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· Registered
1999 Seville STS
47 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I picked up a 99 with 112k Saturday, seemed solid and like an idiot I got it THEN took it to the deal for an inspection.

Laundry list of stuff that came out to like 10k.

Couple of questions, oil pan leak, is it really a $3500 job?

Valve cover gasket, how hard are they to do on this?

ABS and Traction control lights are on, they said it is just a module and if I dont mind the light being on its not a big deal, they said about 1k for just the part.

I have always done my own car work and sounds like stuff I can do, just not sure on this car. Have not crawled under it myself yet just going by what the dealer said.

Off to do the plugs now doesnt look like the back ones will be to fun

· Registered
90 Eldo -SOLD-, 98 ETC -SOLD-, 86 XR4Ti Track Car, 07 Ranger
966 Posts
This is the year before they redesigned the half case so as long as it's only leaking from the oil pan, don't worry about it. If it's the half case seal, it's a bigger deal, but since the dealer says pan, clean it up and watch it.

Valve cover gaskets are easy but require you to remove a bunch of stuff on the tops of the engine to get them off. Remove wires, coil packs, for the rear, for the front you'll need a pulley puller kit (can borrow/rent) from advance/autozone for not much) to get the front waterpump pulley off the end of the camshaft. The front requires some complicated twisting/turning simultaneously to clear the camshaft and the timing chain sprockets but it's a real easy procedure and will slow down your oil leaks. Also helps to have the upper radiator hose off at a minimum to access the bottom side bolts.

PULL CODES to make sure it's TCC/ABS, our cars will illuminate that on the dash or throw a code if a number of things happen not related to the actual module/speed sensors in the wheel hubs including low battery voltage. To pull the code with the car on or off (i'd at least be in park so you don't drive off the road) with the ignition switch set to on, push the passenger temperature switch 'up' arrow button at the same time you press the 'OFF' button. Hold for 5 seconds, all the lights will light up and then on your dash it will start scrolling all the codes recorded in the car, write them all down, come back to the board in the Northstar Technical forum and check the sticky link at the top to get the meanings of codes. Alternatively buy a set of Factory Service Manuals and it will not only tell you what the code means, but the affected system, the circuitry, and how to diagnose and repair the failure.

RockAuto, Lindsay Cadillac (supporting dealer who advertises, see right side of page) are going to be your best friend for OEM / ACDelco reman parts, Autozone and Advance will be your next best bet. Stay away from buying dealer parts, yes most of it is brand new GM parts, but when it costs 4-10x an aftermarket or reman and will do most of the job you'll stop overpaying for parts, and labor.

At 112k I'd also be leery of your suspension, if it's OEM, most don't last past 120-140k and that's pushing it unless it was highway driven it's whole life, then expect more service life. The cost of replacement with OEM parts is extreme so you may want to start budgeting for aftermarket solutions, Arnott, StrutMaster, Autozone or Advance sells another brand I can't remember. Also, inspect your brake rotors and pads for life, and get ready for them too. Finally while you're under your car check your half shafts in the front. If the boots are torn you're going to need to replace them as they will snap the spiders if they stay un-lubricated for very long (ask me how I know)
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