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Discussion Starter #1
There is a noise only at idle that comes and goes. It sounds worst on the inside than it does from the outside.
I've included a link to many videos, from both sides of the car and inside the car.

Thanks for your help.

http://s165.photobucket.com/albums/u47/gmbound/noise/
 

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2009 Z06 / 2013 F150 EcoBeast / 2008 Twin-Turbo Bimmer
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Sounds like the exhaust is slightly contacting something. Check for clearance between the exhaust and the heat shield in the tunnel. Another thing - Try loosening the nuts on the two center rubber mounts a turn or two.
 

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2007 CTS-V Thunder Gray; 2004 Cowboy Cadillac (SRT10)
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I just put in the Headers and the cats and my cats are hitting the transmission support (I think). I need to check and see how close it is to the heat shield.

Before anyone asks the question, I do have the isolators installed.

I have got the same exact noise but mine doesn't happen at idle but under acceleration.

That noise is reallllllly irritating isn't it?
 

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Yeah, that noise is something contacting the sheet metal under the car.
Look over the exhaust and make sure you have good clearance all the way back.
I didn't get any sound out of that first video.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys, I was out of town in Branson.
Yes the rubber isolator was used.
I'll get under and check the clearance above shortly.

I don't know why there was no audio, but I didn't have time to re uploaded it before I hit the road Saturday. Trust me you didn't want to hear that one either.

But as I said, this only happens at idle. If at Idle I press the gas, it stops.
 

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2009 Z06 / 2013 F150 EcoBeast / 2008 Twin-Turbo Bimmer
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It's been three years so my memory is a little rusty but I recall loosening the nuts holding the center isolator mounts which does two things - drops the exhaust down slightly so it doesn't rub on anything and also lessens the vibration transmitted into the tunnel.

Thinking back on it now, a flat washer or two between the V and the top of the rubber mounts would probably take care of it. ...And don't torque the piss out of the mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
And don't torque the piss out of the mounts.
Too late. I'll be switching out the tires tomorrow. Hopefully while it's on the lift, wherever I go, they'll let me fine tune it.
 

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2007 CTS-V Thunder Gray; 2004 Cowboy Cadillac (SRT10)
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With the headers the catted extension tight against the transmission mount on the passenger side and only has about 2 RCH clearance on the drivers side on mine. I currently have it apart and I'm trying to figure out the best way to get the clearance I need for the transmission mount.

Do I modify the pipe or the transmission mount? Do I loosen the header and try and "twist" it to get more clearance? Not much room to modify the mount So I think I will need to modify the pipes. How much clearance is required between the pipe and the mount/body/sheet metal?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Mine is under acceleration but not at idle. Like the three inch pipes but it is a tight fit under there.
 

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Leave the headers alone. The two areas to adjust are the position of all the cat-back components when their clamps are tightened and the center rubber mounts.

Keep it simple, adjust the center rubber mounts. A very short term test - Take the rubber mounts entirely out. If the noise goes away...
 

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2007 CTS-V Thunder Gray; 2004 Cowboy Cadillac (SRT10)
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I removed the nuts from the rubber mounts and let the x-pipe "hang" and the passenger side pipe is still touching the transmission mount. I have now removed the extension pipe between the catted connection pipe and the x-pipe and then bolted the catted connection back up to the Header. The pipe is still hitting the transmission support without even being connected to the rest of the exhaust.

I looked at the original pipes that were on the exhaust and the bends are different enough to maybe clear the trans. mount. I am going to swap back to these to see if it makes a difference. I will take some pic's of both pipes and attach once I have changed back to the original B&B pipes.

It looks like the original pipe goes straight for about 2 - 3" inches further then the new pipes. Because of this it should clear the transmission mount. I wonder why the new pipes are bent differently then the original pipes I have? (both made by B&B I think)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I over slept this afternoon, I'll have to work on my noise issues tomorrow.
I wish I was wealthy enough to have a lift in my garage.
Jackin the V up and installing jack stands, is half the job.
 

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Agreed, I wish I had a lift also.

OK, I have installed the original pipes in the car and guess what... I have about 1/2 inch worth of clearance and it goes along the transmission support like it's supposted to. Also, I drove the car and absolutely no contact. I however have a leak on the pipe the flange on the conenction is not flat. I can fix this but I would rather get the catted connections fixed and just replace the pieces I have in the car now.

The difference is soooo big between the catted connection and the original connection it makes me wonder if they are for a different car.

I have attached pictures of the original pipe, new pipe, and clearances from the pipes to the trans. support

Close up of the Pipe hitting the Transmission support



These look really nice!



You can drive a truck between the transmission mount and this pipe


Old pipe up next to the new pipe. Extra bend in the new one that causes it to hit the transmission mount.


Should I contact B&B about this fit problem?
 

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Yes, call B&B and let them know about the interference. Historically they've been very good at taking care of issues.
 
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