Cadillac Owners Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just got done changing my front struts. I knew that they were bad, because whenver I hit a railroad crossing, the front end would bob a couple times... but it wouldn't on normal driving. I thought that was strange, combined with the fact that whenever I hit a big expansion joint or patch the steering column would shake.

Then it hit me -- the struts were so far gone that the front end was sitting on the bump stops, that's why I only saw the bobbing when I went over a railroad track -- that is what it took to put the suspension in motion!

After I realised that, I started looking for shocks... I ended up just getting the standard Monroes from Advance Auto Parts. I knew that I'd have to disable the electronic suspension, and I still need to do that (can someone point me to the instructions on removing the actuator to keep the error from coming up on the display?)...

But the high points -- before I started, the distance from the center for each front wheel to the bottom of the fender was 15.5". When I got done, the distance is 16"... 1/2" raise just from struts = the first set of struts being entirely dead (you could run the shaft in and out with no resistance.) So, in driving it is actually a little bit more harsh, but just because the suspension is working again. Mroe importantly, the shudder through the steering column is gone, which was a concern because that meant that the entire front end was absorbing the shocks that the struts should have been.

The difficulties -- removing the sway bar end links. I had both wheels up in the air, so the sway bar wasn't loaded. This made it an absolute nightmare to remove the end links... when you go to take the end links off, make sure the opposite side wheel is on the ground, this will load the sway bar and keep the bolt from turning, allowing you to get the nut off.

Other than that, it's pretty straightforward. The Monroes have all the mounting points for all items mounted to the struts, so there are no loose ends.

As I said before, the ride is a little bit more harsh, but it's also Much morecompliant over irregularities in the road. Nice upgrade for $160 total.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
slingblade said:
What year did you do the change out and what was your part numbers?
Thanks
Oh yeah, sorry... car is a '93 STS, with 167k miles... virtually every part in the suspension is original... amazing condition for that many miles, but the struts were absolutely shot.

Monroe part number 71584, picked up locally at Advance Auto for $82.44, could have found it cheaper online and/or had them pricematch, but I didn't feel like putting in the effort.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,887 Posts
I'm sorry, but once again it doesn't make sense to me. The springs are what hold the car up, not the shocks or struts. So even with shocks and struts that are shot, your car will not touch the rubber stops unless you hit a really good sized bump. The only difference you will feel is a floatyness while you are driving compared to the controlled feel of good shocks and struts. Although it is true that a good shock or strut will try to extend and may extend the spring a little, giving the car a little more hight.


If you look at the dampering valve on the old shocks and struts there are two flat edges on it. You can take a large adjustable wrench to the valve and unscrew it. It helps to put the shock or strut in a vise. Also You might want to have a plastic bag and a cardboard box ready to put them into because they will be leaking hydrolic fluid. The hydrolic fluid will stain, but the smell is harder to get out than the stain. After that you just put each one in a plastic bag with plenty of electrical tape sealing it. Then plug them in and zip tie them off in an out of the way place. Once they're in you can clear the codes and drive code free again. :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yes, the springs hold the car up, but the springs sag when you put the car's weight on them. They also sag after a lot of miles. They sag even more after 167,000 miles! The front of my car is _very_ low (compare measurements, what are other people seeing as a measurement from the center of a front wheel the the bottom of the fender?) I think the sagging springs, combined with fully worthless struts are what gave me the harshness... what would be any other explanation? If it were riding on just the springs, there would be nothing but bounce... no harshness...

Anyway, it's much better!

Thanks for the info on the valves, I'll take a look at it now!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,543 Posts
tremor12 said:
Yes, the springs hold the car up, but the springs sag when you put the car's weight on them. They also sag after a lot of miles. They sag even more after 167,000 miles! The front of my car is _very_ low (compare measurements, what are other people seeing as a measurement from the center of a front wheel the the bottom of the fender?) I think the sagging springs, combined with fully worthless struts are what gave me the harshness... what would be any other explanation? If it were riding on just the springs, there would be nothing but bounce... no harshness...

Anyway, it's much better!

Thanks for the info on the valves, I'll take a look at it now!
Krashed is right about the valves. The ride will not change but the display should not indicate ride control issues unless the rear ride height sensors are bad as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
tremor12 said:
Oh yeah, sorry... car is a '93 STS, with 167k miles... virtually every part in the suspension is original... amazing condition for that many miles, but the struts were absolutely shot.

Monroe part number 71584, picked up locally at Advance Auto for $82.44, could have found it cheaper online and/or had them pricematch, but I didn't feel like putting in the effort.

I was looking for passive's from Monroe but couldn't find any to fit my 95 SLS, so I wrote emailed the tech people there. They sent a reply saying they didn't make anything that will fit my car...but I thought 93-97 were the same..I'm not high so am I just stupid?!?!?!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
As far as I know, the '93-97 cars are the same and the above Monroe part number works fine in my '93 STS. Actually, they work great. I've pt a couple hundred miles on them and they control the ride very well, with no "floating" sensation, you can feel the road surface, but it's not intrusive at all. A nice upgrade for those with worn struts.

I took the valves off and plugged them back in... no codes, no problems, thanks Krashed!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
I just checked the Monroe website again. The 93 shows that it comes with speed sensitive suspension or all electronic. The p/n's for 93 cross to the SSS system, but the 95's only list the all electronic system. Like I said I thought they would all be the same. I'd hate to take the front end apart and find out they don't work. Anyone got any insight?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,887 Posts
tremor12 said:
I took the valves off and plugged them back in... no codes, no problems, thanks Krashed!
You're welcome. Just make sure they're weatherproofed enough. Once they go out and display codes, you will have to figure out another way of avoiding the code, like buying OEM again, EEK.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
About this Discussion
9 Replies
5 Participants
Krashed989
Top