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Discussion Starter #1
well crawled under the deville yesterday to see if i can find yet another troublesome oil leak , and i found something worse , a coolant leak between the head and black on the 2nd cylander from the passenger side on the firewall bank of the block , its seeping coolant and making one hell of a chunk of resin from all that burned stuff , i see this when i look between the tranny and oilpan

the coolant has always looekd awful since ive had it but my dad kept sayin " no it doesnt need to be changed and you dont need block seal either"

now im wondering , 115 k on OEM coolant , if that wasnt abuse i dont know what is , so is it too late to change the coolant and add GM blockseal ? and the temp got up to 109 celcius on my trip to orlando last weekend (in traffic) so i suppose the old coolant has something to do with that too , but at least it runs fine ...for now

on top of that ive got a seeping powersteering line crimp fitting ,and the tranny side pan is seeping on the bottom and a bad rear valvecover gasket , bacily im not leaking windshield washer fluid or batter fluid (fixed that with new battery)
 

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Ahhh...... The wonders of ill maintained cadillacs.....

Do a full system flush.... Either by hooking it up to a machine (private shop), or DIY..... I posted a very indepth procedure for doing it and combining it with a Tstat change.... Do a search, and if you cant find it ill post again.......

115k on original coolant is like asking for death..... I bet a substancial amount of corrosion has taken place.... Before your flush, get some radiator cleaner stuff (I used zerex, at autozone) and follow the directions.....

FWIW... If your not getting any coolant in the oil, oil in the coolant, white smoke, or overheating, Id just let it go.......
 

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Sorry to hear it. Did your car come originally with the long-life orange coolant or the 2 year green stuff? A couple of years ago we changed mine to the long life, but I wonder how long before it should be changed because the anti-corrosion additives in the coolant break down. Or I hope the leaks are not typical of the engine or characteristic for the year, etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yaht he coolant isnt getting into the combustion chabers or getting into the oil passages , its a external leak

gonna pick up some claener,gm block seal, and coolant on the way home friday , loks like i got my weekend project

the deville i have has the green stuff , from what im told i cant run the orange , if there is any green stuff at all in the system it will mix with the orange and form a acid that will eat the block, heads,etc alive

yah ive only had this car for 4 months and all the over due maintenace it needs is unbeliveable , makes me wonder about the previous owner
 

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My best advice would be to continue using the green stuff...... Flush it COMPLETELY, and then every year or so just drain and fill the rad...... It will then replenish the cooling system with all the goodies it needs......

If you want to do overkill, you can do seasonal ones (one when it starts getting warm and another one when it gets cold, varying the concentration of AF)......
 

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Discussion Starter #6
"If you want to do overkill, you can do seasonal ones (one when it starts getting warm and another one when it gets cold, varying the concentration of AF)....."

no i did that in alaska witht he g20 , im pretty sure members of greenpeace and the sierra club were following me around it was sick how much i changed fluids in that car ,2500 miles for oil,15000miles for the gearbox , even did brakefluid changes at 15000 miles coolant 3 times a year useing nissan coolant and distilled water , nothing was too good for the G

this thing however , i just follow GMs guidelines ...but i am getting distilled water for it , ill be damnned if im gonna change that waterpump
 

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Stoneage_Caddy said:
"If you want to do overkill, you can do seasonal ones (one when it starts getting warm and another one when it gets cold, varying the concentration of AF)....."

no i did that in alaska witht he g20 , im pretty sure members of greenpeace and the sierra club were following me around it was sick how much i changed fluids in that car ,2500 miles for oil,15000miles for the gearbox , even did brakefluid changes at 15000 miles coolant 3 times a year useing nissan coolant and distilled water , nothing was too good for the G

this thing however , i just follow GMs guidelines ...but i am getting distilled water for it , ill be damnned if im gonna change that waterpump
wtf? I thought you were buying a Fiero? An 87 if I remember!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
nope , was going to get it but had a last minute change of heart (literally) the caddy is gonna hang around for a little while

never got a chance to do the coolant last weekend but this weekend im proabably gonna get around to it and changeing the idler pulley (makeing that worn bearing sound)
 

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Stoneage_Caddy said:
nope , was going to get it but had a last minute change of heart (literally) the caddy is gonna hang around for a little while

never got a chance to do the coolant last weekend but this weekend im proabably gonna get around to it and changeing the idler pulley (makeing that worn bearing sound)
Do not buy the idler pully at Auto Zone! I figured mine was making a whinning noise so I went to our local Auto Zone and purchased the idler pully they said was for my 91 Deville 4.9. A few days later I noticed the bolt that holds the pully kept loosening. The first time I tighten it the starter dragged like my battery was dead. I waited a while and tried it again and then the engine started. Anyway we drove off and when we got home I looked at the bolt and sure enough it was loose again. I re-tightened it. This time when I tried to start my car it did the same thing as before. So I waited and tried it again. It started but the bearing locked in place and ruined my serpentine belt. These pullys are not made correctly for this engine. What makes them lock is that the bolt head rides past the bearing area (which turns) and sits on the actual pully. Glad I didn't take off on a long trip. Worst thing I encountered was a sales reps that told me I should have used a washer, yea right! That's when I asked to speak to the manager. Everything was replaced. Used the original pully that was on the car. It wasn't what was making the noise anyway. Of course someone ould have used a different bolt than what came with this car but it sure looked like the bolt that came with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
interesting .....

well i guess its good i went with a pulley fromg gm in the end on it ....

looking back at this thread ...i see my statement "ill be damnned if im gonna change that waterpump"...ended up haveing to do it anyway .....but you know i havent seen much out of the gasket lately , must have coaught it with block seal at just the right time.....

