[mikelawson]

I have repaired over 20 engines with zero problems or failures. I exclusively use Norms inserts and felpro gaskets. I see a lot of posts about studs, but unless you plan on tearing apart the engine on a regular basis, there are NO advantages and could arguably have several disadvantages such as not matching the metalurgical properties of the factory head bolt. I don't want to degrade the hard work of anyone here, just wanting to help fellow forum users. All repairs come with a 12 month unlimited mileage warranty and can be extended to 3 years for an additional cost. I leave the engine in the car to avoid electrical issues that can happen with older wiring harnesses in these cars. I also replace any other problems while the engine is down, like motor mounts and power steering hoses, since these are likely to be failed or on the verge of failing. You can email me @ [email protected] or post any questions you may have and I'll do my best to answer them.

Mike

 

[97EldoCoupe]

There are no disadvantages to using studs. None whatsoever. If you want to repair Northstars and earn money at it then PM me. I can help you with this so don't take this the wrong way.

 

[Hogg]

Even if the engine will NEVER be disassembled again, there are advantages to using studs.

peace
Hog

 

[Submariner409]

As a long-time builder of GM big-block and Olds 455 marine engines, I can testify that there are NO disadvantages from using studs vs. bolts. The fine upper threads on studs allow extremely precise torque control and the stud geometry itself allows far more controlled clamping pressures on the head/gasket assembly. I daresay ARP Cadillac head bolts are not the same alloy as OEM, and their studs may be different yet. As long as the stud tensile strength is high enough to allow the required stretch and torque, minor differences in alloy are insignificant. It's the machining, waist diameter, and thread size/pitch which makes the differences. I would much rather land a stud in an aluminum block and leave it alone than try to remove a bolt once or twice. Aluminum and steel gall easily, so anything you can do to lessen that possibility is a plus.

 

[STSj90]

:cookoo: This guy must be crazy.

Here's my opinion, Studs are way better..There are no disadvantages, Only advantages.. Im going with studs no matter what. Its the better, stronger way to go.

If anybody wants HG's done. I say 97eldo is the guy to go to. He seems to know what he is doing and does things the right way. His deals are way better than any others ive seen and he uses his stud kit...

Dont get mad because he's awsome...It is what it is...STUDS FTW!:highfive:

:bouncy:

 

[C0RSA1R]

Maybe Congressman Barney Frank would be more apt to leave GM alone if he knew we were repairing their motors with studs . . .

But seriously STSj90, Sub, Hogg, and countless others on this forum have either read extensively about the repairs that 97Eldo has done, and the time he has put in to perfecting his methodology. I'm not much of a techie - at least not with N* engines, but I've seen and assisted in tearing apart motors out of John Deeres, an old 3.1 V6 out of an Oldsmobile Cutlass, and dozens of smaller 1-cylinder 4-strokes out of regs lawnmowers - but I think that we all see that 97Eldo is clearly on to something. Heck, when he first posted a pic of one of his engine blocks with the studs installed, I swore I heard a hundred palms slap a hundred foreheads, and a hundred voices crying out "Why didn't we think of that sooner?!?"

Several forum members have also had their heads done with his methods and his stud kit, with rave reviews all, so I would bank that he knows what he's doing. One of the guys who weighed in also tunes and does crazy stuff to his cars (AJ), and he used to give his props to Norms inserts. He seemed quite impressed with the stud kits. Asked a few questions, got them all answered, and figured they'd work better than anything else out there.

Plus, with the engine out of the car, I think any other possible problems could be immediately diagnosed. Although I seem to recall Eldo saying he could do them in the car under some circumstances - I don't remember and I'm too lazy to look.

 

[97EldoCoupe]

Thank you to Hogg, Sub, STS, and Corsa-

There's no choice but to pull the engine or drop the subframe to install the studs. But this also gives you better access to the lower seals and other hard to get at parts that may need attention.

I would never do the HGs on a N* while the block is in the car. It's bad enough working in tight areas to get the engine out... and anything that involves drilling and tapping 20 holes should be done outside of the car anyway. I can pull a Northstar through the top in around 3.5 hours- at this point everything is accessible, and part of the engine is already torn down ready to be worked on.

I've sold well over 30 stud kits to date and haven't had any calls about failures yet.

Mike, like I said I can help you out with this. Next job you do, pull the whole engine and try a set of studs. I'm working on something called the INNRS which will be listing shops across the USA and Canada who will tackle the N*s at a reasonable cost using the stud method, with warranty being backed by Northstar Performance. I haven't got all of the details worked out yet but if this is something you're serious about making money with, I can help. What you're paying for _orms inserts and new head bolts can be put toward studs. Up your warranty to two years and keep up the good work.