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Discussion Starter #1
my 1995 STS acts up as well and I need help BAD!!! :annoyed: First off she has about 189K on her and I paid $4040.00 exactly for it two years ago, when she had 162K on her, did a tune up and new exhaust when I first got it, was told that I needed new mounts then, never got around to doing, the dogbone style ones up top are showin some wear, My tranny was acting up reving hard into second, and always wanting to slam back down to like 1500rpms right when you let up of the gas, even at interstate speeds, Im pretty sure the tranny needs some work. About a year ago, I had a problem where it wouldnt start at all, I ripped apart the steering column thinkin it was the ignition swith, wasnt that, so I had it towed up to Cadillac where the said the transmission transponder switch was messed up and the car couldnt tell wheather it was in park or drive. That was $450 right there. Now present day im stuck with the same dilema, go to start it and nothing no wanting to start or even a turn over, it just clicks from under the hood, like the something is relieving presure, (have yet to get the recall fixed on the fuel rail) Sometime though about a month ago, it would go in and out, like go on a streak where it would start for like 3 or 4 days and then go on a 2 week streak of not starting, and now its been sitting for atleast 3 weeks on its longest sitting period to date. Im pretty sure but not positive its not the starter, not the alternator, replace the battery today, and Im clueless what it could be. I can pull up trouble codes but most of them arent on the online look-up thing that everyone on here uses. If anyone can share info that will help I would appreciate it. Someone also said something about the ignition coil?? INPUT NEEDED!!
 

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2006 STS V8 AWD, '95 Ford Ranger
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Bad battery cables. Lugs are loose or connections corroded.
 

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So if I interpret that correctly, you have a new battery but when you try to start it everything seems to power up normally but the starter just clicks once and then nothing happens?

If that is the case I would say the starter is probably on it's way out, but that is not set in stone. Wiring problems could also be the culprit here. How are the battery cables?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah a brand new battery, all electronics work fine, but when I go to start it nothing as if there wasnt a battery in it at all! I read on here that starters hardly ever go out on Northstars. I checked the cables but Im no expert, I washed the bolts in a baking soda and water solution, which cleaned them good, how could I check the ones going to the starter??, also could it be the ignition coil?? I hope its something stupid, but about a year ago when I had a similar problem it was my transmission transponder switch which apparently made the car think it was in drive when it was really in park?? Im not sure. Alot of ODB codes arent on the website generally used by cadillacforum users. Im not even postitve where the clicking noise is coming from, it sounds like its coming from the driver side engine compartment and the starter is on the left correct??
 

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The starter is under the intake manifold in the valley of the engine. It's hard to test because of it's location.
Is it a loud click? What they replaces is sometimes referred to as the "neutral safety switch" which in recent years has taken on additional roles. Sometimes they go bad but it's pretty rare.

Is this the first generation northstar or the newer one with the plastic engine cover? The older one actually makes it easier to get to the starter with the removal of only 4 intake bolts and a couple of brackets.
The newer ones you have to take off more stuff.

There is a purple wire that goes to the starter, it usually runs in behind the power steering pump. Some years had a connection right behind the pump area too. That is handy for testing if you have it.
What you need to do is see if you are getting a crank signal to the starter itself. Let me check in a little while and see if I have a book for a '95 and I can tell you some more places to check.
Do you have a 12V test lamp? Multimeter? Some wires to make some jumpers with?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
could you help me out and explain a little more on how i could test to see if the actual crank is getting a signal, that purple wire is possibly behind the steering fluid thingy,could i use one of those testers to see if its getting proper current??Also a buddy of mine told me it could possibly be the ignition coil??? My car has almost 190K do you think I should keep it or get rid of it as soon as possible?? The guy before me I think might have had work done to it, because a mechanic said the seals appear to be in decent shape, Also I regret installing an aftermarket system to it because Im thinkin it messed with my electricals as well. When people say check your battery cables are the refering to the ones going to the battery, or the ground to the starter?? My battery cable appear to be alright. Whats your whole overall opinion about my ride. The tranny, shifts hard, the suspension needs to be replaced, and to top it off I cant even get it running. I want about a 2000 DTS with around 70K.
 

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Well I'd probably have to actually see your car and look it over to tell you whether or not I think it's worth keeping. Mileage is really irrelevant if the car is in good shape. If it runs and takes you where you wan to go it's worth something.

You don't see any theft deterrent messages on the DIC do you? If you put an aftermarket system in you may have "angered" the theft system but if it is to blame it should tell you that starting is disabled or something like that.
I got the books out last night but then forgot why.... I am really losing it!
I'll look again this morning if I can get to work early to see exactly where the best place to look at this problem would be.
I see you have mentioned the ignition coil, I think you mean "module", but... it should still crank if the ignition module were bad. Your no start would be a "cranks but won't start" rather than a "won't crank" concern.
When you check battery cables, you should check them all. That should have a positive cable that actually has 3 legs on it.
One goes to the starter, one to the alternator and one to the junction block on the left side in front of the strut tower (if memory serves).

Remind me once more today and I'll try to crack that book open and give you some tips on where to go from here.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
here are some more codes, I pulled these this morning they are as follows, P052,P109,I052,S037,S038,S011,S013,S018,S023,S028,S052, Im pretty sure there is more, but I was messin around with the test when I had it running, and pulled a weird one,that was like 152.45 or something like that, I was trying to figure out how to re-run the test after it was done since I couldnt write the codes down really quick. I hear you though on if the mileage thing, its just that Im not loaded and dont have lots of money to replace a lot on this car, and from what I gather they arent cheap repairs. The 4T80E tranny shifts good when she wants to, but I know she will give me problems in the future, most of the S codes are for my suspension, which I know needs replacing. I had that theft problem once or twice before but not in a long time, it did happen though shortly after the system install. More about the cables, do they usually go bad near the battery terminal or like you said they red one with the 3 extensions would I need to check those as well before narrowing it down as the starter. What are your thoughts on buyin one used off ebay rather then the new AC Delco for like 250$??? I really appreciate your help and info !!! PLEASE KEEP IT COMING!!!
 

