Does anyone else's deville vent doors groan costantly when the AC or heat is on? Mine keep changing position (I guess to regulate temp by mixing heat and cool air) but when they move they groan or creek... everything works great, heat comes out the floor ac out the dash and defrost to the windshield.... can't hear it with the stereo on but when I'm driving around with my 14 month old in the car I usually keep the radio off so I can talk to her and the sound is very annoying.
Not really a problem but annoying...
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Mine did that too, until I replaced the motor actuator, Did you check for some B codes, you might have actuator door movement codes. When I connected my Tech2 and commanded the doors, when looking at the passenger actuator, the one on top behind the glove box, it was moving in a 180 degree circle, then moving again over the plastic, and causing that groaning noise. Only by changing the actuator motor did the noise go away.
I have an '05 - mine doesn't groan but the other day it was nice and cool out so I opened the windows, turned off the a/c and I heard a clidking. It sounded like it was coming from under the dash in the middle. It would click, 2 to 3 second interval then click again. Just kept doing it at that rate. I finally turned the a/c back on for a few minutes and then turned it off again.
It stopped after that. It sounded like it was stuck - trying to close and something wasn't allowing it to close (my guess). To me, the click had a plastic sound to it.
It stopped after that. It sounded like it was stuck - trying to close and something wasn't allowing it to close (my guess). To me, the click had a plastic sound to it.
Where is that actuator motor located, is it a DIY change and how much is the part?
As Ranger said, these motors are located behind the glove box and are directly up and down from each other. Have you checked for the movement codes? If you don't have them, then you probably don't have to replace the motors. If you do have them and need to change them, they cost about 80 dollars and are held in by two tiny screws, (you need tiny hands to get the passenger motor..) Just pop off the armature link and you're in business. This was brought up in another thread but the GM diagnostic procedure does place the A/C programmer high on the list of replacements after the motors. It may be worth your while to have someone with a Tech 2 or Genisys scantool scan the programmer and make sure for you. It could get expensive, or if you can just live with the noise. Hope this helps
Yeah I don't get any codes that are viewable without a tech2 except for the IPC U1255 which until today I thought meant the car couldn't find the factory cell phone that had been removed by a previous owner.... today while decoding my 51 or 52 RPO codes (see what happens when you're bored!) I came accross code UG1 which appears that the car had the factory garage door opener, the opener is not here now but I see where it belongs... soooo maybe my U1255 code is for that? I don't have a garage (yet) so I don't need it and the only reason I was hunting a cell phone is so I could have onstar but after calling onstar and being told that they belive (not sure without checking the phone remotely) that it was analog and will cease to work with onstar shortly I decided I really don't need it. Unless someone has one they are willing to donate to me.
Also I found RPO code YP7 which I cannot decode, any ideas as to what it's for? Finally my paint code is U8933 153 93U (the 8933 I belive decodes to White Diamond but 93U can be that or White Gold - the 153 I think is right as I have a medium tan color leather interior.)
Thanks for all the help guys!
Also I found RPO code YP7 which I cannot decode, any ideas as to what it's for? Finally my paint code is U8933 153 93U (the 8933 I belive decodes to White Diamond but 93U can be that or White Gold - the 153 I think is right as I have a medium tan color leather interior.)
Thanks for all the help guys!
Glad to hear that you had no 'B' codes showing, obviously someone who owned the car before you must have liked the homelink transmitter, and took it with them. I did not have the rpo code, but I do have the little door for where it goes in, I checked with my 'Stealer', (love that name) and it would cost me 200 dollars to buy and that is if I put in myself.
$200 YIKES! Hmm... junk yard / ebay here I come. Anyone know what years fit? I assume that 97,98, & 99 are interchangable but not sure.Caddyshack100 said:
Also I checked on GM partsdirect for those motors and cannot find them, do you have a part #? I found them at Rockauto.com but they seemed too cheap? Under $40 each? Did I not look at the correct part? I think they called it a diverter valve or something. Also that AC/Heat computer is like $500 what are symptoms of that going bad? My ac/heat works find, just the diverter doors seem to have a mind of their own and that noise drives me crazy. I have no codes (as I mentioned above) that could relate to that except my elusive IPC U1255 code (but that shouldn't relate to the HVAC system right?) When I put it on heat it comes out of the floor vents, I don't get any chatter of the doors unless I put it on AUTO instead of economy but even when on AC it seems to work fine, cold air out of the dash vents, defrost works great, defog only seems to clear the drivers side but I can feel an equivalent amout of similar temperature air on the passengers side defroster vents.
