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Discussion Starter #1
Just a quick check. With the car on a lift, if I grab the wheel, give it a deliberate nudge, and find that it has some play, I've gotta wheel bearing that's starting to go, right? Anything else I should look at replacing? Anything I'm missing? Is alls I need to order is the wheel bearing?

Don't know if they'd take care of this under warranty, but just wanted to see what I'm looking at. Thanks.
 

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2006 CTS-V Infared, 2013ATS, 2016 ATSV
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On a lift, if you grab top and bottom and wheel moves, good chance it is a wheel bearing. If you grab front and back and it moves, it could be tie rod end.
Just had those go on my CTS, they replaced them under warrenty. If things are moving, look first to see where the play is coming from.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ah, bueno info. And quick too. Gratz to you.

Gotta check again, but I think it was both front/back and top/bottom. Thing is, I'm pretty sure the tie rod was replaced with a new piece. Anything else that could contribute to play from front/back? Thanks again.
 

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Sedan de Ville, CTS
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That is why your car has 4 wheels. If one falls off, you have three more to go.

Kind of like half of a cat.
 

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2018 CT6E, old: 2014 XTS Vsport, 2005 CTS-V, 2004 CTS-V.
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If you hit something and your wheel shows proof your dealer might have a problem. I have an extra front bearing from an 05 and walk you through changing it. Email or pm me for details.

Norm
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wheels are fine. The dealer actually did do work on the other side (driver's), but there shouldn't be any cause for them to deny warranty work on the passenger side (although, if they want to, obviously, they can).

I have a host of other warranty problems, so I figure if the problem is one that I can diagnose and fix myself, it's just easier to do without the dealer hassle. And also cuz I was gonna put on my crossed drilled rotors anyway, so with the rotors off, that would be the time to switch out the bearings. But now that Luke's got UUC mixing up some two-piece floating magic, hmmmm, dunno, gonna have to hold off on that for now. Gotta get me some two-piecers, along with the stainless steel brake and clutch lines. Patiently waiting and twiddling my tweedle-thumbs.

Which bearings do you have? Or rather, are the bearings interchangeable from side to side or are they specific to each corner? The one in question for me is the front passenger side.

I'll definitely see what the techs think when I bring it in for other issues, but, again, just wanted know what I might be looking at. See if I was missing anything. Thanks.
 

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2018 CT6E, old: 2014 XTS Vsport, 2005 CTS-V, 2004 CTS-V.
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2,709 Posts
Wheels are fine. The dealer actually did do work on the other side (driver's), but there shouldn't be any cause for them to deny warranty work on the passenger side (although, if they want to, obviously, they can).

I have a host of other warranty problems, so I figure if the problem is one that I can diagnose and fix myself, it's just easier to do without the dealer hassle. And also cuz I was gonna put on my crossed drilled rotors anyway, so with the rotors off, that would be the time to switch out the bearings. But now that Luke's got UUC mixing up some two-piece floating magic, hmmmm, dunno, gonna have to hold off on that for now. Gotta get me some two-piecers, along with the stainless steel brake and clutch lines. Patiently waiting and twiddling my tweedle-thumbs.

Which bearings do you have? Or rather, are the bearings interchangeable from side to side or are they specific to each corner? The one in question for me is the front passenger side.

I'll definitely see what the techs think when I bring it in for other issues, but, again, just wanted know what I might be looking at. See if I was missing anything. Thanks.
Urby, I can do a write up later.

Front hub quick removal:

T-27 six point torqs bit to remove the rotor, 15mm deep to loosen and or move sway bar endlinks, and 18mm sock or ratcheting wrench as the 3 hub bolts are loc-tited on. Best to jack stand both sides or have the front end off the ground. This will give access hub bolts as you'll have turn the wheel lock to lock. Retorque to Luke's pdf specs. Takes more time to suspend the car, remove and reinstall 12 lug nuts. :)

Front hubs are interchangeable side to side as are the rears.

Thanks,
Norm
 
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