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There is a 2 wire connector, it's on the right side back by the rear valve cover at the front of the engine.
there are 2 large wires in it. (I think)
One of them is the purple one.
Disconnect the connector and put your test light on the terminal for the purple wire in the vehicle harness end. Connect the other end to a good ground, the power steering line out the top of the pump is a good one.
Have someone crank it and see if the test light lights up.
If it does and the engine clicks and won't turn over, like you describe, then you'll probably have to remove the intake to inspect it and it would likely need a starter at that point.
More later
 

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Discussion Starter #10
alright ill do what i can, remember though Im not mechanically enclined, so I would have to get help on all of harder things. Ill check those wires out though, I was gonna ask you something else about my tune up, I had it about a year ago, and really had no problem with it as far as idle, no it idles rough and surges sometimes, shouldnt a tune up have prevented this?? Also my check oil level used to pop on sometimes and then Id add some oil and it would still be on, so that was another ???What kind of ride do you have?? Or do you just work around N*?? Is there a book/manual I could purchase that would show you the ins and outs off my engine/car, and everything Id need to help with the repair process??
 

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lol, nor are you grammatically INclined... hehe just kiddin man.
they do sell shop manuals, real thick books that repair shops/dealers use to fix cars. there is probably 2 volumes for the 95, so get a hold of both of them and you will be able to access any part of your car with extended knowledge... given you can read and understand the manuals... i can never get those wiring diagrams down, all i understand is the colors lol
 

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I work at a Cadillac Dealership in Alexandria VA.
I have the factory manuals right here on my desk in case I need to reference something.
Let's try to take one thing at a time. The other stuff isn't going to matter if we don't get it started and I am stretched so thin right now I am almost invisible. Try to see if that purple wire has power when you are cranking and we'll go from there.

You can buy the factory manuals from Helm Inc. I am sure.
They are white with nice blue print on the covers.
 

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What about his fuel rail ??
He has said that he hasnt taken it in yet for the recall.
Also has said he doesnt have a lot of money so doesnt make sense since the recall is free.

Could it be the fuel rail reaking havoc and causing these issues ?
 

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No, the fuel rail recall is for leaks (fire hazard). It does not cause the problem he is having.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Im aware the recall is free, the thing is just finding spare time to get it to the dealer, but that is a concern of mine once I get her running! I thought that could be it also, but since the recall is just warning about a fire hazzard then I ruled that out. What is your guys' opinion about buying a used one off ebay?? Theres one on there now going for like 50 I think. Im almost dead set its the starter, do you recommend replacing the gasket when the manifold is removed, Ive heard they are reusable but you would think to change it??? On a scale from 1 to 10, 10 being like dont even try it, How hard would the starter change be???(Talking in reference to me and a buddy trying to do it)
 

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Only one way to learn if you are interested. Do it.
 

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The starter change is pretty easy, but it requires a few hand tools and swivel sockets make it much easier.
Yes, if we can narrow it down to the starter get a set of intake gaskets too. You can bolt it down with the old ones, but it's likely that they might leak.

Once you get it running take it to the dealer and get the fuel rail done for free. Don't buy anything from ebay that the dealer will get you for free.
(maybe I misunderstood what you said there).
They might try to upsell you a bunch of stuff but just take notes and decline the repairs.
 

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Get the recall done as soon as it's running. Let the dealer do it, you get a nice new steel fuel rail for free, how can you beat that?

Yes it's not that hard to replace the starter, but you are going to have to raise or remove the intake. (I just lift them up, but you need some decent tools)
Replace the gaskets if we find that the intake has to come off for any reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The recall is on top of my list after getting this thing running. I wasnt talkin about buy a fuel rail off ebay, I just wanted your opinion about buy a used starter off ebay rather than the full ACDelco price?? I figured that would be the smart thing to do is replace the gasket when doin the starter. So I will go ahead and do that. Im pretty much dead set that its my starter, So Ill work on getting one within the next couple days or so. Well enough about my starter for a minute, what is a good way to tell if my gaskets on my heads are still good?? The reason why Im concerned is because about a month after each oil chancge my check oil level comes on, and Ill add about a half quart to see if that helps but it stays on virtually until the next oil change? Perhaps a bad sensor?? Also towards then end of each oil cycle, my engines seems to knock. (hinting that its short on oil??)Also my change transmission fluid light comes on, and I read on here that you really dont need to change your tranny fluid but like once every 100K?? Factual?? Well I would apprecitate your response and continue to thank you for you input!!
 

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Monitor your oil level regularly. There are lots of places oil can leak on a N* but most of them don't have much to do with head gaskets.
Sometimes it's cheaper to just keep putting oil in. If the low oil light is on check the level, if its' not low it's probalby a bad sensor. They fail plenty.

Trans service intervals vary based on driving. A flush with the proper fluid is a good idea if it's been maintained, but can wreak havoc on an older trans that hasn't had much service. Changing the filters in the lower pan is probably a good idea but not really required. It only lets you change out about 6 quarts of fluid and the 4T80 holds a lot more than that.

If you are comfortable buying a starter off of ebay I guess you could. Even if you don't buy it at the dealer, find someplace that will stand behind it in case you have problems. Many rebuilders are lazy.
 
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