge of cell groups and fluid temp management. That module connects via data bus (I assume a CAN buss) to other sub modules that allow the system to discharge cell groups that may have a higher SOC. The system then can self equalize the SOC for necessary for long battery life. This is trick stuff and well thought out. That's the next page, 163/164

Anyway, your error codes I hope don't include anything that has to be replaced on top of the T-battery, where it seems like the modules are and all the separate monitoring transistor and resistor assemblies for the individual cell groups. I would think you couldn't get to those unless you dropped the battery...but I dunno.
 

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Except that it wasn't! The coolant level hasn't changed but the check engine light is back on so I failed. Oh well anybody know of a good shop in the Sacramento Ca area?

My XR4Ti never leaked.... except when the coolant tank cracked or the water pump went out on the freeway! LOL
The Cadillac dealership in the Roseville Auto Mall (with an adjacent Volt-heavy Chevy dealer) provided me with outstanding service.

CCC
 

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Super Moderator 2011 CTS SportWagon
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I believe that is a hard code that will have to be taken care of at the dealer, even a good scan tool won't reset it. Lots of info on the volt forum about this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'll give Reliable Cadillac a shot but that brings up another thought. Since the ELR uses the Voltech drivetrain would it make more since to go to a chevy dealer for service?
 

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Best to call and check. The Cadillac dealer has to be ELR certified to work on the high-voltage electronic systems. That includes troubleshooting. There was a list of these dealers when the ELR was in active production. My local Cadillac/GMC/Buick dealer is not, but they do everything else on the car (oil change, alignment, etc). In my case my options are to use the ELR certified Cadillac dealer that is a bit farther away, or my preferred dealer can lean on their Chevy group who services the Volt if they run into a issue beyond what they are trained to work on. I imagine this may vary, so best to call and check.
 
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