Wow , since that time its gotten a new tranny($2600) ,waterpump($70),ac compressor($700) powersteering pump($50) ,powersteering pump pulley($15), valve cover gaskets($30) , oil filter adapter($80) , tranny cooler($300), heater core($50), rear brakes($50) , egr valve($50), trunk relese solenoid($50), new grounds in trunk($5),9 taillamps bulbs (&10), a new tailamp socket($15) , battery ($50) starter($75).

i spent $4200 bucks on a car i bought for 4900 ....GOD IM STUPID !!!!!!
 

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Stoneage_Caddy said:
Wow , since that time its gotten a new tranny($2600) ,waterpump($70),ac compressor($700) powersteering pump($50) ,powersteering pump pulley($15), valve cover gaskets($30) , oil filter adapter($80) , tranny cooler($300), heater core($50), rear brakes($50) , egr valve($50), trunk relese solenoid($50), new grounds in trunk($5),9 taillamps bulbs (&10), a new tailamp socket($15) , battery ($50) starter($75).

i spent $4200 bucks on a car i bought for 4900 ....GOD IM STUPID !!!!!!

Look on the bright side! It's still cheaper than the payments on a new car! :D
 

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Stoneage_Caddy said:
interesting .....

well i guess its good i went with a pulley fromg gm in the end on it ....

looking back at this thread ...i see my statement "ill be damnned if im gonna change that waterpump"...ended up haveing to do it anyway .....but you know i havent seen much out of the gasket lately , must have coaught it with block seal at just the right time.....

Wow , since that time its gotten a new tranny($2600) ,waterpump($70),ac compressor($700) powersteering pump($50) ,powersteering pump pulley($15), valve cover gaskets($30) , oil filter adapter($80) , tranny cooler($300), heater core($50), rear brakes($50) , egr valve($50), trunk relese solenoid($50), new grounds in trunk($5),9 taillamps bulbs (&10), a new tailamp socket($15) , battery ($50) starter($75).

i spent $4200 bucks on a car i bought for 4900 ....GOD IM STUPID !!!!!!
Holy screw me over job!!! I had a new tranny put in my deville for $1000. Ac pump was only $235, also had to buy dryer and orifice tube--$40. Tranny cooler?? was yours leaking??
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Trannys is a GM Tranny 5 year 50k warranty

as for the ac ...i need to look into this

Trannys cooler was plugged up from the tranny destroying itself ....got a new external for it instaed of swapping raditors

keep beating myself up over not doing the tranny myself ...
 

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Just wondering, how many miles on the tranny before she blew, i had over 190,000 on both of mine before they got changed. I guess i didnt see the need in having a 50k warranty if they last 190k. Anyway i guess im cheap too!! Mine came with 1yr unlimited milage. Usually if it lasts a year it will last for its usual life.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
it went at 130,002 miles (weill i did drive it 3 miles to the shop hung in first)

im suprised yours went clear to 190k , dont hear that often ...i do hear of engines going that far tho

we plan on keeping it another 100k at least , it will be sold to the little brother when he turns 16 (the warranty will hopefully still be in play 2 years from now )
 

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Ive had good luck with trannys. I bought my 86 it was making all kinds of slushing and gurgling noises when you came to a stop. It lasted me 5 years and 45k. My 82 blazer was pretty shot when i bought it, it lasted 4 years and 39k. My 91 deville motor at 188k needed some tlc. One shop said blown head gasket, so we did the sealer thing, but not sure if it did anything, i still see it driving around town, i sold it about 3 months ago for $800, tranny was trying to go into drive when in park only when cold out, i think it was a valve, other than that the tranny worked fine. It was making the knocking noise for a year and a half, but she still works. One thing to check if you have bad milage on a 4.9, it just wouldnt run right unless you filled the ac up, cant really imagine why??? But it works, had a slow leak, every time i filled it milage went back to 24
 

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Discussion Starter #18
best i figure with the ac charge and gas milage is that with a full system the compressor doesnt cycle near as much , with a low charge the compressor has to engage more frequently killing milage ....
 

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Stoneage_Caddy said:
best i figure with the ac charge and gas milage is that with a full system the compressor doesnt cycle near as much , with a low charge the compressor has to engage more frequently killing milage ....
When the bad milage occurs, there isnt hardly any charge left, therefore no cycling at all. Not sure what the deal is, but it works everytime. And by bad milage, i mean like 12-15, instead of 20-24. I dont think anything on the engine will draw that much power!! I was totally puzzled also, but my parents told me to try that first, even dead of winter, and it worked every time.
 

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cl1986 said:
When the bad milage occurs, there isnt hardly any charge left, therefore no cycling at all. Not sure what the deal is, but it works everytime. And by bad milage, i mean like 12-15, instead of 20-24. I dont think anything on the engine will draw that much power!! I was totally puzzled also, but my parents told me to try that first, even dead of winter, and it worked every time.

This just doesn't make any sense.... For that kind of mileage loss there would have to be a HUGE parasitic loss somewhere that would cause blackened burned parts....LOL

In the winter (in fact, below about 40 degrees) the AC compressor does not cycle anyway no matter what you do to the HVAC controls . You cannot even force it to run...so the amount of charge in the system would have absolutely no impact on the fuel economy in the winter.....none.
 
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