Thanks for all the help guys, I just love this car, it drives and looks like new (except that damn scratch of the rear drivers side door that someone used plain white touchup paint on!) with just 60,700 miles on it I belive I have a long time to go before I trade up unless I find a 2001 or newer with similarly low miles at a simliarly great price!
Don't trade up, when you already have perfection. It sounds to me that because you don't have any "B" codes, then your motors are fine, it may be just the actuator armlink, is binding, you would probably have to exercise it with the red and blue buttons while watching it. You would need arms like an orangutan to stretch that far, better to have someone do it for you while you watch the armature movement. Those prices you quoted sound about right, I should point out that I live in Canada and we do not have the same advantages in prices that you get to enjoy. The homelink should fit almost any car (I could be wrong about this) but it is self contained with a battery, and it does plug into a socket in the little overhead console, so it can also be used with car voltage. That is probably why it is not there now. Let me know what you find out.
Yeah, I've got every option I could ever want and then some, I'll probably just add the cd changer and be done with it. It needs a little maintenance but nothing is broken and in dire need of repair. Had new ceramic pads put on the back, fronts have plenty of life left, replaced the air filter (looked pretty new but changed it anyways - not like $5 is a big deal 
) changed the oil when I got her, had a 4 wheel alignment done and rotated and ballance the tires. After the hollidays I want to get the coolant changed (may end up doing it myself) and other than that I don't think it needs anything.... not due for a tune up for sometime and runs great / gets awesome gas milleage (26+ on the interstate doing 80) 22+ in town so it costs me less per mile to drive it even with premium than my 2003 pickup with a 4.7L V8 engine making 275 horses did. Not to mention this car will blow most stock pickups with regular V8's off the road (partially due to the shock factor of a cadillac kicking your butt - people assume because these are big comfortable cars that they are slow!). Haven't chased any hemi's down but my father has a 2003 Dodge Ram Hemi it it makes around 345 HP, and from driving it I'm pretty sure it would outrun my caddy!
) changed the oil when I got her, had a 4 wheel alignment done and rotated and ballance the tires. After the hollidays I want to get the coolant changed (may end up doing it myself) and other than that I don't think it needs anything.... not due for a tune up for sometime and runs great / gets awesome gas milleage (26+ on the interstate doing 80) 22+ in town so it costs me less per mile to drive it even with premium than my 2003 pickup with a 4.7L V8 engine making 275 horses did. Not to mention this car will blow most stock pickups with regular V8's off the road (partially due to the shock factor of a cadillac kicking your butt - people assume because these are big comfortable cars that they are slow!). Haven't chased any hemi's down but my father has a 2003 Dodge Ram Hemi it it makes around 345 HP, and from driving it I'm pretty sure it would outrun my caddy!I know what you mean by the shock factor, I don't think most people are expecting a caddy to be driven with such verve, not to knock Dodge Hemi's, I think they are great engines, but how many of them are stable over 100 mph, not that I would drive that fast, lol, and you would end up passing them at the gas pumps anyway. I tried to order the neochanger mp3 disc changer, but they are out of stock for the near future, seems everybody wants one of these. I don't know if its my imagination, but my dads car is 99 sts, with the 300 hp northstar, but my Deville seems to be much quicker, can anybody explain this, I know the torque is a little bit more 300 vs 295, but the difference is strange, both cars run on the same octane. Mysterious....
Your Deville has more low end torque than you fathers STS so it wil be a bit quicker off the line. He, however has more high end HP so he would make up for what he lacks at the other end. You can either have it at the low end or the high end. You have to give one for the other. Given the choice, mine is low end torque.
Thanks Ranger, I think that I would agree with you about rather having low end torque, it is much more usuable than the high end, unless you're driving the autobahn in Germany...
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